'05 Idle Screw Fix

gward1

gward1

Registered
Had my '05 Busa for five months now. Love the bike, hate the idle screw. Yes, it keeps backing down to 800 rpm's regardless of what the shop has tried to do for a fix. They have stretched the tension spring, used two types of locktite and tried several other manuevers without success. We set the idle at 1200 rpm's and in less than 200 miles, it's back down to 800 and stalling at the lights. Finally called Suzuki of America customer service and received a huge runaround. They said, "NO ONE HAS EVER REPORTED THIS TO US IN THE PAST, NEITHER SERVICE TECHS NOR CUSTOMERS!" I find this very hard to swallow since there are hundreds of postings on this site concerning the idle screw/low rpm/stalling issue. Two questions... Is there a real fix for this problem other than having to adjust the idle every two hundred miles? And, can we register enough complaints with Suzuki for them to come up with a mod? Since it is a new bike with less than 5000 miles, I am frustrated with having to adjust the idle screw so much. Help!
 
Have they also replaced, rather than just stretch your existing tension spring? I bumped my idle up to 1200 RPM at day one and at 1,000 miles later, she's still there....
 
I've had to adjust mine twice in 9000 miles. Same thing though, drops to 800 and stalls at every stop.
 
It's in the shop right now. Just got a call saying they were replacing the whole idle screw assembly including the spring. Hope this works. This is my 11th Japanese bike, and by far the best one to ride. Thank you guys for all your suggestions. This site has been great to use for a reference and has answered many of my questions.



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I had to adjust the idle at about 3700 miles because it dropped below 1000 RMP. 400 miles later, it's still at 1150 RPM.
 
I just had to adjust my idle and it really helped with the fuzzy throttle response I was getting. 560 miles on the bike. The spring appears to be pretty stout but, I wonder if you could put a rubber lock nut, or just a regular nut, on the idle adjuster and lock it down instead of holding it with a spring. If mine keeps slipping, I will investigate fixing it in that manner.
 
My '05 does it too.....I just deal with it...I spend too much time enjoying the ride to worry about a silly little stall here and there.
smile.gif
 
I used JB Weld and figure that should last a lifetime. Just slap a big gob on there and ride like no tomorrow!
laugh.gif
 
Same Thing.....the day I got mine the idle was at 1200, 4 days later, it was stalling alot. I adjusted it, locktite, and it still does it like every 75-100 miles. I now have 900 miles on the bike and have adjusted it 4-5 times.:(
 
I had the same problem with my 05'. Removed the screw and noticed it was wearing uneven due to the repeated banging against the throttle body stop. I filed the end of the screw so it was flat, reinstalled it and the proble went away.
Brad
 
Brad,
Thanks for the suggestion. This sounds very close to what I have been experiencing. Suzuki of America (customer service) called last night and finally admitted they were having a problem with the throttle screw threads wearing quickly and therefore not holding like it should. They are replacing the whole piece right now. Hope to have my bike back on the road by the weekend. Driving four wheels to work everyday sucks! Thanks again for your help.
 
I just bought my first busa (01) w 6000 mi weeks ago and noticed that the idle was low "800" so I adjusted it to 1150ish hot fan on. Within 100 miles I noticed it dropped to 1000 so I bumped it to 1150 again and used touch up paint on the threads that were exposed as a po-mans locktite..guess what? 100 more miles and it's down to 1000!!!
Here is what I found and believe to be the cause of the problem and the cure..
The spring clutches and wads up which stores torsional energy (torque)and until its ends slip or skip on unmoveable surfaces the spring will store this energy. The moveable surfaces (the screw) move with vibration as path of least resistance instead of the spring ends skipping....busa owner threads 1/4 turn of energy into the spring and the spring with the help of vibration and compression energy overcomes the friction of the threads that are pitched to relax and dials that 1/4 turn right back...
Here's the fix. Set your idle speed, hold the screw firm and rotate the spring counter clockwise a 1/4 turn or so with needle nose pliers by grabbing the spring right below the screw head..now you have installed torsional energy into the spring that wants to turn the screw in but can't.
I've not had any change in idle for 600 mi now.
By the way my friends zx12r did the same stuff and his doesn't change anymore either.:)
 
(carbusa68 @ July 14 2005 said:
I just bought my first busa (01) w 6000 mi weeks ago and noticed that the idle was low "800" so I adjusted it to 1150ish hot fan on. Within 100 miles I noticed it dropped to 1000 so I bumped it to 1150 again and used touch up paint on the threads that were exposed as a po-mans locktite..guess what? 100 more miles and it's down to 1000!!!
Here is what I found and believe to be the cause of the problem and the cure..
The spring clutches and wads up which stores torsional energy (torque)and until its ends slip or skip on unmoveable surfaces the spring will store this energy. The moveable surfaces (the screw) move with vibration as path of least resistance instead of the spring ends skipping....busa owner threads 1/4 turn of energy into the spring and the spring with the help of vibration and compression energy overcomes the friction of the threads that are pitched to relax and dials that 1/4 turn right back...
Here's the fix. Set your idle speed, hold the screw firm and rotate the spring counter clockwise a 1/4 turn or so with needle nose pliers by grabbing the spring right below the screw head..now you have installed torsional energy into the spring that wants to turn the screw in but can't.
I've not had any change in idle for 600 mi now.
By the way my friends zx12r did the same stuff and his doesn't change anymore either.:)
Click to expand...
I'll have to try that one next...thanks.
 
Do you think it would work to put washers on both ends of the spring so it doesn't ride directly against the idle screw or the housing? Washers might allow the spring to do whatever it wants while not upsetting the idle screw. Since the spring is only there to apply unidirectional force to the screw (straight out), the washers might isolate it enough to do it's job. Worth a try! Thanks for the idea.
 
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