Very Very Poor Running Busa need advise please

[JINKSTER]

Thanks for your replies!
First off, even though the bike only has 4500 miles it has been stored IN the house during winters. There isn't a mouse nest and I don't have a dog!
It's true the battery is original, but the bike starts fine and I put it on a charger every so often.
I have checked the plugs and they looked picture perfect.
I haven't seen any error codes, however point is well taken that they could be there and not showing.
I had the gas level down to just under a third and then added fresh gas and took it for a 25 mile ride. No difference.
I guess the first place to start will be the fuel filter area. My bike never had fuel plugs with it. Do golf tees work, or should I drain the tank?
I also saw that there is a mesh screen before the filter is that right?
I'll re-check the hoses for cracks or splits and I'll make sure the battery connections are tight.
Thanks again

Redbusarider...the reason i'm leaning towards battery is because i saw a post of yours where you mentioned your tach/speedo needle jumping...and that's exactly what happened to my '03 the last time right before my 3rd battery shid the bed..and now that you've confirmed it's the original oem battery?...in an '04?....dude...that battery is going on 7 years old...which in itself is freaking amazing...betcha need a new one...and i also betcha that a new one will cure what ails your busa...dude...just based on the fact that it's 7 years old?..replace it...jmho & best advice. L8R, Bill.

 

[RedBusarider]

No power commander, and the plugs were a very light tan color, just what the service manual said normal plugs should look like.

Has anyone changed there own fuel filter? Did you drain the tank first?
How about the mesh screen? Is it before the fuel filter. Is it impossible to change these without removing the fuel tank? I'm going to do something soon. I was hoping that someone might be able to steer me in the right direction and save me some money and time.
Thanks again in advance!

 

[RedBusarider]

Jinkster,
Thanks for your reply and looking at an old post I did. You may be very well right!!
I know that my battery is living on borrowed time. However, I have had very good luck with most of my batteries. I store them inside and charge them once a month or so.
The issue with the speedo needle jumping was/is connected to the electronic cruise control that I installed. If the cruise control is not turned on the speedo needle jumps. Once the unit is turned on (but not engaged) the speedo is normal. I assume that it has to do with the fact that the cruise has a wire connected to the VSS wire from the bike.

I'm going to check the voltage on the bike first before I start it and then after it's run awhile. Charge it if needed and try it again, Then if there is no change I think I will replace it and be done with that part of it. If the fuel filter still needs to be change and that would fix it, then at least I'll have a new battery and be good for a few more years!

Thanks for your advise.
Somethings got to fix my sick bike!!!

 

[Lucid]

Plugs going out would likely have problems at start up too, so I doubt it's those.

Sounds like battery or fuel. Throw a new filter in there, with a bike that is a seven years old and only 4500 miles on it, it's done some sitting around. Also check and make sure that when you close the tank, you're not kinking a fuel line. I just got done working with a buddy on his 2010 GSXR1000 and just from him moving some wires around under the tank, the fuel line was hitting some wires and got kinked. (internally collapsed) It was running dangerously lean, but it was running.

Borrow a busa owner's battery and try it out and see if you're still having problems while riding. It's amazing how much the battery has to do with engine performance on these bikes. Not enough volts = improper injector sprays = bad running motor. (and can be dangerous for your motor) Autozone also has some for about $75 if you just want to replace the battery. Again, only 4500 miles means the bike sat around a lot.
Checking sensors is relatively easy if none of the above works. Air filters are cheap too so you might as well replace it while you're doing this mini tune-up.

Hope you find it.

 

[kromdom]

If you do not have a service manual, download a copy here: Service manuals for Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycles, free download of service manuals for your GSXR bikes

My 2 cents: you are way overdue for a battery anyway so why not buy a NEW one? That would be the quickest/easiest (cheapest?) troubleshooting fix you can start with. Best of luck.

 

[StromBusa]

Just some info, my 04 Strom has the original battery, never been out of the bike, and never been on a tender "Use them or lose them"

 

[RedBusarider]

I know that I'm going to have to replace the battery sooner or later. However I checked it and here are the results:
Walking up to the bike cold, the battery read 12.43 Volts.
Starting it and running it read 14.75 volts.
Turn off the motor again it read 12.50 volts.

The engine revs fine and quickly while in neutral.

I don't have a way to check the battery under load except to ride it. And I couldn't check the voltage while riding it.

Thanks for everyone's input! However no ones seems to have changed their own fuel filter? That makes me wonder if it's as easy as some think it is.???

 

[IG.]

I know that I'm going to have to replace the battery sooner or later. However I checked it and here are the results:
Walking up to the bike cold, the battery read 12.43 Volts.
Starting it and running it read 14.75 volts.
Turn off the motor again it read 12.50 volts.

The engine revs fine and quickly while in neutral.

I don't have a way to check the battery under load except to ride it. And I couldn't check the voltage while riding it.

Thanks for everyone's input! However no ones seems to have changed their own fuel filter? That makes me wonder if it's as easy as some think it is.???

I'd say your battery is not fully charged. If it is, then with these numbers, it's on its way to going bad. Charge it good, and repeat the measurements.

 

[IG.]

Just for the heck of it, try cleaning your fuel system with Sea Foam (auto parts stores should have it) per their isntructions on the container (pour an ounce or two in the tank, and go riding so that the treated fuel goes through the system). After you burned a couple of gallons of fuel, if you feel that things improved, that would prove to you that the problem relates to the clogged fuel delivery path.

 

[MO-BUSA]

you might try the coils if the fuel filter does not work also...

 

[SWJ88]

I searched the forum a lot and haven't found a problem just like mine.
My 2004 Busa with 4500 miles is sick. It starts just fine and idles OK.
As soon as I start to ride it, it bogs down and hesitates. The problem is that this happens at all speeds and RPM's. Not just a certain range.
If I maintain a constant speed (say 65 mph) it runs pretty steady although maybe not as smooth as usual. If I ride say 25 mph it really is jerky and sounds sick. If I crank on the throttle it slows down then speeds up then slows down and then will take off. The exhaust sounds different too.
The bike is almost totally stock, no engine mods or exhaust changes have been made. I'm thinking that maybe the fuel filter is clogged? I have checked the hoses and found no cracks or leaks so far. With only 4500 miles, everything looks pretty good yet, under the hood. Any ideas will be welcome. If it is a filter, that's inside the fuel pump right? Is that a big job to change? If anyone can think of something else to try first I'm all ears!
Thanks in advance for any help/ideas!!

definitely sounds like a fuel issue, I would do a simple fuel pressure check and if that reads okay put some new gas in there, it is very likely to have water in it this time of year

 

[BUSA GHOSTRIDER]

It sounds like it could be fuel related. First thing I would do would be the easiest, Drain the fuel tank and refill with good fuel! Pretty simple to do and you'll know that's good. I just pulled my fuel pump and filter out of my 2007 (no longer need it due to turbo install). It was very easy to pull. If you end up needing a pump or filter let me know. My filter had a little bit of junk on it but it cleaned up easily.

 

[RedBusarider]

OK it seems to me that half of you think it's a battery issue and the other half think it's a fuel issue.:confused2:

I just took it for a 45 mile ride. First thing I noticed was that the choke didn't really raise the rpm's a lot as it was warming up. As I rode and kept it at a steady speed it seamed to have a little surging going on. When I got to the highway it shuddered some but when I reached 65 mph and kept it there it ran somewhat OK. Just a slight notice that it wasn't as smooth as usual. However when I cranked on it, it hesitated for 3-5 seconds and then would take off, but not as strong as it should be. I assume that most Busa's are like mine once was, with almost instantaneous response and power.
When I returned to the neighborhood doing 25-30 mph there was a strong shuddering going on. When I returned home I tried turning on the choke. In the service manual it stated that when the engine is warm and the choke is on it should be at 3500 rpm. Mine went to only 2000 rpm if that. That kinda leaves me to think it's not getting enough fuel.
Now I'm strongly thinking that if I can find a battery in town, that I might as well get a new one and that would take care of that end of it. I have my doubts - that would be to easy, especially when the battery had over 12 volts cold and when it was running it showed 14.75 volts.:confused2:

Now if I put Seafoam or something like it in, I wouldn't think that would undue a clogged filter or mesh screen. Yes it would reduce any water in the tank. However I'm in NV and it's pretty dry here compared to a lot of other places. I thinking maybe clogged which means pulling the fuel pump under the gas tank, right? And then disassembling that unit to get to the filter etc.
I'm a little hesitant to do that because I don't have any fuel plugs and if I drained the fuel tank can you really get it all out? Once the fuel pump is removed any remaining fuel in it WILL come out, right?

 

[Lucid]

I had a long fuel line ready to go and as soon as I removed the lead line, I hooked up the long line leading into a gas tank and went and drank a beer to wait for it to drain.

Another thing I did was to make a small 1in fuel line and plug the end with a bolt or something clamped down. Put that on the tank when you remove the tank lead and return lines and nothing will drain. Then you can get all the other stuff unhooked and unbolted, remove the tank, put it vertical so nothing drains, and replace the filter. (I didn't have the fuel tank plugs that are supposed to be in under the rear seat so I basically made some)

Some options.


But yeah I don't think anyone thinks it's the battery anymore after those volt numbers. Small chance, but probably fuel.

 

[DevilDawg1]

Keep us posted, I am leaning toward the fuel problem.

 

[RedBusarider]

OK here goes!
I talked to a dealer today. WE both think that $329 for a fuel filter is robbery.
I called Suzuki CS and got the run around. They can't justify why it costs that much either.
Then he tried to tell me that the filter is not cleanable! Now the rest of the story.
I went and bought a siphon pump ($3) and drained the tank as much as I could.
Then removed all the connections and the tank. Removed the fuel pump and the fuel filter.
Blew it out with air.
Not much to it. I'm not sure how it would even catch any sediment!?
I'm posting some picture so you know what I'm talking about.
I guess the only thing left to do now is reassemble it ALL and take it for a ride.
The gas that came out of it didn't look bad at all, so I put it in my 4 wheel vehicle.

 

[DevilDawg1]

Keep us updated, please.

 

[JINKSTER]

i'm still go'in with.."Change the 7 year old oem battery"

that's my story and i'm stickin 2 it.

 

[VIPER]

alot of people dont relize a battery can say 12 or 14 volts and be deader then a door nail. It is the amps that is important. You cant check this without the proper equipment. A 7 year old battery is too old. I bet its got weak cores and i also bet its half shot. I would lean towards the battery or a juice problem myself. As you accelerate the bike needs more juice to burn off the fuel. If you dont have the juice available then it is going to flood out which seems to describe the troubles you are having. Put the meter on the battery. Start the bike. Have a friend turn on lights brights turn signals etc. Fully load the battery with draw. I bet it doesnt stay at 14 volts. I bet it drops to 12 or lower. Now think about the draw under acceleration.....Its going to be even higher as the injectors have to work harder and the fuel pump etc. I would seriously try the new batt before you go any further.

I would also run the bike at night with no lights on around you and just look at the motor without the plastics on....Look for arcs etc. Anything that could be grounding out, sparking, the likes.

 

[2Wheels2Live]

My 03LE has the original battery going strong, but I've had it on a battery tender non-stop whenever its not being ridden. 7 years is a long time for a battery unless its been maintained perfectly. And if this battery hasn't pretty much lived on a tender I'd say its time is probably about done. Dying batteries can cause symptoms you wouldn't believe, especially in these newer, highly electronic bikes of ours And the deceptive little b*stards will even test good with a volt meter just to mess with you. A load test is the best way to go Or just figure after 7 years you got your moneys worth and get a new battery
I also have to add, I'm amazed my battery has lasted as long as it has. And the minute I get any funny business going on, the first thing I'm replacing is my battery

On a side note I've been around wrenching my whole life, and you wouldn't believe the things I've seen guys tear apart and replace to avoid replacing a battery. The work and effort and cussing and money, its been laughable. And in the end, in goes the 80 dollar battery and 15 minutes of time and problem solved. Its like somethings ingrained in guys to avoid replacing a battery at all costs. Must be genetic