Very Very Poor Running Busa need advise please
- Thread starter RedBusarider
- Start date
Sorry, I was tired and after re reading my post I left something out. That obviously doesn't look like rust from the tank. What I meant was that some tanks have been coated because of a prior rust problem, and I have seen that coating break down, allthough not common. I would still re check and drain your tank to make sure the that there is no trash in it. Draining it once was smart, but a 2nd time would rule it out as the problem.
RedBusarider
Registered
I'd be looking into an inline fuel filter mod. After I modded mine, it takes about 5 min and 8 dollars to replace.
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So do you just cut the fuel line from the tank and place/insert one there?
Sixpack577 your point is taken and I may drain the fuel again just to be sure. The tank is OEM and I have never had any problem with it. Just like I've never had any problems like the one that is causing all this research to be done. My bike has always preformed perfectly up until just recently. I know that it's fixable, it just figuring out the quickest, best, least expensive way to do this???
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So do you just cut the fuel line from the tank and place/insert one there?
Sixpack577 your point is taken and I may drain the fuel again just to be sure. The tank is OEM and I have never had any problem with it. Just like I've never had any problems like the one that is causing all this research to be done. My bike has always preformed perfectly up until just recently. I know that it's fixable, it just figuring out the quickest, best, least expensive way to do this???
moloko
Banned
Yes. Take the one out of the stock fuel pump, put it back together without one in it at all. Put an inline filter from any fuel injected vehicle, that can tolerate 42 psi (Might do a search here and double check that number), inline between the pump and the rest of the system.
ya know what?...those "particles" appear to be standard carbon deposits to me..ya know what else?..i'm gonna shid myself laughing when we find out it was the battery. 
as far as the fuel pump/filter thing goes?..dude..didja just swap out tanks with a local member to do a checksee?...or are you going straight for sludge build-up on the crank sensor 1st?
L8R, Bill.
as far as the fuel pump/filter thing goes?..dude..didja just swap out tanks with a local member to do a checksee?...or are you going straight for sludge build-up on the crank sensor 1st?
L8R, Bill.
LeeFL2
Registered
When troubleshooting you have to absolutely rule out all the easy **** first.
The fact that batts crancking engine and then holding 14.5 volts when runing is telling me that batt's good.
That leaves plugs. and yes, they are resistor plugs and I have seen them open up and not allow a spark to pass yet look like new. Sometimes they even go intermitent and work at lower rpm's and quit at higher rpms. I have seen plugs fail sooner than normal too. Usually you can get 15k easy on a set of plugs.
The fact that batts crancking engine and then holding 14.5 volts when runing is telling me that batt's good.
That leaves plugs. and yes, they are resistor plugs and I have seen them open up and not allow a spark to pass yet look like new. Sometimes they even go intermitent and work at lower rpm's and quit at higher rpms. I have seen plugs fail sooner than normal too. Usually you can get 15k easy on a set of plugs.
RedBusarider
Registered
I don't think that the battery caused my problem. What baffles me is WHAT is the debris on the injectors and IN THE mounting holes and how did it get there
lease: I think these are my choices
1. Replace the injectors ($175 each x 4 = $700)
2. Have the injectors professionally cleaned. (cost unknown)
3. Re-install everything and put injector cleaner in the gas tank.
4. I Will replace the spark plugs. Standard CR9E (about $16)
5. Something else???
I would like to take a mini poll (say 10-15) members as to what they would do if it was their bike. Keeping in mind that I can't break the bank. I know I will have to spend some money as I don't think it will fix itself for FREE.
If whatever I do next doesn't fix it, I'm afraid I'll have to take it to a dealer and have them put it on a scope or something. I'm also afraid that they will tell me I need a new ECU at $1500 or so.
Post your opinion and I'll take the top 2 responses and apply them first
Don't forget to comment on how/why the debris got on the injectors etc., if you Know or have see this before. Maybe nobody knows or has seen this?
As usual THANK YOU in advance for your help. Past and Future
How do you feel about used injectors of a low mileage wreck? I've seen em on ebay, and you should be able to buy a set on the fuel rail from a bike salvage yard with a 30 day warranty, in the $200 to $300 range.
Injector cleaner and plugs are cheap enough to do anyway too. I hope it works out for you.
Injector cleaner and plugs are cheap enough to do anyway too. I hope it works out for you.
Lucid
Registered
I guess I'm a little tired and agitated right now but why don't you go work on the bike and see what works? Plugs are cheap, fuel filter is cheap, cleaning plugs yourself is about $5. This thread is a month and a half old. I couldn't look at my bike being messed up for that long.
RedBusarider
Registered
this thread is only 2 weeks old.
busa1300nut
Registered
Flush the fuel filter cartridge out, and the mesh screen, and it will probably cure it. Mine was clogged, and it only missed when it was wot, but it even runs smoother at low speeds now.
RedBusarider
Registered
I did blow out the fuel filter. I didn't find a mesh screen.
Not sure what year yours is but, I think they made a change in 2003.
I removed a spark plug. It looked a little dark and maybe a touch wet?
The service manual calls for a standard CR9E, which is what came with the bike.
It states "If the electrode of the plug is wet appearing or dark color, replace the plug with a hotter type one. If it is white or glazed appearing, replace the plug with a colder type one."
Not sure if mine qualifies for the hotter one. What do you think?
The hotter one is a CR8E.
LeeFL2
Registered
Plug is normal but showing some deposits. Way overdue for a replacement.
Put a cherry set of plugs in there allready. Do not increase or decrease heat range. Stick another CR9 in there.(4)
Like I said, sometimes they miss at high, low or random. They sometimes go intermitent before total fail.
Replace and report back.
PS. Important!! Blow out the plug hole before removing the plug so sand and dirt are blown out before plug comes out.
Put a cherry set of plugs in there allready. Do not increase or decrease heat range. Stick another CR9 in there.(4)
Like I said, sometimes they miss at high, low or random. They sometimes go intermitent before total fail.
Replace and report back.
PS. Important!! Blow out the plug hole before removing the plug so sand and dirt are blown out before plug comes out.
Last edited:
busa1300nut
Registered
The mesh screen is on the very end of pump, it fits into the part that you see when you flip over tank, before removing the pump ass from the tank
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