Yoshimura Camshafts Part# SURX 341

OB_KawAbuser

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Camshafts are on there way yo the USA, these are stage 1 with the adjustable sprockets installed.

Part # SURX 341 - Retail $700

They should be available in three weeks once they clear US Customs
 
Yoshimura camshaft stage-1
part # 211-502-0100

Intake:

9.0 mm lift - 244 degree duration
(102 degree L.C.)

.20 tappet clearance

20 degrees open / 44 degrees close

Exhaust:

7.8 mm lift - 230 degree duration
(105 degree L.C.)

.20 tappet clearance

40 degrees open / 10 degrees close

Cam sprocket are adjustable and are installed

Intake: 20 degree - open, 44 degree - close
Exhaust: 40 degree - open, 10 degree - close

They are shipped installed for stock motor.
 
i've talked to a few people about these cams and from what i here they are going to be one of the better cams to buy for the busa.

only bad thing is.......the price!

it's a shame that a company like yosh
has to get that caried away.
 
No Frank nothing was meant at all, I was trying to say that the Part was developed from a road racing application.

Cams for drag racing are differant YES/NO?

What I am getting to is that nobody until Yoshimura-Japan, offered a cam for the Hayabusa as a production part. Are there other companies selling Busa cams now?

The only thing I ever read here was that the guys changing cams were either at the salt flats or at the drag strip. (Web custom spec)

Is it not Web who makes cams for most aftermarket companies in the US.

These Yosh cams are made in Japan developed from road racing - simple as that.


Frank relax you read too much into the post.

Frank I am to blame, I am sarcastic at times but not this time. I never really mean anything by it, I am just trying to lighter up what could be boreing tech bla, bla, bla.

[This message has been edited by KawAbuser (edited 10 October 1999).]
 
mslater: rough estament...depending on your piston & head setup, you'll probably see around 6 to 10 hp gain, if not more.

are there any other opinions on this?

come on....let's hear'em guy's
 
Frank I personally would not go to the trouble of just cams only...I would want 1-2mm over valves on both sides,probably springs with titanium retainers and good port job and may even take 10-20 thousands off head if using stock pistons. I would use a good quality stainlees valve also..none of this junk you see floating around made in China now. Remember the small diameter stems that these busa`s have.There is no way that the cam sprockets will be set correctly..it will only take couple hours to set them right..its easy on Suzuki as compared to a old shim motor. My 2 cents..its like #@$%-holes ever one has one don`t they.....by the way with what I`ve described I would guess maybe 15-20 more ponies....hopefully more.
 
No core charge, they are not sold that way.

They are made from new billets, not rewelded cores.

The info I posted is what the paperwork said, includeing the part about cam timming. I only offered what info was included with the cams.

The cams will be checked out with a degree wheel at time of install.

So are there other options besides a Web custom? anybody?
 
I haven`t checked yet but mega-cycle usually has the best regrinds on stock cores...I like thier lob centers better. I`ll check into that.
 
Frank, the parts are made by Yosh-Japan and are subject to import duties and costs which doesn't help.

They also arrive installed with adjustable sprockets correctly set for a stock motor(valves, head, deck height)

The sprocket alone are worth $180.

Still not cheap, but who else has been racing a Busa on a road track. And for my needs a road race derived part makes more sense than a drag race part.

We will know in a week, they are going in at time of the Tensioner Recall.
 
what the hell?....who or where....wait a minute. did i miss something? you lost me again.
what did my comment have to do with a drag or road race issue?

are these cams not for use in a dragrace application?
or did you just want us to know what your passion was?

yea...there is nothing wrong with a roadracer. is there?

i just voiced my opinion on the price.

just like a person would think that a power commander 2 was priced high, but i believe that after he or she recieved it and saw just what all they could do with it, they would surely see that it was money well spent.
 
maui: the stock camshafts specs are: intake lift 8.5mm, exhaust lift 7.2mm and they have similar duration as the Yosh st.1 cams.
And at the Paris show I spoke with some people from Yosh Japan about the stage R camshafts, right now the numbers was 9.5mm/ 7.8mm for stage R but they couldn`t say when/if the stage R is ready for sale.
 
cbx-chris: where have you been?

yea...i'll agree, i would go with some head work first. you'll see more proformance gain from doing your head over the others. unless you cheet, and do the nitrous thing.

let me tell ya....after doing the bigger valves and head work on mine, it sucks some major air now. i really can't get enough fuel to it with the yosh program. yes, i have a pw2, but i need to try to find somebody kinda local with a yosh box so i re-set it to the stock settings before i can go with the pw2.

i'm trying to find a adapter for my compression guage, one that will fit these spark plugs.
i think the cam chain tensioner broke on me the other day and let it jump time. if it did there is a good posibility that it might have bent a valve.
i know if it did, then i sure as hell won't put another stock tensioner in there. i'll have a billit one made and let the worries be over.
i'll know more after i get it checked. i should be able to find out tonight.
 
The reason for titanium would be greater strength. With a good cam you would probably run arounf 50lbs of spring pressure...would you trust a aluminum retainer when you can get something better? I have seen numerous alum. retainers let the keepers pull through. By the way talked to J&E today they have thier 2mm over piston in stock...520 dollars retail...also a stock bore piston. Having valves made now for mine...checking on cams..don`t know who I will go with. If it were not for the wrong material in the seat I would run titanium intake valves...just some random thoughts....
 
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