`02 Dyno Chart

My dyno print out looked just the one you posted with the ragged looking line for the power curve. (My hp numbers were a lot lower than yours, only 147 with only a PCIII and a tre.) The man who ran it has been drag racing and tuning for quite some time and so I'm inclined to take his word. He said that was caused by a bad chain and it could easily cost me as much as 2 hp. I just changed the chain, sure enough it is in terrible shape. Don't mean to sound like a wise guy but how is your chain?
 
My dyno print out looked just the one you posted with the ragged looking line for the power curve. (My hp numbers were a lot lower than yours, only 147 with only a PCIII and a tre.) The man who ran it has been drag racing and tuning for quite some time and so I'm inclined to take his word.  He said that was caused by a bad chain and it could easily cost me as much as 2 hp.  I just changed the chain, sure enough it is in terrible shape.  Don't mean to sound like a wise guy but how is your chain?[/QUOTE]
The jagged power lines can be "smoothed" in the WinPEP7 software when viewing the dyno data. I smoothed the lines in the chart below for your information (as opposed to the unsmoothed, jagged lines in the chart above). A chain in poor condition can certainly have a negative impact upon dyno measurements. I use an EK 530DR chain (without O-rings) and keep it well lubricated. It was too loose during these dyno runs which also hurts power measurements.

WarBaby please post your A/F chart...[/QUOTE]
Here it is...

dyno_af.jpg

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I’ve read in several places people talking about the Busa ram air not being effective.
The most common observation seems to be that the seal where the two-piece intake runner joins passing through the frame is total crap.
This leads to any possible air pressure build-up bleeding out the gaps before the air box has a chance to pressurize.

Improving the seal is supposed to show some improvement (however you wont see it on a dyno).

I think fastsjonny did a write-up of it on his site. www.fastsjonny.tk/

Looking at the A/F on WarBaby's chart, the extra fuel as the RPM's increase would certainly work with extra air for a few extra HP.


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Looking at the A/F on WarBaby's chart, the extra fuel as the RPM's increase would certainly work with extra air for a few extra HP.[/QUOTE]
A keen observation Rosco!
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Either way Phantom's got a point about the intake location, I think its a case of ours looks better and Kawi's probally works better.

Oh well, you cant have it all.
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I'll still take the Busa's looks over the 12 for the price of a coupple of top end HP
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oh yeah the ram air has to be in the wrong place because god knows suzuki wouldnt test that in a wind tunnel dam phanny your so smart hell your my hereo!!!!
 
Nice power curve and A/f Looks good.Looks like by the last hp run you leaned it out a little up top (90-140 mph) & it gained a few more.
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War,
What were the standard HP/Torque readings with the BDE StreetSmart system(Full exhaust,small air box, PC3 w/map) you were selling?
 
What were the standard HP/Torque readings with the BDE StreetSmart system(Full exhaust,small air box, PC3 w/map) you were selling?[/QUOTE]
That's what the red and green dyno runs above show (red = without air filter, green = with air filter) both on Shell 87 pump gas.
 
What were the standard HP/Torque readings with the BDE StreetSmart system(Full exhaust,small air box, PC3 w/map) you were selling?
That's what the red and green dyno runs above show (red = without air filter, green = with air filter) both on Shell 87 pump gas.[/QUOTE]
Sorry Tom,
I didn't understand the original dyno.
Thanks for clearing that up Bro
 
what are you running for gearing?[/QUOTE]
Mine is 16/40 = 2.5:1 final ratio (Stock 17/40 = 2.35:1 final ratio)
 
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