You asked for it. Goldwing Bike Porn

[TallTom]

I had been posting some of my Goldwing projects on the "What did you do to your other bike thread."

@sixpack577 suggested I start it's own thread. I can't call it a build thread since I'm not building it. I'm mostly just resurrecting it from its barn resting spot. Which I have done. Since then I am updating it with some tech and upgrading other parts.
Which is where this installment will start this thread. I bought it with an upgraded front suspension done by Traxion Dynamics.

It has a stock rear suspension. Which wasn't the best even when new, but now that it has me at 230 lbs., add a passenger and a pull behind camper and you run out of suspension pretty easy. So I went on the hunt to upgrade my suspension. As luck would have it I got a call from a trike shop offering me an aftermarket rear shock that they didn't know what it was. They sent pics. I couldn't buy it fast enough. It was a tear shock assembly built by Traxion.

So here that is.

I needed to get a small bushing for it. And I bought a protective sock for it.

So now the porn part. In order to change the rear shock you can go the Honda Shop Manual route, which removes it from the top. Or there have been others that have figured out how to drop it out the bottom. But nobody has documented that option. So I'm going the Shop Manual route. Because it's step by step and it also allows for some "while you are in there" things you can't do any other way unless the shock is removed. But I won't lie, it's a pretty big project.

So step 1: Remove seat. Easy. 15 mins.

Step 2: Remove Top Shelter. I've done this before so it's way easier since I've been here. Still. It's an hour. It's actually 2 big pieces. The meter shelter and the electronics shelter. You can see me separating these two here. The part with all the controls is on the lower part of the pic.

Here is what we see after this was done.

Next we get to the hard chyt. Removal of fuel tank. To do that you have to remove battery, battery box, and main fuse block.

So my brand new Lithium battery gets to come out again

Box.

That upper left black part, is the very back of the fuel tank. That frame the battery box sat on also serves as the rear perch for the fuel tank. So that needs to come out.

I will take a pic of it. But at this point I can actually see part of the shock assembly. About one coil worth. Lol

I'll add more tomorrow. I had to stop here and go to work.

I'm 2.5 hours in at this point. The tank will take awhile more. Somehow it comes out. But I'm far from there yet. At least I can start to see parts of the shock now.

 

[TallTom]

It's like I imagine the feeling when a climber sees the first sight of the peak of Everest.

The first sign of a shock absorber.

And for such a simple looking thing and what I thought would be an easy step, getting the battery box base/rear tank perch out was a few pretty choice non biblical uses of the Lord's name to finally get it out.

But it has to come out as the tank needs that space to sort of drop down into in order to give it wiggle space.

So here is what the tank looks like in its home.

And here is what it looks like homeless.

It's really a study in efficiency when you stare at it. Honda essentially made a rigid bladder that covers 3 levels. And it also has that mother effin bulge you see in the upper right of the pic. That fills a space in the frame and adds to a little more way to find capacity to give you more range.

The tank actually has 2 level sensors. Upper and lower. The lower gets very precise compared to the upper. When your warning light comes on you have a gallon, when it flashes you have about a quart. It doesn't eff around telling you it's time to refuel. And the entire tank was designed to keep the bike's CG down low. Now I marvel at the thought they put into it.

But I digress. That bulge was an unbelievable PITA to work out how to get it out. It actually protrudes past the frame. And the opposite side of the tank touches the frame.

It was recommended you remove tank with about a gallon of fuel left in it. This made no sense. Until now. To get this biotch out you have to lift the upper tank up to about a 45° angle. The weight of that fuel now acts as just enough weight to hold that position. Because the next step involves a rotation of the tank to the right (clockwise to front of bike). You need to have your hands available to do this. So a slight rotation right so that bulbous protrusion can drop down into the space you made by the perch removal. And if you hold your mouth just right, the fuel moves to the bulb and viola it helps hold it there. Those Jap engineers now have my mad respect in this moment of time. So you rotate right, drop it down and now you sort of have to roll it right while lifting so that bulb can clear the frame.

Now I'm not a female. I've never been pregnant nor given birth. But the contortions this tank has to go through to come out of there is about how I imagine childbirth to be.

I asked a Goldwing Owner before I started this, that had to remove the tank to change the starter, for tips. I thought he was chyting me when he said slather it with CRISCO. He's not. It's an unbelievably tight clearance. You swear the tank can't take it. But again they made it out of plastic for a reason. It also gives a little when you learn how to use just the right amount of muscle.

It was a biotch. But I respect the biotch a lot more than when I started.

So now we get into serious bike porn.

Here is what it looks like with the tank finally out.

My jubilant mood was short lived. Before we get to the shock absorber porn, we get to look at the nest of coolant hoses that reside in the belly of this bike. And there is no way you can ever access these unless you remove the tank.

There are 30 hose clamps to be checked. There has been some owners that have said over time the hose clamps need about a quarter turn tighter as the original vulcanized rubber slightly loses a little density. They have been known to develop very slight leaks. As in you can very faintly smell coolant, but you never see it and it takes months to require a slight top off of coolant. So this will be tedious and slow patience to work through all of these. It's an organized bowl of spaghetti. My initial inspection shows all the rubber is pliable, not showing signs of deteriorating, still springy. All of the factory markings are still visible and they seem to have some sort of shellac like coating that was there from production. This where I start to learn more respect. They are completely sheltered from sunlight, fuel, road hazards, and all the things exposed rubber loses it's life to. They all sort of lay in a way where they don't vibrate around or rub against anything. There is actually rubber little pads they rest on to keep friction rubs eliminated.

This will be my first "while I'm in here" side job to complete.

That's all for now.

Remember we need time to recover after childbirth.

I'll save the shock absorber porn for later.

 

[TallTom]

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[TallTom]

Glad I did the hose clamp inspection. Every coolant clamp needed at least a quarter turn to hit that "snug" feel. No signs of any coolant escaping, but I can sure see how it could over time. Very happy I learned about this inspection! That was a very valuable side job while I was in here.

Here is another "while you are in here". On occasion and almost always on older bikes owners get weird electrical things. The audio starts to develop a buzz/hum, weird engine codes get set but the sensors all test good when you troubleshoot. Even the cruise control would intermittently disengage. Not to a specific mileage, it seems more from age. There is absolutely nothing in the manual that discusses this

So this is hidden in the belly of the beast.

The 1st pic is how you see it after tank is removed.

If you're not looking for it, you'd easily miss that little green wire you can just make out here in the center.

Now move those 2 hoses out of the way and it gets a little more interesting.

Then if you look below you see this.

There are 3 ground lugs that come together here from separate places. This is referred to in the bike electrical schematics as G1. Nowhere else is it mentioned.

Here is what happens. Much like a battery, the lugs get corroded. What happens is the actual mounting bolt corrodes and it migrates to the the lugs. Build up resistance and you start getting all the electrical weirdness. Even though I have no corrosion, I removed my bolt and replaced it with a stainless one. When I was doing this I noticed that they used Blue Loctite to lock that bolt in. So I ran a tap down and chased the threads. Ran some Acetone down the hole and cleaned it all up. I want solid metal to metal all the way. I used one of my 18 gauge needles and a syringe and I injected at the very bottom a dab of blue Loc-Tite. The bolt threads at the bottom will get that adhesion help. The threads above will be all clean metal to clean metal contact.

There is no water that can get up there, but if you lived in a salty climate I could see that starting the process. I also think a lower grade of steel is susceptible to some galvanization with the lugs.

So now that I got these "while I'm in heres" done, we can get back to shock porn.

With the tank out, we have this glorious sight!

I'm now about 12 hours in.

 

[michael parris heuberger]

Glad I did the hose clamp inspection. Every coolant clamp needed at least a quarter turn to hit that "snug" feel. No signs of any coolant escaping, but I can sure see how it could over time. Very happy I learned about this inspection! That was a very valuable side job while I was in here.

Here is another "while you are in here". On occasion and almost always on older bikes owners get weird electrical things. The audio starts to develop a buzz/hum, weird engine codes get set but the sensors all test good when you troubleshoot. Even the cruise control would intermittently disengage. Not to a specific mileage, it seems more from age. There is absolutely nothing in the manual that discusses this

So this is hidden in the belly of the beast.

The 1st pic is how you see it after tank is removed.
View attachment 1675874

If you're not looking for it, you'd easily miss that little green wire you can just make out here in the center.

Now move those 2 hoses out of the way and it gets a little more interesting.
View attachment 1675875

Then if you look below you see this.

View attachment 1675876
There are 3 ground lugs that come together here from separate places. This is referred to in the bike electrical schematics as G1. Nowhere else is it mentioned.

Here is what happens. Much like a battery, the lugs get corroded. What happens is the actual mounting bolt corrodes and it migrates to the the lugs. Build up resistance and you start getting all the electrical weirdness. Even though I have no corrosion, I removed my bolt and replaced it with a stainless one. When I was doing this I noticed that they used Blue Loctite to lock that bolt in. So I ran a tap down and chased the threads. Ran some Acetone down the hole and cleaned it all up. I want solid metal to metal all the way. I used one of my 18 gauge needles and a syringe and I injected at the very bottom a dab of blue Loc-Tite. The bolt threads at the bottom will get that adhesion help. The threads above will be all clean metal to clean metal contact.

There is no water that can get up there, but if you lived in a salty climate I could see that starting the process. I also think a lower grade of steel is susceptible to some galvanization with the lugs.

So now that I got these "while I'm in heres" done, we can get back to shock porn.

With the tank out, we have this glorious sight!
View attachment 1675877

View attachment 1675878

View attachment 1675879

I'm now about 12 hours in.

Hi. Nice work you are on it

 

[TallTom]

Normally a shock removal would be removed top mount bolt. Remove the bottom mount bolt.

Not having that simplicity on a Goldwing.

Nope.

Remove right saddlebag.

Been here before. You can just move it out of the way to get to the actuator assembly.

But you still have to remove the rear fender.

Then you can get to the actuator

Then you get to do the standard removal of the shock.

Now we get to be reminded of the lusciousness going in. In all her dressed up glory.

Welcome to your new home darling.

 

[TallTom]

Everything back together shock wise. One last while you are in here item. The Wing is very deliberate in weatherproofing it's bits. One thing I noticed the 1st time I took off the seat was how much dirt makes its way all the way up to the seat and all the under seat area. It was black with grime. Not wet just collected dirt. Everywhere under the pan. Cleaned it all up under there. That took a few hours. Otherwise if I ever have to get under there on the road somewhere, you'll get grimey doing it. Not the most convenient thing to deal with if you can avoid it.

What I did was put a vacuum hose in reverse and see where I felt air coming up. And plugged them.

Basically if I could see light from below, I plugged it. Bought a 2ft square piece of 3/4 thick foam rubber.

Before pic shows where it leaked air.

And after pics. Plugged up.

Next up. How much crap can you pack in the parts that are meant to be packed.

 

[SSGT_B]

Nice work buddy.

 

[TallTom]

Nice work buddy.

Well look who's posting. Hope you are feeling better!

I can say, I have no idea how well it's working until I put some miles on it and then have a reason to remove the seat again. It's not particularly difficult. It's just a process that's meant to be done for unscheduled maintenance. It may not work at all for all I know. But for as few a miles it had it was amazing the sludge that built up under there. You couldn't even make out the fuse map posted on the relay cover.

 

[Oz22]

I never asked for it? But thanks anyway, fascinating look into the Darkside

 

[TallTom]

I never asked for it? But thanks anyway, fascinating look into the Darkside

One mans porn is another mans horror.

 

[TallTom]

Now we get to finally see what a Goldwing is made for. Hauling you and your stuff for days.

What can you pack in one of these. My goal is be on the road for more than 30 days at a time. And while I don't proclaim to know every scenario to plan for, I think I've planned for all I can want to ride through. If I find I'm not prepared or for instance don't want to ride in snow, I just won't ride in that event. Or I can buy something I may have left out. I have extra room allowed.

And this was a good week to think weather changes through. Last Wed it was 17 and clear. Today it's 71 and raining. I'd plan on riding through both. And in mountains that's not at all unheard of.

So here is what a month looks like.
Not including what I'd have on my person riding. (ie I'd be wearing one type jacket and packing the one I'm not wearing. Also some of this stays constant. Like rain gear. It's always packed. Used or not.

My base wear, what I wear daily, I break it up into a series of 5 day trips. You do laundry on the 5th day.

My base wear.

Shoes are when I'm not riding. Lightweight, foldable, washable, waterproof. Function over fashion.

Base wear compressed.

1 bag for each day. Pop out a bag each day. Done. 4 bags. I could make them thinner is I needed to. You get the idea.



Bag 1 is the bag that for 4 days is the only thing I need at the end of the day. Base wear, plus personal care, (shaving etc) plus shoes, plus jeans.

Bag 1.

You already saw how I set up the dead spaces that are now behind this. And I also have nook and crannies rear of this for more. Tire patching kits etc are kept there.

Bag 2 contains the when I need it items. I got the following in there. Long johns, jacket liners, 2nd pair of opposite weather riding pants, some extra jeans and a shirt for if I need a collar at a restaurant etc. I forgot to include(Not pictured). It comes out on occasion as needed. Here is what all I got into Bag 2. Except the gloves. That comes later. The other pair of riding pants is in the previous picture.

Bag 2 in bike.

Next was the rain gear.

Electronics

In bike

Next to these is the opposite weather extra jacket. This is the rear trunk. I didn't show the electronics plugged into the power port just to the right. You'll have to use your imagination.

As an alternative I can also open up a bit more top space if needed.

I still have this much free space. This is free all the way across the trunk. I plan on that being used by the bike half cover. I can re-arrange all sorts of ways to make more room.

Now back to the gloves mentioned earlier. I decided to cheat a little here. I didn't want to be digging around in the back for gloves. Or tire gauges. Or frequent incidental small items. There is nobody that make a tank bag for the Goldwing because of all the controls splashed across the tank cover. So I improvised a Cortech bag I had. Most of the functions I need to change are located on the hand controls anyway. So I can live with that. The biggest compromise was re-fueling. So here is how this worked out. The bag was nearly perfect front to back. Some minor tweaks and you get this.

The little black bungees hold it perfectly from sliding side to side. But give if I need them to. Now I can load up the tank bag with all my gloves, and the pile of little things you need ready access to all the time, tire gauges, windshield wipes, etc. etc etc. A TON of crap can go here instead of filling up cubbys everywhere else.

Time to re-fuel. Or by chance need to access a control, you get this. I even found a little anchor point on the windscreen made for the job.

For me traveling alone this is plenty of space.

Carrying a passenger, which I plan on, will require the top luggage rack that is currently unused, becoming the home for things like rain gear, liners, etc. You buy and bag that is pretty much designed to go there and use it for the bulky light stuff. So all the girl stuff can be put in the bags inside.

I think I have covered the Goldwing journey that got me here. I know @sixpack577 was keen on seeing this. If I have left out anything of interest, let me know. I will probably need more tweaks. But I have Mac Daddied the suspension, seat. and electronics that weren't stock. The rest should hopefully be all as the GoldWing Gods intended her to be. Long miles of road sofa.

The Busa looks tiny sitting next the the Wing!

 

[sixpack577]

Wow
Yes sir, I have enjoyed the pictures and how-to's, and appreciate the info.
I will be buying a GW at some point, maybe by summer.

 

[TallTom]

Wow
Yes sir, I have enjoyed the pictures and how-to's, and appreciate the info.
I will be buying a GW at some point, maybe by summer.

Or hold off a year and I may know where you can buy a good one. All set up.

 

[LC4CARL]

I had a GL once. Terrible dirt bikes...

 

[TallTom]

I had a GL once. Terrible dirt bikes...

View attachment 1676750

Could be just the rider.

 

[LC4CARL]

Could be just the rider.

Hahahaha

 

[TallTom]

Did a 800 miler over the long weekend. 275 up, 275 back, 250 at destination. It was my first trip so to speak. Everything loaded up fine. Bike ran flawlessly. It gave me a chance to tweak and debug. Got the tire pressures dialed in. Love the tire temp feature on the TPMS.

The only debug left is I put a Bluetooth adapter before the trip so I could pipe all the audio into my helmet. It has picked up an audible alternator whine now. I'll find the fix for that.

Other than that, she clocked 42 MPG @ 80. Sort of a funny chapter. I happened to fuel up at the same time 3 Harleys were fueling up. At the base of the mountains before everyone heads home. We had the same state plates so we got to chatting. I was going farther south but we would share the same stretch of interstate for 170 miles. One guy asked "Hey how many miles to a tank on that thing?" I said 240 is about when I get my warning light.

"How fast are you running?". I kidded around and said, Somewhat faster than a Harley.

Apparently the gauntlet had been thrown by that.

We all pulled out together and merged into the interstate. Three of them, one of me. I purposely let them set the pace at first. But I'd bump up the cruise control bump by bump gradually. They'd not let me pass. They'd stay ahead. But we eventually had bumped up the cruise to about 90. They weren't going to let a Wing overtake. So I bumped it up to 93 indicated and we settled on that. And we cruised. They peeled off at 140 miles. I suspect they needed fuel, because they had not made it to the city they said they were headed to. I have no idea the capacity of a Harley fuel tank. I couldn't manage 240, but she managed 200 with no warning light and I stopped for my bladder at a Flying J. As soon as 3K RPM is exceeded the MPG starts to suffer.

I need more of these trips in my life. Weather was perfection.

Found a pretty cool spot.

Rattlesnake Saloon.

 

[michael parris heuberger]

Did a 800 miler over the long weekend. 275 up, 275 back, 250 at destination. It was my first trip so to speak. Everything loaded up fine. Bike ran flawlessly. It gave me a chance to tweak and debug. Got the tire pressures dialed in. Love the tire temp feature on the TPMS.

The only debug left is I put a Bluetooth adapter before the trip so I could pipe all the audio into my helmet. It has picked up an audible alternator whine now. I'll find the fix for that.

Other than that, she clocked 42 MPG @ 80. Sort of a funny chapter. I happened to fuel up at the same time 3 Harleys were fueling up. At the base of the mountains before everyone heads home. We had the same state plates so we got to chatting. I was going farther south but we would share the same stretch of interstate for 170 miles. One guy asked "Hey how many miles to a tank on that thing?" I said 240 is about when I get my warning light.

"How fast are you running?". I kidded around and said, Somewhat faster than a Harley.

Apparently the gauntlet had been thrown by that.

We all pulled out together and merged into the interstate. Three of them, one of me. I purposely let them set the pace at first. But I'd bump up the cruise control bump by bump gradually. They'd not let me pass. They'd stay ahead. But we eventually had bumped up the cruise to about 90. They weren't going to let a Wing overtake. So I bumped it up to 93 indicated and we settled on that. And we cruised. They peeled off at 140 miles. I suspect they needed fuel, because they had not made it to the city they said they were headed to. I have no idea the capacity of a Harley fuel tank. I couldn't manage 240, but she managed 200 with no warning light and I stopped for my bladder at a Flying J. As soon as 3K RPM is exceeded the MPG starts to suffer.

I need more of these trips in my life. Weather was perfection.

Found a pretty cool spot.

Rattlesnake Saloon.

View attachment 1681276

Hi. Wow that was cool. Very well set up too. Wel planed.I may want to do that when I get old.

 

[sixpack577]

Glad to hear the Goldwing did so well, not suprisingly.
I think I'll get one in the next few months, I've been looking at several of the 1800's for a while now.
Prices seem to vary widely here, and they either sell in a week, or usually 3 months, it's a strange market.
I'll find one I can't say no to eventually.