HID light upgrade education.

NuckaMan

Registered
I'm a little confused on what is exactly needed beyond the bulb for a HID light upgrade.

Ballast and other things?

Can someone recommend a complete kit for a Gen 1 Busa HID Kit?

Thanks
 
I used DDM Tunning for my HID's came out realy nice.

BIKESINGLEH7-6000K DDM 35W & 55W Single Motorcycle HID Kit
Options:
Wattage : 35W Bulb Type : H7 Bulb Color : 6000K $17.50

BIKESINGLEHP9005-6000K DDM 35W & 55W Single Motorcycle HID Kit
Options:
Wattage : 55W (+$7.50) Bulb Type : 9005 Bulb Color : 6000K $25.00

I also chose to use an adjustable timer from tripageled.com $40.00. It delays the the HID'S from coming on when the key is turned. I have it set for 30 seconds or so. Others use the dei one but the tripageled only uses 4 wires, 2 in and 2 out and is very simlply.
 
High beam HID is not necessary and won't last as long being turned on and off constantly. HIDs are designed to be turned on and left on until the vehicle is turned off. Not on and off repeatedly. The cars that come factory with high and low beam HID (Cadillac, some BMW, and some Merc. among others) have a magnet in the bulb that actually shifts the position of the bulb to supply the high beam. This way the bulb and ballast are never shut off in the switch from low to high and vice versa. The cars that only have HID in the low beam leave the HIDs on and just turn on a separate set of halogens for the high beams.
 
High beam HID is not necessary and won't last as long being turned on and off constantly. HIDs are designed to be turned on and left on until the vehicle is turned off. Not on and off repeatedly. The cars that come factory with high and low beam HID (Cadillac, some BMW, and some Merc. among others) have a magnet in the bulb that actually shifts the position of the bulb to supply the high beam. This way the bulb and ballast are never shut off in the switch from low to high and vice versa. The cars that only have HID in the low beam leave the HIDs on and just turn on a separate set of halogens for the high beams.

The high dollar ones that just move the position of the bulb are Bi-Xenon.

DDM Tuning has a lifetime guarantee on their bulbs. I just lowered my high beam a little and run both lights @ same time like blanca to ensure maximum visibility for me and for people who might not see me.
 
Some of the Acura models flash the HID low beams repeatedly when the alarm goes off, 5-minutes at a time for a false alarm.

Are Honda/Acura doing something different with the HID's there?
 
High beam HID is not necessary and won't last as long being turned on and off constantly. HIDs are designed to be turned on and left on until the vehicle is turned off. Not on and off repeatedly. The cars that come factory with high and low beam HID (Cadillac, some BMW, and some Merc. among others) have a magnet in the bulb that actually shifts the position of the bulb to supply the high beam. This way the bulb and ballast are never shut off in the switch from low to high and vice versa. The cars that only have HID in the low beam leave the HIDs on and just turn on a separate set of halogens for the high beams.

So, can you just install two h7 low beams and kill the hi/lo switch somehow? If so, does it make that much of a difference if you get 35w or 55w bulbs?
 
No, the wiring in the bulbs and the fittings are different between the high and low. And most here will tell you to get the 35's not the 55's. 35's are pretty bright, and you don't run the danger of them overheating (some have reported VERY HOT glass/internals with 55w bulbs....althought some have them and report no problems.
 
I run High beams as much as I can... on all the time during the day.... and as much as I can when I know I am not clicking on then off then on then off! No issues after a year plus of use! Also, stay with the 35 watt kit. I have done (2) 55 watt kits... and they are brighter... almost too bright... really over kill! Low beam has that high beam look as in blind you if hit by the hot spot of the headlamp itself compared to the 35 watt kits!
 
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The high dollar ones that just move the position of the bulb are Bi-Xenon.

DDM Tuning has a lifetime guarantee on their bulbs. I just lowered my high beam a little and run both lights @ same time like blanca to ensure maximum visibility for me and for people who might not see me.

The bulbs aren't the only thing that take unecessary abuse. It's the ballast, too. Repeated flashing on and off shortens the life of the ballasts too. I know a lot of people on here run the highs too. Which is fine.... If you don't care that you'll most likely wind up replacing them early. They may last just as long, but chances are they won't. It's just the nature of the system.

Some of the Acura models flash the HID low beams repeatedly when the alarm goes off, 5-minutes at a time for a false alarm.

Are Honda/Acura doing something different with the HID's there?

I don't know what Honda and Acura are doing, but if they're like most other systems that's not very good for them. I guess they probably assume an alarm going off isn't a very frequent occurrence, so they don't worry about it. I mean if you want to get the high beam, by all means, go ahead. I'm just saying it's not something I would personally do. It's not necessary. The low beam is plenty bright. On a straight road with mine I can see a good mile to a mile and a half.... Does anyone really need to see farther than that?
 
HID info

Colors:
Color is important, 4-5k gives the best performance and is closest to natural sunlight. It is also far less offensive to the eye, yours and oncoming traffic. The higher temps are more for bling factor, but will give less light and more "glare".

3000K has an approximately 3200lm output, which is more than 3x the light output of the traditional halogen light. 3000K emits GOLDEN YELLOW color and offers superior penetration power during adverse weather epically in dense fog. The applications of the 3000K kit aim more towards secondary lighting apparatus such as high beam and fog lights. The 3000K capsule is actually a 5000K capsule specially coated with a film that filters out all the wave length except the range of wave length which emits yellow.

4300K has an approximately 3200lm output, which is more than 3x the light output of the traditional halogen light and is the color temperature with the most output. The light appears fairly white, and has light yellowish hue when reflected off the road identical to the OEM HID equipped vehicles. This color is for customers who is looking for pure performance white improving the looks of their headlight. It is idea for customers who does a lot of back road or canyon driving and need the optimal visibility.

6000K has an approximately 2800lm output, which is 3x the light output of the traditional halogen light and slightly less light output compared to the 5000K. Although it has a bit lesser light output, it emits pure whiter light with very slight and barely noticeable tint of blue.

8000K has an approximately 2550lm output, which is about 3x the light output of the traditional halogen light and slightly less light output compared to the 6000K. While it has a bit lesser light output, it emits bluer light than the 6000K.

Power consumption:
These HIDs use much less power than stock bulbs, only 35 watts per bulb. They are the perfect option for bikes with weak generators that need more light. Using higher wattage halogens will not equal the power these produce, and higher wattage halogens produce alot of glare and light scatter.
Legality:
HID conversions are not technically legal in the US, but neither is speeding, or using "race only" pipes on a bike, so take that into consideration when making your purchase.

Will they blind other drivers?
If properly installed and aimed they will not. Actually I have been flashed less since installing and properly aiming them than I did with the stock bulbs. The only time I was flashed was on a turn when it pointed the light directly at an oncoming car. With the stocks lights I had to raise the beam slightly for better vision, with the HIDs I use factory spec settings. Remember, it is imperative to properly aim your lights, as the output is much more than stock.

What separates genuine Xenon gas-filled Bulbs from Xenon HID?
HID (High Intensity Discharge) is the technology in which the filament of the Halogen Bulb is replaced with Xenon gas. When high voltage is applied, the gas generates an arc of light. The Xenon gas generates 3x more light than standard halogen Bulbs. Most companies do produce gas-filled halogen Bulbs. These Bulbs do consist of a filament, but the gas gives off a bluer color. The negative part of xenon-filled halogen Bulbs, is they produce very little or no more then standard halogen Bulbs with the same voltage.

How long will the Bulbs last?
An average of 2500 hours is normal from bulb testing. But, most will outlast your ownership of the bike you install them on.... Hope this helps!

Oh yea the Gen 1 Busa
H7 low beam..
9005 High beam..
 
The high dollar ones that just move the position of the bulb are Bi-Xenon.

DDM Tuning has a lifetime guarantee on their bulbs. I just lowered my high beam a little and run both lights @ same time like blanca to ensure maximum visibility for me and for people who might not see me.

I just blinde em :laugh:
 
High beam HID is not necessary and won't last as long being turned on and off constantly. HIDs are designed to be turned on and left on until the vehicle is turned off. Not on and off repeatedly.


Good point...hadn't thought about it like that
 
Am I seeing something wrong about this price?!? $25?

HID Kits, BMW Aftermarket Bumpers & Lighting, DEPO - DDM Tuning

Harley design and you ride a busa? :rofl: That's awesome! As for the price, no, you're not seeing anything wrong. That's the same price I see. Although, I can't see how a $25 HID kit can be any good. . . . I know people have them, and most say they haven't had any problems out of them, but I just can't see how it's at all possible to make a quality HID kit and sell it for $25 still making a profit. I just don't see it.
 
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