What the Hell is wrong with this beast
- Thread starter jmaz268
- Start date
well, got everything apart and cleaned the crap out the clutch master cyclinder(the one with the piston), then I sprayed a bunch of brake cleaner in and put my fingers over the holes and pushed down on the piston, well I seen some bubbles while it was at the top of the shaft but not at the bottom..
To me when I see bubbles around an object when it is sealed like that it usually means bad things...Am I wrong.
John
To me when I see bubbles around an object when it is sealed like that it usually means bad things...Am I wrong.
John
ok....who the hell knows...
an' for fug sakes... turn off that RED FONT.
The fluid is not your problem!!!!! You need to find out why the rod is not disengaging the clutch. To find out what is going on you will need to pull the clutch cover off. Then pull the pressure plate off. there is a shorter rod with a flat bearing on it and it contacts the inside of the presure plate. Install this back into the center of the clutch assy and push on it. It should feel like you are pushing your clutch slave piston back in. If it does not there is a problem if it does then push it all the way in and then have someone pull the clutch and make sure that it extends out. Let me check a feew things and I will psot up in a minute.
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Another thing is you ned to bleed the system some more. I know you said you bled it but that is the only thing that be causing your problem. Also you said you replaced the rod right? There are 2 rods one which comes out the left side and the other comes out the right or clutch side. surely you did not lose one did you? other than that the only thing to do is keep bleeding the system. I had the same thing happen to my bike and it too kfor ever to bleed it out. I went and bought a vaccuum bleeder from Auto zone to pull the fluid thru and it finally worked. Hope this helps and let us know how it goes.
Bronto
Registered
Without being primed. The last 1/4" of lever travel is what pumps. It takes many pumps to get enough to prime the system.
Don't have to release bleeder valve every single lever pull. Try multiple ever pulls between bleeder valve release and close. Once primed then cordinate lever and bleeder valve every time.
Don't have to release bleeder valve every single lever pull. Try multiple ever pulls between bleeder valve release and close. Once primed then cordinate lever and bleeder valve every time.
yes I changed the chain side pin and it is all connected because I can push in the clutch side pin a little and when I push the chain side pin in the clutch side pin comes back to its resting place against the clutch...So I know the other one is still there. How hard should it be to manually pull the clutch assembly away from flywheel....It seems impossibly meaning I couldn't do it...Is that wrong. I figured I could do it but it didn't budge.
Truckracer
Registered
I wouldn't think you could disengage the clutch by hand.
I think tonight I am gonna hurry up and get over and take the piston off and take it over to the zuki shop and have them check it out to be sure, because for 1 I can't afford a new one right now anyway but I wanna make sure that is what the problem is before I go and spend 70 bucks on something I don't need.
John
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John
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I guess tyhe better question is: Does anybody have one laying around that I could use to check if mine is broke or fine.
Calling Jeremy...Could you help man.
Maybe not today but maybe tommorrow or something I would only need it for like an hour or so.
Calling Jeremy...Could you help man.
Maybe not today but maybe tommorrow or something I would only need it for like an hour or so.
TruWrecks
Banned
If it was the stock chain, it should be covered under warranty. The only parts not covered (by law) are the parts that have been replaced or modified. The law applies to all aftermarket parts added to cars and motorcycles. That way the manufacture can't deny coverage on the engine/transmission, just because you added a GPS or Radar Detector.
Call your dealer and tell them what happened. Don't let them give you garbage about it.
Call your dealer and tell them what happened. Don't let them give you garbage about it.
i think I may have figured it out. I hooked up with Jeremy (Mr. Brown) yesterday and was gonna take his clutch master cylinder over to my bike to see if it would work, well half way over my other buddy calls and says no you can't come over it 's me and my wifeys 1 year anniversary.
So I am kind pissed now, well I turn around to just go put the part back on jeremey's bike.
Well when I get there...i will be damned if the same problem didn't happen. WTF
After a little brain racking and some elbow grease. I realized the fluid holder is tight but needs to be ahella lot tighter or IT LEAKS AIR.
So I am gonna try and get over to my bike and tighten big time.
Also those crappy little phillips heads strip out very easily, has anyone changed those to either allen held, or actual socket type to be able to get more ass into the tightening.
John
So I am kind pissed now, well I turn around to just go put the part back on jeremey's bike.
Well when I get there...i will be damned if the same problem didn't happen. WTF
After a little brain racking and some elbow grease. I realized the fluid holder is tight but needs to be ahella lot tighter or IT LEAKS AIR.
So I am gonna try and get over to my bike and tighten big time.
Also those crappy little phillips heads strip out very easily, has anyone changed those to either allen held, or actual socket type to be able to get more ass into the tightening.
John
Are you talking about the cover for the master cylinder?
cause if you are,it doesn't matter how tight you screw that cap down....its just a resorvoir.... I bleed brakes and clutch's with them off.... It wont make a difference.
I believe that your problem is electrical in nature. The side stand relay is the relay that controls the +12 volts to the pull in coil portion of the fuel pump relay and the ignition coils. The side stand relay pull in coil ground circuit is provided via the gear position switch and/or the side stand switch. When the transmission is in neutral, there is a ground circuit provided by the gear psosition switch which turns ON the neutral indicator lamp. Does your neutral indicator lamp lite in neutral ?
In addition to the above, there are 3 diodes in the grounding circuit(s) to prevent a "false" ground indicaition.
I tried scanning the diagram to upload it so that it would make more sense, but I cant get the file size under 1.5 megs and have it legible. I hope this helps.
btw, you wouldnt have a t.r.e. on it would you ?
In addition to the above, there are 3 diodes in the grounding circuit(s) to prevent a "false" ground indicaition.
I tried scanning the diagram to upload it so that it would make more sense, but I cant get the file size under 1.5 megs and have it legible. I hope this helps.
btw, you wouldnt have a t.r.e. on it would you ?
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