Chain breaker

[Schirm94M]

I have been reading some older posts about what chain breaker to buy. Most of these posts are over 10 years old, so I am wondering if anything has changed, or if what was recommended back then still holds true today?

[sixpack577]

I have been reading some older posts about what chain breaker to buy. Most of these posts are over 10 years old, so I am wondering if anything has changed, or if what was recommended back then still holds true today?

Motion-Pro makes good ones.
And when you're taking off a chain, save yourself the hassle of pressing apart the old master link, just use a side grinder and cut through it, it'll be done in 30 seconds.
And of course always use the press tool to flare the pins on the new master link.

[Schirm94M]

Thanks for the suggestions. This will be the first time doing a chain and sprocket change. Apart from the chain breaker and sockets, anything I need to make the job easier?

[sixpack577]

Thanks for the suggestions. This will be the first time doing a chain and sprocket change. Apart from the chain breaker and sockets, anything I need to make the job easier?

An impact wrench can help get the front sprocket nut off, but a long breaker-bar with a pipe on it for leverage works fine.
With a pipe/breaker-bar I sit on the bike on the kickstand, and hold the rear brake with my right foot.
Never put the transmission in gear!
Always do this in neutral!
Otherwise you risk bending a shift fork.
Also, an overtightened chain not only wears parts faster, but it limits the rear suspension travel, and the front and rear suspension work together and directly effect one another.
So a tight chain will wreck you're handling...which can wreck you.
Adjust the chain with You the rider Sitting on it.
Snug and then torque the sprocket nuts in a star pattern, never one next to the other.
Lube the axle, white lithium or marine grease works fine.
Torque the front sprocket and axle nut.

[CBXRider]

When alone, how is this done?

“Adjust the chain with You the rider Sitting on it.”

[Mythos]

The ideal chain tension can be had by bottoming out the rear suspension with ratchet straps, then adjusting the chain tight. I've never bothered to do that, I just go with what the book recommends. There is a margin of error. I always heard to let the chain be a little looser rather than tighter but if yu really need to know the chain tension at maximum travel of the swing arm, I guess the ratchet straps thing would do it.

[sixpack577]

When alone, how is this done?

“Adjust the chain with You the rider Sitting on it.”

Adjust, get up and sit on it, reach down and check the slack, and repeat until correct.
I have seen alot of people adjust the slack and it is correct...without anyone sitting on it, then they get on it and ride, not realizing how much tighter the chain now is from their body weight compressing the suspension more.

[Schirm94M]

I'm sure once I get to chain adjustments, I will be asking a lot of questions. Right now I am currently getting my butt kicked trying to get the new oil filter on. This has to be the hardest bike to get the oil filter to line up correctly. I have been trying for the past 20 minutes.

[Bumblebee]

Adjust, get up and sit on it, reach down and check the slack, and repeat until correct.
I have seen alot of people adjust the slack and it is correct...without anyone sitting on it, then they get on it and ride, not realizing how much tighter the chain now is from their body weight compressing the suspension more.

The last time I adjusted a chain (and it was a while ago) I borrowed a neighbor...he got a thrill of sitting on my bike (the GSXR) and I got a person to play "weight dummy."

I've always checked the tension of the chain on the Bumblebee and it's perfect even after a few years....(good chain).

[Schirm94M]

So i have been reading the sticky about changing the drive chain, and it mentions having to buy a master link. I bought the OEM chain and sprocket kit, do I also need to buy a master link or is it included?

[pashnit]

Most of these posts are over 10 years old, so I am wondering if anything has changed, or if what was recommended back then still holds true today?

Nothing has changed. Still got the same chain tool from 10 years ago. Although I'd agree with just cutting the chain off with a grinder. So much easier than using the tool to grind the pin down, then pushing it out to break the chain.

Just did mine a few weeks ago. I replace the front/rear & chain about every 30,000 miles.

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/motion-pro-chain-breaker-riveting-tool-kit?rrec=true&sku_id=173794

[pashnit]

[pashnit]

[pashnit]

[sixpack577]

So i have been reading the sticky about changing the drive chain, and it mentions having to buy a master link. I bought the OEM chain and sprocket kit, do I also need to buy a master link or is it included?

It should be in the box

[pashnit]

This comes with the new chain

[Schirm94M]

This comes with the new chain

View attachment 1697011

So I attempted to put my new chain on, and I'm pretty sure I did something wrong. As you can see in the picture it looks nothing like what my old chain looked like or what your pictures show. Not really sure what I did wrong, but I guess I will buy some new rivets and try again.

[sixpack577]

So I attempted to put my new chain on, and I'm pretty sure I did something wrong. As you can see in the picture it looks nothing like what my old chain looked like or what your pictures show. Not really sure what I did wrong, but I guess I will buy some new rivets and try again.

View attachment 1697473

Did you flare the rivots?
They will be between
.210" -.230" average, depending on the brand, but should be roughly the same size as the rest of the pins.
See post#2 above

[sixpack577]

Did you have the flat link completely seated aginst the link, with the 2 pins sticking through?
If not, that is your problem.
If you did, then you didn't flare the pins enough.

[Schirm94M]

I had a really hard time getting it to seat, so I am sure that is where I went wrong. So now I have to source two new rivets.