What a Wet Shot looks like.

Nick, do you still have any of those billet cam chain guides left over?? I kind of missed the last boat. ???


Sorry I no longer make them.
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So Tosick, since Nick knows that there is a way to fog a airbox and make more hp with a smaller jet do you think my dyno runs are BS?

Thats NEVER been my main argument with you Drake! What my main argument/debate with you is that i KNOW FOR A FACT that a dry spraybar(or as you so delicately put it "$hitbar")WORKS, and works VERY well, and it will MAKE MORE HP than the same size "dry fogger" kit...ie, fogging the airbox(all things be equal). :type:
 
Thats NEVER been my main argument with you Drake! What my main argument/debate with you is that i KNOW FOR A FACT that a dry spraybar(or as you so delicately put it "$hitbar")WORKS, and works VERY well, and it will MAKE MORE HP than the same size "dry fogger" kit...ie, fogging the airbox(all things be equal). :type:

Mine does so don't you think you should say "basic" foggers kits can't make the same hp not "all" fogger kits. I'll will cut you some slack on that cause I couldn't give you all the info. Now you know there is a way to fog the airbox that can make more hp than a spraybar with a smaller jet and use less nitrous. Like I always have said, control is everything. Keep your mind open. We good though.
:thumbsup:
 
I'm only posting a response to acknowledge that I did come back to this thread only to see how KofC responded. As suspected, your claimed VE is only the theoretical VE from a calculation. Don't worry though you don't have to explain anything more.

All right commuta. I got my notes in front of me and I see where we are missing each other. I figured my acutal VE off of A/F and not by sensor data. I knew I was missing something when you kept saying what did I use to measure. I figured this up by the book equations of what my A/F came out to be after tuning. Do I need to explain or you follow me?

And it was 95%. Excuse my memory. Good thing i keep notes.
 
I'm only posting a response to acknowledge that I did come back to this thread only to see how KofC responded. As suspected, your claimed VE is only the theoretical VE from a calculation. Don't worry though you don't have to explain anything more.


Now instead of just asking me how I came about it you just think I'm still using theoretical equations. All I asked that day was for you to wait till I get home so I didn't have to try to remember how we did it off my memory. We did it by the book then we put it on the dyno and got the facts and figured actual from that. Do you even know how A VE can be figured by A/F? You know what, never mind, don't answer that. I don't even care anymore. :thumbsup:
 
You guys can kill a thread fast than I can get my helmet on.:bowdown:

Time for a new one...:please:

Topics could include:
bottle pressure management and control - different / best methods.
weak links of the GenI and GenII under boost - what to change and at what level, and how to prevent engine failure.
Controller ramp times - different types and best methods for ET.
or perhaps, my momma can beat up your momma:moon:
 
Yeah, you two would probably have good conversation face to face,, and yet here it's just a pissing match. Stubborn SOB's. Come on, now,,, small stuff ain't worth losing the world over, eh?
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You guys can kill a thread fast than I can get my helmet on.:bowdown:

Time for a new one...:please:

Topics could include:
bottle pressure management and control - different / best methods.
weak links of the GenI and GenII under boost - what to change and at what level, and how to prevent engine failure.
Controller ramp times - different types and best methods for ET.
or perhaps, my momma can beat up your momma:moon:

You start'em,I'll particpate :thumbsup:
 
Yeah, you two would probably have good conversation face to face,, and yet here it's just a pissing match. Stubborn SOB's. Come on, now,,, small stuff ain't worth losing the world over, eh?
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Makes for an interesting day though :thumbsup: notice how people are still coming back for more :whistle:
 
Controller ramp times - different types and best methods for ET.
Well I'll throw in my .02 on the controller part. The PNC3000 so far (too me) that I've tested has exactly what I need. You can use it like any other basic nitrous controller but if you get into the graph editor it works smoooooooth. Most controllers have a starting percent, final percent and build time. Lets say you can leave off the line with 30%. To keep it from ramping so fast you put in a long build time. Well the graph editor will alow you to hold your starting percentage untill you want it to start ramping. Pretty much like leaving on a 30 shot and after your 60ft starting another stage of nitrous. Keeps the bike from wheeling from too fast a ramp time but gets your power down fast. You can set the ramp to hold anywhere you want. The only thing I found out is if you ever change anything of your basic setup it knocks your graphs down to match. I did that on a grudge run and my basic settings was 30% starting to 100% in 3 seconds with no delay but my starting percentage is held at 30% for 1.30 seconds. Normally thats it but on the video I posted below I changed my final to 60% cause I knew I didn't need my full shot to beat this guy (and I wanted him to try it again, mo money!) but when I did, it knocked my graph off and went from 30 to 60 in 1.70 seconds. The pucker factor definitly sat in on me and scared the crap out of me cause my bike never wheelies (control). If you look as the front wheel goes up you can see my rear wheel leave the ground also. It blew the front tire off the rim it hit so hard when it touched back down. I'm in the left lane.




drake and roro video by NIkonD200 - Photobucket
 
Controller ramp times - different types and best methods for ET.
Well I'll throw in my .02 on the controller part. The PNC3000 so far (too me) that I've tested has exactly what I need. You can use it like any other basic nitrous controller but if you get into the graph editor it works smoooooooth. Most controllers have a starting percent, final percent and build time. Lets say you can leave off the line with 30%. To keep it from ramping so fast you put in a long build time. Well the graph editor will alow you to hold your starting percentage untill you want it to start ramping. Pretty much like leaving on a 30 shot and after your 60ft starting another stage of nitrous. Keeps the bike from wheeling from too fast a ramp time but gets your power down fast. You can set the ramp to hold anywhere you want. The only thing I found out is if you ever change anything of your basic setup it knocks your graphs down to match. I did that on a grudge run and my basic settings was 30% starting to 100% in 3 seconds with no delay but my starting percentage is held at 30% for 1.30 seconds. Normally thats it but on the video I posted below I changed my final to 60% cause I knew I didn't need my full shot to beat this guy (and I wanted him to try it again, mo money!) but when I did, it knocked my graph off and went from 30 to 60 in 1.70 seconds. The pucker factor definitly sat in on me and scared the crap out of me cause my bike never wheelies (control). If you look as the front wheel goes up you can see my rear wheel leave the ground also. It blew the front tire off the rim it hit so hard when it touched back down. I'm in the left lane.




drake and roro video by NIkonD200 - Photobucket

CAN YOU SAY OUCH! :bomb: So how much coin was on the tree?
 
That is mabye the sickest thing I have ever seen. I cant even emagine what that must feel like installed and operational on the king of beasts.:madfire:
 
I only made the one prototype and it is installed in my bike. The shoulder bolts are rated for 90,000 psi and the needle bearings can handle 30,000 rpm. I have a hell of alot of hours into the design. Lot of fitment issues at first but it all fits underneath the valve cover and does not advance or retard the cam timing. I got tired of doing this. Broke 2 of them spraying a 200 shot.


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