2000 rm250

Mason357

Registered
I got a RM250 in a trade. When I got there the guy started an rode it around it ran fine. Went out today to ride it for the first time and I can't get it to start for anything. Won't kick start or push start can't even get it to sputter. Has fuel (he said mixed 32-1) getting spark,fuel,good compression etc. Anyone got any ideas why it ran fine yesterday and won't even try today?
 
The last time I saw a RM250 was back in 1973, I think. That bike was fast. What about the kill switch? Could it be bad, dirty? I don't know what's on a 2000 model. I assume that to start it, it must be in neutral, and holding in the clutch.
 
Kill switch disconnected no clutch safety switch. I'm really not sure about being able to push start I think I'm too light cause when I try no matter what gear the wheel just locks up but, engine is not locked. Does anyone know if these have a decompression system I might just not have the weight behind me to get a good kick (have heard 2 smokers need a heavy kick to start).
 
No compression release, check air filter to see if its really dirty, also try to get good full kicks on it.
 
I would think that 2nd gear or higher would turn the wheel even if you are light. Make sure you're going fast enough or try on a downhill.
 
Air filter cleaned and oiled new plug still nothing. Also the wheel locks downhill,dirt or asphalt.
 
Check your carb. Temperature plays a bigger role on a carb bike. double check the choke then drop the fuel bowl and have a look. It doesn't take much dirt to clog a #35 pilot. It does take a rich mixture to start. Is the air filter still in or the air filter box open? You would be suprised how much that will affect things.
 
Tried with filter on and off... Gonna check for spark again and change all fluids do basic maintenance clean carb etc. I have noticed some connections on carb. There is a small fitting that look like a hose is supposed go I have it plugged as I do not know where it goes and if not plugged gas leaks out. It is at bottom of the float bowl facing the rear of the bike. The other 2 are at the top of the carb just below where the throttle cable goes in one on the left and one on the right. The one on the left has a hose attached but, not connected to anything on the other end of the hose. Maybe a vent line?


Also It doesn't look to have been properly maintained. The clutch no matter how much I adjust the cable will not fully disengage as in gear clutch pulled all the way in the rear wheel is still partiality connected to the engine. The chain has about 5" of play looks like one of the radiators has a small leak and the expansion chamber has a small crack. I don't know if this is correct or improperly adjusted but, the kick starter only makes the engine go through 2 or 3 compression strokes. When he had it running it ran great. Also if it might have anything to do with it such as something getting knocked off or loose. I brought it home in a car so I removed the fork/wheel assembly and rear fender/seat so it would fit. So it was on it's side for about 1 1/2 hrs before I unloaded it then sit all night upright but, with the forks/wheel off.

When I try to start I turn the fuel petcock on pull up the choke and kick it over trying different throttle positions and kicking with just leg to standing on the other peg or being off the bike and putting all my weight in the kick. I get nothing engine turns but, not even a pop or sputter...

Sorry if I'm sounding dumb but I've only ridden a dirt bike once and it was a 4 stroke. I have 0 experience with 2 smokers other than the 73 DT-250 I got in cali but, never got a chance to get points before I had to come back to LA so it's still at the wolf rescue in cali I work for not running......

Think I'll go get a knee replacement now...
 
tighten that float bowl drain screw and it should stop leaking. float height is 16mm. I would open the carb up and take a look.
 
I don'' think it's the float drain as there is nothing to tighten it and it's barbed at the and like a hose connection as seen in pic. Also pics of the ones at the top of the carb. The hose on the one is not connected to anything.

SANY0024.jpg


SANY0025.jpg


SANY0026.jpg
 
OK, start from scratch here. 2 stroke dirt bikes are about the simplest form of internal combustion engine on the planet. They only need 3 things to run, spark, fuel, and compression.
First off, are you SURE it has good spark? A bright blue/white crack when you have the plug grounded against the case and kick it over?
Next, that carburator needs to come completely off of the bike, be taken apart (completely) and thoroughly cleaned with spray carb cleaner. Check the float level. Someone else stated 16mm which sounds ball park to me. Set it with the carb body at an angle so as not to compress the spring on the float needle. The reason I say to set the float is because that hose nipple on the bottom of the float bowl is the bowl vent line. On some newer carbs (4 strokes in particular) it is the bowl drain, but on most all 2 strokes, it is just a vent and the drain is the 17mm bolt in the bottom of the float bowl. Since gas is running out of the bowl vent hose, it indicates to me that the float is either set too high or is hung open by some grit stuck in the needle/seat assembly. Pay special attention that the pilot and main jets are perfectly clean and unobstructed. It doesn't take much to block a 42 or 45 pilot jet. And even partially blocked, it can make it next to impossible to kick start.
Since your saying it is hard to bump start in second gear I'm presuming it has at least fair compression, so make sure it has the good spark, and the carburator is clean and set right (the other hose nipples are also 1/8" vent lines, run lines from all of them out the bottom in front of the swing arm pivot at equal lengths), then see if it will start.
As for the clutch dragging, the plates are warped, and/or the clutch basket is notched.

Do all this and let me know what your results are. In the meantime, here is your dirt bike version of this sight times 10.. ThumperTalk. Take yourself down the page to the Suzuki 2 stroke section. I'm Olhillbilly on the forum, you'll see me around.
 
Thanks bro I'll try all that tomorrow and let everyone know how it goes. As far as the guy I got it from said it's cold natured and to set choke,open the throttle a bit and kick it hard.
 
Thanks bro I'll try all that tomorrow and let everyone know how it goes. As far as the guy I got it from said it's cold natured and to set choke,open the throttle a bit and kick it hard.

Yeah, they can be a bit cold natured, but once you get everything right, even stone cold, they fire up by the third kick. They are also a lot rougher on your leg than a comp released 4 stroke. My KX-F will blow 100psi with the auto de-compressor (top of the manual spec). KDX 200 (with a shaved head and a "few" other mods) will blow 165psi. Had a YZ250 a few years back that was more like 180psi. You learn real quick to wear your MX boots when your kicking a 2 stroke.:laugh:
 
sounds like you went through carb and checked for spark... but if was running and then wouldent run the next day i dont think it would be a carb issue...check your reeds you could of snaped one and if so that would couse your condition... i hade a few rms and the case reed motor for some reason would eat reeds...
 
Yeah, they can be a bit cold natured, but once you get everything right, even stone cold, they fire up by the third kick. They are also a lot rougher on your leg than a comp released 4 stroke. My KX-F will blow 100psi with the auto de-compressor (top of the manual spec). KDX 200 (with a shaved head and a "few" other mods) will blow 165psi. Had a YZ250 a few years back that was more like 180psi. You learn real quick to wear your MX boots when your kicking a 2 stroke.:laugh:


Don't know why they don't put comp release and oil tanks/pump on 2 smokers anymore. My 73 yammie dt-250 has auto decompression and the auto oil/gas mix (It is a dual-sport though) .
 
Here's what I did today....Took off and cleaned carb with carb&choke spray cleaner,cleaned all jets/passageways with jet cleaning rods, set float, cleaned/dried/oiled air filter, cleaned plug, cut about 1/4 in off the ends of the plug wire and screwed wire back in coil/plug connector, replaced m/f spade connector for coil + as they were corroded, replaced kill switch, put hoses on all 3 vents on the carb in the pics above routed under bike, sprayed carb cleaner/wd-40 in plug hole and intake while kicking over to try and clean/lube reeds, adjusted chain ( the idiot that adjusted it before had L side at 3 1/2 and R at 2!!!!!!!) set carb air/fuel (the brass screw above the float bowl vent nipple in the first pic??) 1 1/2 turns out idle 4 or 5 turns out, turned fuel on, pulled choke up, turned ignition switch on, tried kicking over and push starting......

Still nothing.... Is how I set the carb the right initial setting? How do I know if the reeds are bad? Can I use starting fluid (ether) in a 2 stroke? Anymore advice on what I can do? I still don't know if I'm giving it a good enough kick cause I don't have a lot of weight behind me and when I try too push start most of the time the wheel just locks up and I can't try 3rd gear as like posted above the clutch doesn't fully disengage.
 
Back
Top