Supercharged Gen II

Nice setup. What are the benefits of a supercharged engine over a Turbo charged engine. Does the supercharged motors require less maintenance?
 
Do you mind explaining this please...?

Sure no problem.The Auto Tune module connects to an expansion port on the Power Commander 5. It uses a wide band oxygen sensor (that you install in the exhaust system) to read the exhaust and determine the air fuel ratio that the engine is currently burning at by taking readings and inputing it into the PCv (Power Commander 5).

The PCV looks at the data stream from the auto tune and makes fuel changes on the fly based on what you have predetermined to be the optimal AFR (air fuel ratio) for that particular throttle and RPM within your fuel map.

It is kind of like driving around on a real world dyno that keeps adjusting your fueling to a predetermined Target AFR. When it makes changes it creates a table of trims that look allot like your fuel map. The next time you look at your data on your PCV (after a ride)you will have the option of applying those trims to your fuel table and zeroing the trims. Eventually the trims become smaller and smaller as your map becomes more accurate.

You start with the trims turned up so that the PCV can make large changes (up to 40% +- to fueling). as your map needs less and less change you turn down the trims to say 5% +-. That way if something happens like you get an exhaust leak and introduce a bunch of fresh air into the exhaust, it wont set the fuel to full rich to try and compensate and leave you with fouled plugs.

But....Rich never hurts your engine. Lean mixtures burn stuff up and cause detonation.

I hope that explains things better.

Those thinking you can burn anything up because of an auto tune module without intentionally doing really crazy things within the settings (and most likely outside the limits within the software) just don't understand how it works. The whole idea is to keep it safe and running at an optimal state of tune.

Jeff
 
The same: more oil changes every 4000 km/2500 miles.
Stronger drive chain needed, etc...
(I suggest Pro-Oiler as a companion)

Positive: no turbo-lag, typically starts lower rpm, more linear boost (depends)
Negative: add $1000 to price
 
Sure no problem.The Auto Tune module connects to an expansion port on the Power Commander 5. It uses a wide band oxygen sensor (that you install in the exhaust system) to read the exhaust and determine the air fuel ratio that the engine is currently burning at by taking readings and inputing it into the PCv (Power Commander 5).

The PCV looks at the data stream from the auto tune and makes fuel changes on the fly based on what you have predetermined to be the optimal AFR (air fuel ratio) for that particular throttle and RPM within your fuel map.

It is kind of like driving around on a real world dyno that keeps adjusting your fueling to a predetermined Target AFR. When it makes changes it creates a table of trims that look allot like your fuel map. The next time you look at your data on your PCV (after a ride)you will have the option of applying those trims to your fuel table and zeroing the trims. Eventually the trims become smaller and smaller as your map becomes more accurate.

You start with the trims turned up so that the PCV can make large changes (up to 40% +- to fueling). as your map needs less and less change you turn down the trims to say 5% +-. That way if something happens like you get an exhaust leak and introduce a bunch of fresh air into the exhaust, it wont set the fuel to full rich to try and compensate and leave you with fouled plugs.

But....Rich never hurts your engine. Lean mixtures burn stuff up and cause detonation.

I hope that explains things better.

Those thinking you can burn anything up because of an auto tune module without intentionally doing really crazy things within the settings (and most likely outside the limits within the software) just don't understand how it works. The whole idea is to keep it safe and running at an optimal state of tune.

Jeff

No offense but I understand how they work. I've used the auto tune systems, I was just curious how you are tuning it? Are you doing these runs on the dyno or street? Starting fat and leaning her out or what?
 
No offense but I understand how they work. I've used the auto tune systems, I was just curious how you are tuning it? Are you doing these runs on the dyno or street? Starting fat and leaning her out or what?

Sorry I guess I misunderstood what you asked. It is also hard to know what everybody's level of understanding is. No insult intended.

Well for safety reasons (especially at full throttle) we thought it prudent to tune on the Dyno. We did use the auto tune but it initially needed so much additional fuel that it was out of range of the auto tune. We weren't getting any trims. Just stupid lean. 1st pull only net about 250 BHP. The more fuel we added the more we got out of it. when we hit the range of the auto tune it started making trims. But at the same time we were graphing AFR to RPM so we could see exactly at any given RPM range if it needed +- fuel. We tuned at 100%, 80%, 60%, 40%, 20%, 15%, 10%, 5% and 2% along with setting target AFR at idle to be just a touch rich (to help keep it cool @ idle).

It is still running a bit lean at full throttle above 9500 RPM (14.5 - 1) but fuel is maxed out, thus the reason for needing additional fuel pressure.

Once I get the fueling right it will require another trip to the dyno.

What is amazing though is just how well mannered it is on the street. Possibly the nicest street bike I have ever ridden. You do however need to re calibrate you throttle hand to a much lower expectation of what is required to do anything. Keep in mind, it makes 250 BHP @ 80%, and still over 200 BHP at 60% throttle. Anything over 50% and its Jeckle and Hyde. You will meet it it's evil twin and you better not be snoozing. It may be the last nap you ever take. It is frighteningly quick when you ask it to be.

It is a bike that needs to be ridden with restraint and respect.

Jeff
 
It is still running a bit lean at full throttle above 9500 RPM (14.5 - 1) but fuel is maxed out, thus the reason for needing additional fuel pressure.

Once I get the fueling right it will require another trip to the dyno.


A bit lean :poke: 14.5 at full throttle and that rpm... thats asking for trouble. Care to post a a/f graph so we all can see.
 
A bit lean :poke: 14.5 at full throttle and that rpm... thats asking for trouble. Care to post a a/f graph so we all can see.

Yes I know... The reason why I am making changes...... But, if you can hold full throttle at 9500 RPM + for more that a second or two in any gear on the street, then chances are your going to have more serious problems potentially with your health and law enforcement than the mechanical issues.

This is still a work in progress.
 
Correction !!!!!! "makes 250 BHP @ 80%, and still over 200 BHP at 60% throttle."

Make that: makes 290 BHP @ 80%, over 250 BHP at 60% and still over 200BHP at 40% throttle.
 
I'm trying to warn you that the auto tune doesn't work as good as people think. Be careful and don't melt stuff in the process... ;)
 
Also be careful- too rich and you can knock ring lands out if/when it detonates. With forged pistons it's better to run slightly too lean than way too rich, as you'll just melt a hole in the center instead of taking the bore out with it, too.
 
Also be careful- too rich and you can knock ring lands out if/when it detonates. With forged pistons it's better to run slightly too lean than way too rich, as you'll just melt a hole in the center instead of taking the bore out with it, too.

You got it backwards. In the industry we have a saying..."rich is safe". Rich engines may load up and run poorly but the added fuel lowers combustion temperatures. That is why when you tune an air cooled V twin with fuel injection you setup the rear cylinder richer. It helps it to run cooler.

Yes a rich engine burns more fuel, but it burns it much less efficiently and it resembles more of a slower more controlled burn rather than an explosion.

There are a few ways to stop an engine from detonating, Timing, fuel (making it richer), dropping compression, octane and decreasing intake temperature to name a few.

When you compress air you increase it's temp. That is why inter-coolers are so prevalent with turbos and superchargers. Water or alcohol injection do the same thing along with changing the octane of the mix to some degree.
 
Hi, Awesome build up... do you have the upgraded fuel system and new tune in yet ?

I'd like to feature this rid on my website... let me know...

-Haitham
 
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