Yoshi RS3 Race Boltons

LongbowIP

Registered
Just ordered a set of YOSHI RS3 Race Bolt ons.  I am wondering if I have to get a power commander or change the map.

I paid 525 out the door including installation.

Also I guess this is late but it wouldn't affect my warrantee will it?

Tony
 
You do not have to get a power commander but one will smooth your throttle response out. Get the cans and try them out, then decide if you think you should get the pc. Also, I removed my pair valve due to some backfiring while decellerating in gear. If you experience any backfiring, you should remove or have your pair valve removed. As for the warranty, I don't have a clue. Sorry....
 
I got mine for $475 and they will not void the warranty. But just to be safe, if you have any problems with the engine and need warranty work, it propably wouldn't hurt to slap the stock cans back on. It just depends on who your dealer is. My dealer said I could put the whole system on but I chose to stick with the bolt-ons for now. I also did not need to remap. It a small flutter when I let off, but not really a backfire. I love mine, hope you'll like yours.
 
Should have checked Parts 411 may have been cheaper...My dealer doesn't care what mods you make as long as it's warranty work...Check with your dealer and make sure their cool like that...
 
By the way...Several guys around here run those bolt ons and they get on down...They also run pc3r's...
 
Well, as with most of the things on this board...Your results may vary...BUT, I spoke to my dealer about a full system, removing the PAIR, and and a power commander, in regards to my warranty.  He said it's absolutely no problem.  But That is just one dealer...
 You shouldn't need a PC3 with just the slip-ons but as mentioned above it may help.  Then there is that Pesky PAIR... That I think has to be considered on a case by case basis...  There are some pretty good step by steps out here somewhere though that walk you through the removal...

Oh Just curious, but installing bolt ons should take about 10 minutes. How much did you get charged for the install?
 
He did not charge me anything for the install. 525 included the 6% sales tax. The price was going to be the same whether he put them on or I did. He also is painting my CBR 600.

I wil do a search about the pair valve.

Thanks
 
He did not charge me anything for the install.  525 included the 6% sales tax.  The price was going to be the same whether he put them on or I did.  He also is painting my CBR 600.

I wil do a search about the pair valve.  

Thanks
Sounds Like a good deal. So..How do they sound? Let Us know...
 
Personally I would do the PC3r thing. I have the exact same bolt on's and it ran much better after installing the PC3r. Do you need it?....no. Will it run better?.....yes.

Also, I would HIGHLY recommend re-sychronizing the throttle bodies. Because the exhaust flow is now different, the vacuum will be a slightly different as well. You can argue all you want, but I can tell you that mine ran a lot better after I had that done. I will probably do that myself the next time, but the dealer did it as part of the 600 mile service. (Done at 1200 miles with the bolt on's in place.)
 
Personally I would do the PC3r thing. I have the exact same bolt on's and it ran much better after installing the PC3r. Do you need it?....no. Will it run better?.....yes.

[/QUOTE]

Hey Johncal,  With just the bolt ons and no pc will it run better than stock?  In that I mean little things like throttle response or engine smoothness cruising through town?  Also is it hard to synchronize the throttle bodies?  Any speciel tools needed?  A do-it-yourselfer or take-to-shopper?
 
Yes, it will run a little bit better, but not as much as with the PC3r and a sync job. I'd really recommend spending the $350 and getting the PC3r. If nothing else, it's pretty cool to tell your friends you can "program you motorcycle".

Syncronizing the throttle bodies is not that hard a job to do, but you'll need a factory service manual (or the instructions from it) and you'll need the special tool. If you get the manual info, it'll tell you what tool you'll need. You can do it yourself, if you have a good mechanical aptitude and can follow the manual instructions exactly.

If you do all of the above, you'll notice a smoother power delivery, but let me add this. You'll also get much better drivability by just making sure the idle is set to around 1200. Any lower and it has a tendancy to get jerky. Adjusting the idle is easy though. just make sure the engine is thoughroughly warmed up before proceeding to adjust it.

Don't expect the world for smoothness cruising through town. it's like a tiger in a cage, but as you get used to the throttle, it will get better. Also, for cruising in town, stay in the higher gears, you won't get as much usable power so you won't jerk the bike as much. You can always downshift when you need more power.

johncal
 
Back
Top