Another Run at Fork Seals

Curious if there was a reason why you removed the alan from the bottom for draining? I never touch that when I do mine, I simply just dump the fluid then pump it.

Just want to make sure I am not missing something here.
 
You can't replace the seals unless you separate the upper and lower. To do this, the bolt on the bottom that secures the spring cartridge must be removed.

isiahstites said:
Curious if there was a reason why you removed the alan from the bottom for draining? I never touch that when I do mine, I simply just dump the fluid then pump it.

Just want to make sure I am not missing something here.
Click to expand...
 
Charlie's method works wonderfully well for the guy who only has basic tools. Street guys are well served and the process is very basic and easy-squeezy. If you are racing and about to do your first AMA race at Road Atlanta you are better served to do it by Suzuki's manual. The only way to be deadly accurate with the oil level is to remove the fork cap & spring so you can measure the oil level properly.

Using the "Charlie Method" when filling the fork oil via a measuring cup the oil level is never perfect. It's a guess and by golly. Which is great for the every day guy, close works just fine. You can adjust the oil level by a full ounce without any issues. What you should take into consideration when measuring the oil is how much oil is left in the cartridge? You can never get it completely clean. The volume of oil recommended by Suzuki is for a completely dry fork. I have learned that it's best to slightly reduce the amount of oil when the fork is wet. Over filling will cause the pressure inside the fork to increase and may shorten the life of your fresh seals.

Once the cartridge is out, lay a rag on the floor and pump the pis s out of that puppy until no oil shows on the rag (First tip the cartridge upside down to drain the tube). Get all the oil out that you possibly can.

There are benefits to adjusting the oil level up or down in some cases but I won't clutter up Charlies thread with lengthy details.

Good thread Charlie!
 
Twobrothersbusa said:
You can't replace the seals unless you separate the upper and lower. To do this, the bolt on the bottom that secures the spring cartridge must be removed.
Click to expand...

Well maybe your 100 forks and the busa forks are different because I have done a lot of busa forks and never once has that bottom bolt come out. I remove the forks from the bike, remove cap screw at the top of the fork and slide the top off after dumping the oil, then replace the seals, rinse and repeat.
 
isiahstites said:
Well maybe your 100 forks and the busa forks are different because I have done a lot of busa forks and never once has that bottom bolt come out. I remove the forks from the bike, remove cap screw at the top of the fork and slide the top off after dumping the oil, then replace the seals, rinse and repeat.
Click to expand...

Isiah: If you're not sliding the spring assembly out of the shock tube, how are you draining it of oil properly? Can you pump it IN the tube? Just trying to figure out how you're doing it, since I dont have an impact currently to get that bottom bolt off...
 
Argilbertson said:
Isiah: If you're not sliding the spring assembly out of the shock tube, how are you draining it of oil properly? Can you pump it IN the tube? Just trying to figure out how you're doing it, since I dont have an impact currently to get that bottom bolt off...
Click to expand...

If you don't have an air compressor and impact you can buy a cordless impact at Loews Or Homedepot... even a cordeless drill with a hammer feature works well for removing the lower fork bolt.
 
Argilbertson said:
Isiah: If you're not sliding the spring assembly out of the shock tube, how are you draining it of oil properly? Can you pump it IN the tube? Just trying to figure out how you're doing it, since I dont have an impact currently to get that bottom bolt off...
Click to expand...


After the top of the is taken off (this is where you make preload adjustments) you can remove the spring and the spacer and then just poor the oil out of the fork. I then have a tool that I attach to the top of the assembly that allows me to pump the fork and further get more oil out of the system. I then do the seals, add in new oil and I measure to the top of the fork, I DO NOT just add in 512ml, I measure from the top of the fork so that both forks have equal oil in them, for the busa it's like 94mm's I believe. Then I reassemble. This is per the Hayabusa manual. I am getting ready to do a set here in the next few weeks and I will do a write up on busa forks if you guys would like.

Scott
 
isiahstites said:
After the top of the is taken off (this is where you make preload adjustments) you can remove the spring and the spacer and then just poor the oil out of the fork. I then have a tool that I attach to the top of the assembly that allows me to pump the fork and further get more oil out of the system. I then do the seals, add in new oil and I measure to the top of the fork, I DO NOT just add in 512ml, I measure from the top of the fork so that both forks have equal oil in them, for the busa it's like 94mm's I believe. Then I reassemble. This is per the Hayabusa manual. I am getting ready to do a set here in the next few weeks and I will do a write up on busa forks if you guys would like.

Scott
Click to expand...

you can never have too many how-tos! :)
 
How do you take the cap off the spring assembly?

isiahstites said:
Well maybe your 100 forks and the busa forks are different because I have done a lot of busa forks and never once has that bottom bolt come out. I remove the forks from the bike, remove cap screw at the top of the fork and slide the top off after dumping the oil, then replace the seals, rinse and repeat.
Click to expand...
 
Well, mine is all done and thanks to twobrothersbusa, GixxerHP, Tufbusa for all answering PMs and most offering a phone call which was cool. If anyone jumping into this job has a question I am no expert BUT for the close enough option I just went through it really well so feel free. Now..... I have seen lots of questions on the board about how to lift the front end and there are many ways to do it but if a stem stand isnt available then this is what I did with zero issues just be careful. Also if using a stem stand they can wobble so pay attention to the rod I have going through the swingarm pivot sitting on jack stands! I did that for side to side stability jsut in case I bumped her to hard moving around. Turned out to never move but cant be too careful with our pride and joys.

While I had mine apart I did plugs and airfilter too. Why not she had enough miles on her where it was needed. I left the right side plastics on the bike. Had plenty of room to work with the left sides off.

20130430_205739_zps4afd8cff.jpg

20130509_213654_zps929345fa.jpg

20130507_214734_zps971c66c2.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Mine have been leaking for awhile now. I think around 1500 miles. I tried to call it a manufacturer defect. they didn't want to hear it. I'm just thinking to myself if they started leaking at 1500 miles are they going to start leaking again once I get about that many miles on it? Is there a better seal to put in them? I only have 4200 miles on my bike.
 
I'm needing to replace the seals on my 03, but there's something about this how to that's still got me confused...how are you supposed to get the oil back into the cartridge assembly? you guys say that after I disassemble the tube from the cartridge I need to pump the cartridge to purge the trapped oil in it, but how are you refilling it without opening it up?
 
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