Whats wrong in these pictures?
- Thread starter denraweb
- Start date
Nothing on it says 530, but it's 112 links.
Only numbers on it are in the pics on the op which were 50 GSV3, 2303, RK, and the master link says 50 GSV.
Anyways, I removed the master link today, took some pics, and a made a few videos. The master was pretty tight, and I just realized something... does the master link have to match the chain?
Master link reads: 50 GSV
Chain reads: 50 GSV3
Only numbers on it are in the pics on the op which were 50 GSV3, 2303, RK, and the master link says 50 GSV.
Anyways, I removed the master link today, took some pics, and a made a few videos. The master was pretty tight, and I just realized something... does the master link have to match the chain?
Master link reads: 50 GSV
Chain reads: 50 GSV3
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Chains don't "stretch". In truth the pin wears on the inside of the bushing, that small amount of wear multiplied by the number of links causes the chain to elongate. From your last photo it looks like the master link is not seating properly in the sprocket. I wonder if the pins and bushings in the master link were properly greased upon assembly. Too little grease would cause premature wear and increase the pin to pin distance in the master link.
Can you pull the chain off the rear sprocket and expose more than half a tooth? If you can the chain is shot.
Pull the front sprocket cover as it is much small it wears much faster (especially with a worn chain) just because the rear sprocket looks OK is no guarantee than the front sprocket is OK.
If your front sprocket is OK and you cannot pull the chain off the back of the rear sprocket by more than half a tooth then replace the master link and see if the chain runs smoothly.
The master link need to be greased during assembly like so;
cheers
ken
Can you pull the chain off the rear sprocket and expose more than half a tooth? If you can the chain is shot.
Pull the front sprocket cover as it is much small it wears much faster (especially with a worn chain) just because the rear sprocket looks OK is no guarantee than the front sprocket is OK.
If your front sprocket is OK and you cannot pull the chain off the back of the rear sprocket by more than half a tooth then replace the master link and see if the chain runs smoothly.
The master link need to be greased during assembly like so;
cheers
ken
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jch364
Registered
I had the exact same thing happen to one of my chains. I took my bike to a local dealer and they put the chain on with a master link that was not supposed to be used on my kind of bike. after a few thousand miles i heard the same thing and saw the exact same thing going on. By then i had found an independent shop who i trusted and took it to them. he saw it and new what it was. pulled the chain and put the proper master link on it and gave me the old one to show me. the metal rods had been worn about a third of the way through.!!!! i had a catastrophe in the making.!! all because of incompetence of that dealership. once it was fixed with the proper type link all was good.
Well guess what guys. Got a new link and it seats a-ok now. Unfortuneately it's a snap on one, but I dont think it will be a problem 'cuz I just cruise, I really dont ride crazy. Anyways, on top of that, I was going to have to special order the crimp/rivet style master link, and it was gonna take up to a week to get here. I just bought the snap on one for $5.99 because there's no point in ordering the rivet type one and then find out the chain was bad and basically bought it for no reason. So the rivet type link I got was for a test. And it looks good now. I rode it a short distance, like 60 ft, (still kinda sketchy with having the snap on type link) but the "popping" noise I mentioned went away and the chain seems to be smoother now. I still need to throughly clean the chain as it looks like it needs it and then lube it up and take it for a ride. Anyways here's some pics of how it's sitting now...
Also when i removed the old master link, one of the pins was bent, don't know if it was from me having to press the pin out or not, but kinda made me think.
Also when i removed the old master link, one of the pins was bent, don't know if it was from me having to press the pin out or not, but kinda made me think.
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OMG!
i just read the ending of jch364's post about the pins being worn... Then I realized something... When I removed the master link, I remember looking at the pins and seeing something funky, but didn't pay much attention to it since I didn't really know what I was looking for. Well guess what the pins look like? I'll let the picture tell all...
These pins were grinded off on the top (rivet side) and then pushed through with a chain riverter. Gave me a hard time to remove once loose, now I know why...
i just read the ending of jch364's post about the pins being worn... Then I realized something... When I removed the master link, I remember looking at the pins and seeing something funky, but didn't pay much attention to it since I didn't really know what I was looking for. Well guess what the pins look like? I'll let the picture tell all...
These pins were grinded off on the top (rivet side) and then pushed through with a chain riverter. Gave me a hard time to remove once loose, now I know why...
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busa dave
Registered
+1 like i said earlier in this thread. a $200 chain and sprocket set is alot cheaper than fixing everything that's going to get wiped out when that chain breaks.
jch364
Registered
the masterlink was the clip on style that went bad. To be honest i had not been riding it all that hard. as i recall that damage i spoke of only too about 3,000 or so miles to happen. Be careful and keep an eye on it. If it goes you may not have the luxury of any warning signs like i did. It could be catastrophic. be safe and keep an eye on it!
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