Chain breaker
- Thread starter Schirm94M
- Start date
pashnit
Donating Member
You missed a step. You have to compress the master link plate onto the pins.
Look closely at the below picture, the chain tool is compressing the plate together onto the pins.
Once the pins protrude, then you can use the adapter to flare the ends of the pins on the chain link.
Btw, I would not ride your bike with the chain link looking like that in your pic above - looks like the plate is going to fall off.
You just need a new master-link for a 530 chain(or a 525 or 520, whatever you bought).
You should be able to get one at a dealer or Cyclegear if you have either close by.
Yes, that will work...and I have a Goldwing too, and yes, one less thing to deal with on it, lol
oh come, some safety wire through it and it'll get you home...
lol...good thing he's already at home
pashnit
Donating Member
Yep, I've seen them safety wired before too
pashnit
Donating Member
Terry , if one link busted like you see in the pic, another one could bust. It was only later, that I thought about what I was looking at.
I bought my 2002 TL1000R with 15K on it. I'm guessing that was the original chain from 2002. It was likely 20 years old.
Soon as I got it, I started touring on it. Gotta admit I never considered a chain link breaking as even a possibility. I broke a chain on my ZX-11D 25 years ago (right before I bought the first busa) I was newly married & really broke and put on a cheapy chain. The chain on the ZX-11D broke pulling away from a stoplight. One of the scariest things that's every happened to me on a bike, the mere thought of breaking the engine casing with the chain sucked up into the front sprocket- pure horror. Ever since I've always run high-tensile strength chains & regularly change out chain & sprocket sets about every ~30K.Btw, My last shaft drive bike was my '83 Yamaha Venture.
Mythos
Registered
Yes, you didn't mushroom the rivets.
He didn't flare the pins at all by that photo.
You can buy a new master like but from that picture, you never touched the master link that came with the chain.
IDK what chain tool you're using. All I can say is the heavy duty one I used required a lot of force. I stripped the threads the last time I used it. I probably need a new one for next time I rivet a chain. Consider bringing the bike to a shop where they can rivet those pins as they should. That should be really cheap at this point. I don't see why you need a new master link, you barely touched the one you have. Without looking at it, I'd suspect there's something wrong with your chain tool. If you cranked that f-er down and it didn't mushroom your pins, it's wrong. It doesn't even look like it pressed the plates together.
It's nothing to play with. You can try it again if you think you were pussy footing the chain tool otherwise bring it to a trusted shop.
Schirm94M
Registered
I flared them out enough that they won't go through the links. I was using the Jumbo chain breaker kit, I gave it a lot of force, so they definitely deformed in the links.
mabupa
Donating Member
I’ve done some sketchy things in my life but, I don’t know if I would have the courage to ride home on that chain. Lol
Mythos
Registered
If the pins haven't protruded from the side plate (which they haven't by the photo) you didn't flare anything. It's been a while since I put a new chain on but seems to me you need to press the side plates of the chain together so the pins protrude. Then you flare the pins You can't flare the pins if the heads are still in the plate.
It sucks the org is shutting down because we'd get you through this. I've put on 3 or 4 chains in my life. You press the side plates together and then you can rivet because the pins ae sticking out past the outer plate. Looks to me like you never pressed the plates together. You can't rivet if the head of the pin isn't sticking out of the plate.
Mythos
Registered
Any luck with riveting the master link? As I recall, you use the chain tool with pressing dies to press the master link plates together until the depth matches that of the factory riveted links. Use a calipers to measure the link depth. The pins should be protruding if the plates of the master link are properly pressed to the correct depth. With the pins protruding, you can take out the pressing dies and put the rivetting pin in the chain tool. Then you press the riveting pin into the pins to flare them.
It looks like you were pressing the riveting pin into the pins while they were still inside the plate. They're not going to flare inside the plate. They need to be sticking out so pins are free to expand into rivets.
The master link you're using is fine. You don't need a new one, you just need to press the plates together so you can mushroom those pins. The pins can't expand if they're still down in the holes of the master link.
It looks like you were pressing the riveting pin into the pins while they were still inside the plate. They're not going to flare inside the plate. They need to be sticking out so pins are free to expand into rivets.
The master link you're using is fine. You don't need a new one, you just need to press the plates together so you can mushroom those pins. The pins can't expand if they're still down in the holes of the master link.
Schirm94M
Registered
So after I got the new master link in, I pressed it first and then flared out the links. I think I may have pressed a little too hard, but at this point I don't care, the chain is finally on. I'm starting to question my choice of buying a new GSXS 1000 GX that I am picking up next week lol. Thanks for all the help, I'm sure it will get easier the more I do it. What do you mean they are shutting the org down? I use the hell out of this forum trying to figure out this bike!
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