1441 secondary battery? Where

I had a 24 volt starting system in my 1397 and it was in the very back of the rear under hump storage. It fit way in the back and just had to be held in place. Worked perfectly. First time starting it up 24 volts is an eye opener. It'll start every time.

As far as size it could be fairly small. Can be smaller than stock as you don't need much to crank the bike over at 24 volts
 
I had a 24 volt starting system in my 1397 and it was in the very back of the rear under hump storage. It fit way in the back and just had to be held in place. Worked perfectly. First time starting it up 24 volts is an eye opener. It'll start every time.

As far as size it could be fairly small. Can be smaller than stock as you don't need much to crank the bike over at 24 volts
Do u have a link to that
 
I own a 1441cc 05 Busa for drag racing and I currently use the bike's standard 12V factory starter circuit setup using a 720CA lithium battery without any problems (hot or cold engine). I start my bike by using a single Full Spectrum Power 720CA lithium battery. This battery has about the same dimensions as a Hayabusa's OEM lead acid battery. Note that few years ago, before 720CA batteries were available, I had an Antigravity YT12BS-16 480CA lithium battery, but had starting issues at times. When the engine was hot from a previous run, I sometimes had to boost the 480CA with Anitgravity's Micro-Start XP-3 200CA Start Battery to get the bike started. My routine went this way: When I was next in line to run and with engine off but already hot, I would have to take my hand-sized 200CA boost battery out of my drag race suit pocket and plug it into the a female connector that was wired into the 480CA battery (like how you would set up a battery maintainer for easy plug in charging). The female connector was accessible just outside my seat. This set up has always worked too. Now, with very powerful 12V batteries available, I obviously prefer the extra power of the 720CA Full Spectrum battery, which by the way, has a boost button that I have never had to use--no 24V starting circuit, no jumping issues at the staring line, just start the bike up.
 
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Run down?
The problem I have found with Lith batteries is when I am doing lots of key on, don't start,,,,, spend 2-5 min with key on, switch off
repeat while sending maps or wiring something
out of no where BAM battery goes from fine to dead in like 30 seconds
Once I thought my standalone had died I was workingon a wiring harness, when all of a sudden the fuel pump wasn't cycling and the ECU would not connect to laptop
 
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