Mythos
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Thanks. What about low wheelies with BSTs? Think it's ok or you don't want to speculate?
Minimum Wheelbase, Tire Size, Raising Links, Gearing and Chain Length
- Thread starter Mythos
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I stay away from wheelies and CF rims. CF doesn't bend, so every bit of stress on the rim builds up until it shatters. They simply have no give.
michael parris heuberger
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Hi ZooPopo.Has it correct.The are brittle.
Hayabusa Wannabe
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Mythos
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I'm posting this link about my gearing questions here because it pertains to this thread.
www.hayabusa.org
How Low Can I Gear And Still Do 200 Mph? | Gen 2 Busa Information
I've been happy with it for almost ten years now and it wheelies easy enough in first gear but I wouldn't mind a little more strength at low speed in first gear and especially 6th which I almost feel like I don't need at legal speed limits. BUT I dream about doing 200 mph on this bike. Should...
Mythos
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No problems discussing CF rims here, I'm the one that brought it up but I already have this thread going where I've posted a Brock's video about wheelies with CF rims.
www.hayabusa.org
Looks like Brock acknowledges that CF rims could break from an impact where aluminum would bend. CF rims are rigid but will also flex back into shape if they deform a little from an impact. Aluminum is rigid and fairly malleable. If it deforms, it will bend and remain deformed but in most cases, it will continue to support the bike and the the tire might even stay inflated at least long enough to stop the bike. When I have seen pics of broken bike rims, it is the spokes that let go. In that case, it would make no difference if the tire stayed inflated or not, that bike is going down.
On tire changes with CF rims, Brock has this 3 part video. Here is part 1.
Looks like what is crucial is the wheel clamps are set to 55 psi so the wheel can't spin while the tire is installed using a hydraulic tire machine. No way can I afford a hydraulic tire machine. There are Cycle Hill tire changer videos where they claim that machine is safe for CF rims. The primary difference I see is that the hydraulic machine never touches the rim at all. The Cycle Hill bar is going to rub along the bead surface of the wheel.
I already have some ideas about that on this thread too.
www.hayabusa.org
BST Wheels | General Bike Related Topics
Will check into Dymag . Looks like they have a 5 spoke CF now . I would take your Gen 1 Dymags but those won't work on a Gen 2 .
Looks like Brock acknowledges that CF rims could break from an impact where aluminum would bend. CF rims are rigid but will also flex back into shape if they deform a little from an impact. Aluminum is rigid and fairly malleable. If it deforms, it will bend and remain deformed but in most cases, it will continue to support the bike and the the tire might even stay inflated at least long enough to stop the bike. When I have seen pics of broken bike rims, it is the spokes that let go. In that case, it would make no difference if the tire stayed inflated or not, that bike is going down.
On tire changes with CF rims, Brock has this 3 part video. Here is part 1.
Looks like what is crucial is the wheel clamps are set to 55 psi so the wheel can't spin while the tire is installed using a hydraulic tire machine. No way can I afford a hydraulic tire machine. There are Cycle Hill tire changer videos where they claim that machine is safe for CF rims. The primary difference I see is that the hydraulic machine never touches the rim at all. The Cycle Hill bar is going to rub along the bead surface of the wheel.
I already have some ideas about that on this thread too.
My No-Mar, Cycle Hill, Tire Changer Assembly | General Bike Related Topics
Got my tire changer from No-Mar the other day. I got it within 3 days of ordering it. I am very impressed, with the packaging, looks & construction of the changer. I was also impressed with the detailed instructions, & DVD that came with it. I'm only posting a few pics here. I had too many with...
Mythos
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How Low Can I Gear And Still Do 200 Mph? | Gen 2 Busa Information
I've been happy with it for almost ten years now and it wheelies easy enough in first gear but I wouldn't mind a little more strength at low speed in first gear and especially 6th which I almost feel like I don't need at legal speed limits. BUT I dream about doing 200 mph on this bike. Should...
sixpack577 was saying that 17/46 sprockets would make a nice improvement in acceleration and all you'd need to do is swap in a 41 tooth rear to do 200 mph. Both setups will fit the stock chain length with room for adjustment. If this is true, it's a pretty safe bet that 18/47 would easily fit the stock chain length with 1" raising links that will reduce the distance between the front and rear sprockets. Throw in a 43T rear and swap back to the stock links for max speed or try a 41T or 42T if the bike is ever able to hit the rev limiter with stock 18/43.
Gearing Commander says a +4T rear sprocket and stock 18T front will create a 4.27% difference in rpm from stock gearing at 50 mph. That is just a tad less than Gearing Commander claims for the stock / +4T rear rpm difference I have on my ZX-14. I think the 14 is just a little snappier than it needs to be. A little less engine braking than the 14 has in low speed corners would be ok with me and the busa already wheelies easier than the 14 so no problem there either. I think sixpack's suggestion of 17/46 would be too much for me, that's over 8% different than stock rpm at 50 mph. Gearing Commander is calculating the top speed of the busa with a +4 rear to be just 5 mp slower than the ZX-14 with a +4 and I don't ever go that fast on the road anyway. If I do, I'll just throw in a smaller rear sprocket and maybe lower the rear back to stock if necessary.
Thinking out loud again.
Time to start ordering parts and test fitting. I'll post the results here.
Hayabusa Wannabe
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Also a 60 profile tire will be the same as 2 teeth on the rear. Definitely increases your top speed without gearing change. Add to gearing commander a 200/60 tireand see how your top speed changes.How Low Can I Gear And Still Do 200 Mph? | Gen 2 Busa Information
I've been happy with it for almost ten years now and it wheelies easy enough in first gear but I wouldn't mind a little more strength at low speed in first gear and especially 6th which I almost feel like I don't need at legal speed limits. BUT I dream about doing 200 mph on this bike. Should...
sixpack577 was saying that 17/46 sprockets would make a nice improvement in acceleration and all you'd need to do is swap in a 41 tooth rear to do 200 mph. Both setups will fit the stock chain length with room for adjustment. If this is true, it's a pretty safe bet that 18/47 would easily fit the stock chain length with 1" raising links that will reduce the distance between the front and rear sprockets. Throw in a 43T rear and swap back to the stock links for max speed or try a 41T or 42T if the bike is ever able to hit the rev limiter with stock 18/43.
Gearing Commander says a +4T rear sprocket and stock 18T front will create a 4.27% difference in rpm from stock gearing at 50 mph. That is just a tad less than Gearing Commander claims for the stock / +4T rear rpm difference I have on my ZX-14. I think the 14 is just a little snappier than it needs to be. A little less engine braking than the 14 has in low speed corners would be ok with me and the busa already wheelies easier than the 14 so no problem there either. I think sixpack's suggestion of 17/46 would be too much for me, that's over 8% different than stock rpm at 50 mph. Gearing Commander is calculating the top speed of the busa with a +4 rear to be just 5 mp slower than the ZX-14 with a +4 and I don't ever go that fast on the road anyway. If I do, I'll just throw in a smaller rear sprocket and maybe lower the rear back to stock if necessary.
Thinking out loud again.
View attachment 1627056
View attachment 1627057
Mythos
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@ZeePopo I input 200/55 on gearingcommander for the tire size because that's what I have on the bike now. With stock chain length and a 47T rear the axle will be pulled about all the way forward. I don't know if a 200/60 would clear the front inside of the swingarm. I think it might with the raising links I plan to install because those will open up the swingarm an inch and probably create enough slack to then pull the axle back close to stock WB.
"Also a 60 profile tire will be the same as 2 teeth on the rear."
You mean the same as going two teeth down on the rear in terms of speed/rpm.
"Also a 60 profile tire will be the same as 2 teeth on the rear."
You mean the same as going two teeth down on the rear in terms of speed/rpm.
I'm putting on a 200/65 in the next few days with a 46t rear. I'll let ya know how much space I have left.
Yeah increasing the tire profile to 60 is the same as down 2 teeth in the rear.
Mythos
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TRIED 18/47T SPROCKET GEARING WITH STOCK CHAIN LENGTH
Now for gearing: With stock chain length and stock front sprocket, a 47T rear will not fit. This is me pulling the wheel back so the chain is tight on top and bottom. The bike is on a swingarm pivot stand so the swingarm is open as far as it will go on the stock suspension. No way that axle would even go through and even if it did, I still need to tighten the axle nut, place the bike's weight on the rear shock, sit on the bike and go over bumps all of which tighten the chain even more. 18/47 is not possible with a stock chain length. It's less than minimum WB. All that could be done would be to grind the axle slots farther forward but who's going to do that?? (I actually know of someone who did do that).
According to this link, 18/47 requires a 116 pin chain and the Gen2 has 114 pins. Just like going to +4T on my ZX-14 rear sprocket, I needed one extra link in the chain.
www.hayabusa.org
One extra link is about what looks to be required from this picture I took today. Maybe even two extra once you torque the axle, put the bike's weight on the shock and the rider's weight plus extra slack for for the shock to compress during operation.
Hopefully installing the Schnitz raising links will be my saving grace. That is supposed to raise the tail 1 inch. If that's one inch on center with the axle, I might be able to stick with a 114 pin chain and be right about minimum WB. I'll update again when I get the links on.
I pulled the axle all the way forward and then some today. I put my new 47T rear sprocket on with the almost worn out front sprocket and drive chain. Looks like there is still plenty of room for a larger tire than the 200/55 I have on there now. The tire is worn but I doubt that amounts to more than a few milimeters of additional clearance with the inside front of the swingarm. The chain and front sprocket are worn but I believe that has only added about an eighth of an inch of extra tire clearance. Suzuki designed this swingarm to accommodate a wide range of tire and sprockets sizes with the stock chain length. SO--minimum wheelbase/stock chain length, 200/55 still possible and looks likely a 200/60 would fit.
Now for gearing: With stock chain length and stock front sprocket, a 47T rear will not fit. This is me pulling the wheel back so the chain is tight on top and bottom. The bike is on a swingarm pivot stand so the swingarm is open as far as it will go on the stock suspension. No way that axle would even go through and even if it did, I still need to tighten the axle nut, place the bike's weight on the rear shock, sit on the bike and go over bumps all of which tighten the chain even more. 18/47 is not possible with a stock chain length. It's less than minimum WB. All that could be done would be to grind the axle slots farther forward but who's going to do that?? (I actually know of someone who did do that).
According to this link, 18/47 requires a 116 pin chain and the Gen2 has 114 pins. Just like going to +4T on my ZX-14 rear sprocket, I needed one extra link in the chain.
Chain length question?? | General Bike Related Topics
I put a gold Supersprox 47 tooth sprocket that I got from Pashnit on my Gen II but the stock chain is too tight. The axel is all the way forward and I only have ¼â€™â€™ of down travel and ¼â€™â€™ of up travel. That’s on the stand too; I don’t even know how tight it would get with my fat...
One extra link is about what looks to be required from this picture I took today. Maybe even two extra once you torque the axle, put the bike's weight on the shock and the rider's weight plus extra slack for for the shock to compress during operation.
Hopefully installing the Schnitz raising links will be my saving grace. That is supposed to raise the tail 1 inch. If that's one inch on center with the axle, I might be able to stick with a 114 pin chain and be right about minimum WB. I'll update again when I get the links on.
michael parris heuberger
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Hi Myhos. I am running a .96 -1 6th gear and 20 tooth front and a 38 tooth rear with a 299/60/17 what would the MPH be per 1000 RPM ? I want to be geared for 280 MPH. The motor is built for 13500 RPM,TRIED 18/47T SPROCKET GEARING WITH STOCK CHAIN LENGTH
I pulled the axle all the way forward and then some today. I put my new 47T rear sprocket on with the almost worn out front sprocket and drive chain. Looks like there is still plenty of room for a larger tire than the 200/55 I have on there now. The tire is worn but I doubt that amounts to more than a few milimeters of additional clearance with the inside front of the swingarm. The chain and front sprocket are worn but I believe that has only added about an eighth of an inch of extra tire clearance. Suzuki designed this swingarm to accommodate a wide range of tire and sprockets sizes with the stock chain length. SO--minimum wheelbase/stock chain length, 200/55 still possible and looks likely a 200/60 would fit.
Now for gearing: With stock chain length and stock front sprocket, a 47T rear will not fit. This is me pulling the wheel back so the chain is tight on top and bottom. The bike is on a swingarm pivot stand so the swingarm is open as far as it will go on the stock suspension. No way that axle would even go through and even if it did, I still need to tighten the axle nut, place the bike's weight on the rear shock, sit on the bike and go over bumps all of which tighten the chain even more. 18/47 is not possible with a stock chain length. It's less than minimum WB. All that could be done would be to grind the axle slots farther forward but who's going to do that?? (I actually know of someone who did do that).
According to this link, 18/47 requires a 116 pin chain and the Gen2 has 114 pins. Just like going to +4T on my ZX-14 rear sprocket, I needed one extra link in the chain.
Chain length question?? | General Bike Related Topics
I put a gold Supersprox 47 tooth sprocket that I got from Pashnit on my Gen II but the stock chain is too tight. The axel is all the way forward and I only have ¼â€™â€™ of down travel and ¼â€™â€™ of up travel. That’s on the stand too; I don’t even know how tight it would get with my fat...
One extra link is about what looks to be required from this picture I took today. Maybe even two extra once you torque the axle, put the bike's weight on the shock and the rider's weight plus extra slack for for the shock to compress during operation.
View attachment 1630024
Hopefully installing the Schnitz raising links will be my saving grace. That is supposed to raise the tail 1 inch. If that's one inch on center with the axle, I might be able to stick with a 114 pin chain and be right about minimum WB. I'll update again when I get the links on.
Mythos
Registered
@michael parris heuberger So that's a 1996 Hayabusa with max rpm of 13,500, 20/38 gearing and a 299/60/17 tire (is that even a real size?).
There might be a few significant variables missing but according to Gearing commander, you should top out at almost 637 mph. Watch out for that shock wave.
There might be a few significant variables missing but according to Gearing commander, you should top out at almost 637 mph. Watch out for that shock wave.
Dopey
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U had it set on kilometers instead of mph... I'm guessing that'll make a bit of a difference
Mythos
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In that case, Michael will only be able to go 395 mph.U had it set on kilometers instead of mph... I'm guessing that'll make a bit of a difference
michael parris heuberger
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Hi. Thanks but it is a 1999 busa [ I have over drive 6th gear it is .96 to 1. stock 6 th gear is 1.043 to 1 ]] [ stock is it has 20 front and 38 rear. The tire is a 200/60/17.
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