Ok, I am at a loss, battery help please.

twotonevert

twotonevert

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Heres the deal, about 3 weeks ago, I replaced my lead acid battery with a gel battery, should be good to go. I did all the checks and pre-charged it before the install. Fast forward to today, she has been under the cover till now when I started getting Juli's bike ready to sell, I wanted to get mine out and stretch her legs. The battery was dead as a hammer. I have charged it for the better part of the day with no results. It jump started just fine and ran well as long as I didnt shut her off. I rode it for about 30 minutes, come home, turned her off and tried to start it back, nothing but clicking. Please tell me step by step in how to check for current draw. Something is pulling the battery down. I have a gorilla alarm, was not armed, and a dual socket plug under the hump, nothing plugged in. I am beside myself. I think I may call the local battery supplier here in town and take them up on my warranty, 1 year free replacement. Please give me your ideas.
 
I like your final thought. It's clean and easy and fully on the up-and-up.

You don't want to be somewhere and have the one you currently have installed...fail.

No bueno.

Muy malo.

No funciona.

Lo siento.

Pobrecito.

That's what I'd do. :beerchug:
 
I disconnected the alarm and the accessory sockets. The only thing connected now is the GiPro and bike harness. Back on the charger. I have an automatic charger, smart chip, yada yada, but I am afraid of overcharging the battery.
 
You might just have a bum battery James. I had an Interstate battery a few years ago went bad less than a month after buying it. Took it to a local dealer who tested it and confirmed the cells were bad. An local auto parts store should be able to test it for free. :thumbsup:
 
jdsbusa said:
You might just have a bum battery James. I had an Interstate battery a few years ago went bad less than a month after buying it. Took it to a local dealer who tested it and confirmed the cells were bad. An local auto parts store should be able to test it for free. :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

That is the next step my friend. I want to make sure I dont have other issues. I know my charging system is ok, did the check per the manual. I just cant figure it out, something must be pulling it down. :banghead:
 
I would disconnect that Alarm / Charge the Battery and see what happens, As I recall you didnt have those problems until we installed that alarm.

Also not sure about a bike Battery but I was once told it takes a 20 min drive to replace the charge it took to start the engine. A 20 min ride may not have had time to charge the battery.
 
twotonevert said:
Those dont count, quit jacking my thread or its pirate time! :lol:
Click to expand...

Aaaarrgh.

Also, while it might initially appear as thread-jacking, I'm really just giving your thread some love-nudges...you know, :bump:s; the affectionate, brotherly kind...

:whistle:
 
Take the battery back and get it replaced because it is under warranty. you shouldn't be drawing that much current with your current set up. I keep my bike on a batery tender year round because it doesn't draw much current or does it hurt your bikes battery. The 7.5 A fuse will protect your bikes electrical system. I would have a a current draw test done because you might have another problem.
 
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I have the exact same situation. No matter what I do for storing the battery they die over winter storage.
 
twotonevert said:
That is the next step my friend. I want to make sure I dont have other issues. I know my charging system is ok, did the check per the manual. I just cant figure it out, something must be pulling it down. :banghead:
Click to expand...

You will need a VOM first, a cheap one at Radio Shack will do. The sweep kind, with a needle. Install new battery, dis-connect the positive cable, put the leads of the VOM between the positive post and the positive battery cable.
The red VOM cable will be on the post of the battery and the black will be on the cable side, with everything in the OFF position, there should be no reading. If there is, pull fuses one by one until the needle reads zero. Now you can read the fuse position and see what area is drawing current.

By the way, VOM is a Volt Ohm Meter.
When testing, have the selector in DC Volt position.
 
aussiekeeper said:
You will need a VOM first, a cheap one at Radio Shack will do. The sweep kind, with a needle. Install new battery, dis-connect the positive cable, put the leads of the VOM between the positive post and the positive battery cable.
The red VOM cable will be on the post of the battery and the black will be on the cable side, with everything in the OFF position, there should be no reading. If there is, pull fuses one by one until the needle reads zero. Now you can read the fuse position and see what area is drawing current.

By the way, VOM is a Volt Ohm Meter.
When testing, have the selector in DC Volt position.
Click to expand...

James should have something to test with, he's a linesman for pete's sake! :laugh:
I wouldn't be surprised if it was just a bad battery, get it replaced and if the new one goes dead too, then you know for sure it's a bike problem, otherwise you just were unlucky that day and got the bad one.
 
There are some good test you can do. If the battery will recharge do that first. Then check the battery voltage with the key off it should be 12-13VDC. Next Check the Amp draw at the main fuse. It should be less than 1 Amp. Next check Amp draw at the main fuse with the key on. Next test is to check Amperage by placing the positive lead on the + starter lead wire and the negative on ground. Charging Amperage should be at least 1 Amp. Charging voltage will be in the 13-14.5 V range if normal. Rev the engine in its max charging range.I would also do a stator,rectifier check also. Check manual.
 
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Cool, I have a clamp on amp meter I can check it with. I will get back with you guys soon. This will drive me crazy until I figure it out.
 
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