I have a 2004 (Gen 1) hayabusa that I have just received from my grandfather. It has 1187 miles on it and he was the only owner. Problem is, it’s been sitting for a very long time. I knew there would be a couple of issues no doubt because of how long it’s been sitting. But I didn’t think it would go so far. Basically it needed a new battery, no prob, then it wouldnt prime, easy install of a fuel pump fixed that issue, well now it would prime but no fuel in the cylinders, new injectors for like $40 and this is where we are now. I suspected the Power Commander 3 to be the culprit so I plugged the injectors to the original harness and still no start so I’m at a loss and didn’t know if anyone could enlighten me since I’m new to a Busa. Also the clutch hydraulics are not bled as well as front brakes just in case that may have something to do w it. If anyone could help it would be much appreciated.
Welcome...
Whew, sometimes a gift horse can be a real problem and you've inherited one...
There are a whole list of things to look for with a bike that has sat for that long with low miles...
It will need pretty much one of everything....probably tires, chain, brake service for certain, all fluids changed out.
How does the inside of the tank look? Even a new filter will clog quickly if the tank has crud in it...
Are the injectors spraying? You will need to test the fuel pressure.
Whew, sometimes a gift horse can be a real problem and you've inherited one...
There are a whole list of things to look for with a bike that has sat for that long with low miles...
It will need pretty much one of everything....probably tires, chain, brake service for certain, all fluids changed out.
How does the inside of the tank look? Even a new filter will clog quickly if the tank has crud in it...
Are the injectors spraying? You will need to test the fuel pressure.
So the oem tank was immediately taken off to fit a timber glass flat tank for land speed racing so the tank is pretty much flawless and rust less and the fuel filter is brand new. The injectors are not spraying as far as I’m aware and I believe it’s either a ground issue or the engine draws so much power when trying to start that the injectors don’t have enough power.
No offense, but I would not trust injectors that cost $40 dollars new, specially on a built motor. Are you sure this bike doesn’t have another battery somewhere and was converted to a 24v system?
Kiwi Rider
Registered
How about the basics?
Compression all good in all 4 cylinders?
Nice fat blue spark at the plugs?
Have you tried spraying engine start fluid, or fuel (in a pressure spray bottle) into the intake while cranking the engine? Just to see if it will fire up all?
Are the injectors OEM or aftermarket?
Have you checked for injector pulse at each injector connector plug with a “noid light?”
Pictured below is the noid light for testing injector pulse at the connector
Also…. Hook up a jump pack to assist the battery with lots of cranking amps when trying to start the bike, constant cranking will drain the battery fast and if the voltage drops too low, the plugs may foul and it will be impossible to start …..
Compression all good in all 4 cylinders?
Nice fat blue spark at the plugs?
Have you tried spraying engine start fluid, or fuel (in a pressure spray bottle) into the intake while cranking the engine? Just to see if it will fire up all?
Are the injectors OEM or aftermarket?
Have you checked for injector pulse at each injector connector plug with a “noid light?”
Pictured below is the noid light for testing injector pulse at the connector
Also…. Hook up a jump pack to assist the battery with lots of cranking amps when trying to start the bike, constant cranking will drain the battery fast and if the voltage drops too low, the plugs may foul and it will be impossible to start …..
Compression is still super strong, plugs are sparking and it did run off of some starting fluid but only for a few seconds, as far as a mood light I don’t have one, any idea how much they are and how it works? Thx
As far as I’m aware no, the battery I pulled was the oem one he ran and it didn’t have any issues back then. And you’re probably right about the injectors but even the stock ones acted the same way.
Kiwi Rider
Registered
Ok… so far so good, the NOID light has two pins and it plugs into the injector connector on the harness, it has an LED light that blinks as you crank the engine over with the starter motor…. IF there is a pulse to the injector it will blink, no pulse no blink.
Noid lights are fairly cheap, maybe 20 bucks, should be able to get one from any good automotive tools suppliers.
Hayabusa Wannabe
Registered
Once I get it all back together I’d be happy to send it, it’s pretty basic looking to be honest but I love the gen1 look
Ok awesome, that’s super helpful, I’ll go see if I can grab one at harbor freight later today. If the injectors don’t pulse what would that be an issue with?
Kiwi Rider
Registered
If no pulse, the wiring needs to be checked for continuity from the connector all the way back to the ECU.
If there is continuity the next test is to change the ECU with another that is known to be working fine.
It’s just a process of elimination, step by step. But correct testing procedure is crucial to finding faults. And just think your way thru it systematically.
If you do have injectors pulse, remove the injector from the rail and connect it up, then crank the engine and see if it sprays fuel, if not try another injector known to be working.
Ok cool I’ll definitely try that, also wanted to mention that the clutch slave cylinder is off the bike right now because I needed to change a couple of gaskets in it. I know that most Suzukis require the clutch to be pulled in to start the bike. Any chance that since there’s no pressure from the clutch that there may be a reason that it won’t start? Just a curious thought.
If the bike turns over the switch is working....
I know, I’m saying does the clutch itself have to actually have pressure on it to start the bike. I was thinking there might be a failsafe if not.
No the switch is electric and is separate from the actual hydraulic mechanism.
There are a couple other safety switches on the bike, a tip over switch (which if at fault will allow the bike to turn over but will not start) and a side stand switch (which if at fault won't allow the bike to turn over at all)
Ok cool just making sure that wasn’t my problem
Kiwi Rider
Registered
Couldn’t have said it better myself . . .
202mphbusa
Registered
hey I just bought a set of these HAHAHAHAH
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