I bought a set of used yosh cams a little while back, once installed, the bike seemed to ride fine, never beat on it, just neighberhood driving. Then went to get the bike tuned using the tuning link on the dyno. At around 60-70% at about 7k rpm, it started breaking up real bad and cam position sensor code popped up. checked everything, even pulled the cams out and miced them to make sure there was nothing wrong with the cams, measured the cam pin compared to a atock one and everything looked perfect. i installed the stock set and bike was perfect, then went and installed the two intakes and still everything was perfect. i contacted yosh and they could think of what was wrong, took over two months of dealing with them and finally just sent them back to them, they checked them out and called me to tell me the cams were fine, then they proceeded to tell me that even though suzuki says to set the cams at 15 pins on the chain from one sprocket to the other, they set their cams at 14 pins. i never had the 2ND page of instructions and they never mentioned this to me over the phone the numerous times i poke with thier sportbike tech. at least now i know what the problem was, and the cams are on their way back to me now so i can finish putting the motor back together, i had them e mail a complete set of instructions with the proper settings THEY use, if anybody buys used yosh cams and did not recieve the 2 pages of instructions, im me and i will send you them, my cams came with 2 copies of the first page.
Yosh Cam Install Problems
- Thread starter JIMMY
- Start date
wow...not to mention...that "14 pins instead of 15 pins" sounds like a crock of shid to me..it may not be but damn man..i can't for the life of me figure out how the cam-sprocket-cam sprocket cam chain link pin count would differ...unless the cam sprockets on the yosh cams are of a differing diameter...maybe larger for increased leverage in rotating the hotter cam profiles.(JIMMY @ Sep. 30 2007,06:21) I bought a set of used yosh cams a little while back, once installed, the bike seemed to ride fine, never beat on it, just neighberhood driving. Then went to get the bike tuned using the tuning link on the dyno. At around 60-70% at about 7k rpm, it started breaking up real bad and cam position sensor code popped up. checked everything, even pulled the cams out and miced them to make sure there was nothing wrong with the cams, measured the cam pin compared to a atock one and everything looked perfect. i installed the stock set and bike was perfect, then went and installed the two intakes and still everything was perfect. i contacted yosh and they could think of what was wrong, took over two months of dealing with them and finally just sent them back to them, they checked them out and called me to tell me the cams were fine, then they proceeded to tell me that even though suzuki says to set the cams at 15 pins on the chain from one sprocket to the other, they set their cams at 14 pins. i never had the 2ND page of instructions and they never mentioned this to me over the phone the numerous times i poke with thier sportbike tech. at least now i know what the problem was, and the cams are on their way back to me now so i can finish putting the motor back together, i had them e mail a complete set of instructions with the proper settings THEY use, if anybody buys used yosh cams and did not recieve the 2 pages of instructions, im me and i will send you them, my cams came with 2 copies of the first page.
hmmm..weird.
I do know this though...i went through he11 (due to my own old eyes and ignorance) at re-assy/re-timing my stock cams as it was very easy to "Parallex" the timing marks...especially on the Intake side....as the engine is so close to the frame spar that unless you use a mirror and lotsa light?..it's easy to read the intake as "Lined Up" by mistake (read: "parallex")...when in fact it's a tooth off...i went through a comedy of errors with that one..but in the end?...i finally..."GOTT'ER DONE!"
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the only thing i can think of is that the sprockets muxt be a bit larger in diameter that stock cams, this kinda ruined my idea of running the yosh intake and a stock intake on the exhaust side, dont really think different diameter sprockets would work. o well, my thing is when talking to yosh, for over two months about what the problem could be, this 14 pin issue was never brought to my attention, i would have thought this would have been the first thing that would have came up ince i told them i followed the suzuki manual, it would have saved me 2 months of going crazy over this and i could have fixed the problem that day instead of changing cams so many times and sending them back to have evaluated. at least now i know and i can move forward with putting my bike back together once i get the cams back.
JIMMY,
14 pins won't work . Email their supposed two page instructions and I'll look at them for you . I have had three new sets . Install just as factory does .
See that pic up top ? Exhaust cam is slightly off . Line must be deeper down on horizontal alignment with the head to start then stay there as intake is installed and guide bracket then chain tensioner. Turn it over 360 degree's twice then recheck . Both vertical lines should be straight up as well even if the cam sprocket bolts have been loosened and moved .
Your cams were either out of time or someone had moved the sprockets . Do you recall if the paint was broken on the cam sprocket bolts ?
All in all , 15 pins then dial in the desired intake/exhaust lobe centerlines using the lobe center method . Forget Yoshes opening/closing events either intake or exhaust . With that new block your getting , actual cam degreeing is a must IMO .
14 pins won't work . Email their supposed two page instructions and I'll look at them for you . I have had three new sets . Install just as factory does .
See that pic up top ? Exhaust cam is slightly off . Line must be deeper down on horizontal alignment with the head to start then stay there as intake is installed and guide bracket then chain tensioner. Turn it over 360 degree's twice then recheck . Both vertical lines should be straight up as well even if the cam sprocket bolts have been loosened and moved .
Your cams were either out of time or someone had moved the sprockets . Do you recall if the paint was broken on the cam sprocket bolts ?
All in all , 15 pins then dial in the desired intake/exhaust lobe centerlines using the lobe center method . Forget Yoshes opening/closing events either intake or exhaust . With that new block your getting , actual cam degreeing is a must IMO .
Read per Service Manual
Yosh Cams . See the paint dabs that notes the factory has tightened the bolts before placing in their boxes. Thats all it's for .
the sprockets were moved before i bought them, the bike was degreed, and the only instructions i recieved when i got them was the one page that you posted above, actually recieved two copies of that page in original box, figured that was the only instructions, so went with the 15 pin setting that suzuki states, i sent the 2 pages that yosh r&d out in chino CA sent to me
JIMMY ,
I got the pdf and have seen that before . Rare as hen's teeth and not certain those were ever available to the public and certainly do not represent what you would get if buying spanking new Yoshimura Stage 1 cams today .
Look at your timing events vs the card I posted . We both have the same part number as well ...SUXR341 but your's are 250 duration at 1 mm lift Intake - 228 Duration @ 1 mm lift . 9.26 mm lift Intake - 7.6 mm lift Exhaust
Out of all these Yosh cams I have seen the only difference have been the color of the paint on the bolts and later years came with month and date made . All durations @ 1mm and lifts were same as cam card I posted .
I got the pdf and have seen that before . Rare as hen's teeth and not certain those were ever available to the public and certainly do not represent what you would get if buying spanking new Yoshimura Stage 1 cams today .
Look at your timing events vs the card I posted . We both have the same part number as well ...SUXR341 but your's are 250 duration at 1 mm lift Intake - 228 Duration @ 1 mm lift . 9.26 mm lift Intake - 7.6 mm lift Exhaust
Out of all these Yosh cams I have seen the only difference have been the color of the paint on the bolts and later years came with month and date made . All durations @ 1mm and lifts were same as cam card I posted .
Here's what currently available , rather the only cams for the Busa . This is from the Yoshimura Japan site .
Yoshimura Japan Stage 1 Hayabusa cams
And for you last question , I have already explained it the best I know how and thought the job was done pretty well . Good luck .
Yoshimura Japan Stage 1 Hayabusa cams
And for you last question , I have already explained it the best I know how and thought the job was done pretty well . Good luck .
Email ? I posted the cam card already. 1 page only .
Yoshimura USA ------- well , send them the Japanese link
Here's the card one more time - these are the one and only stage 1 Hayabusa cams available .
JIMMY,
There is a back side to the single page I posted but it has to do with priming the chain tensioner by spinning the engine with the electric starter , type oil to use and valve clearance ect.
It's not enough info to warrant scanning and posting and certainly does not have anything about number of pins .
You are going to have to degree those cams . Sorry but it's a must .
From your other post about that block you bought ..... your not going to have compression for jack if using the stock pistons down in the hole some .080 negative deck . I wish I had known or you had posted before ordering . If that block is the std deck block just don't use the .060 spacer .
There is a back side to the single page I posted but it has to do with priming the chain tensioner by spinning the engine with the electric starter , type oil to use and valve clearance ect.
It's not enough info to warrant scanning and posting and certainly does not have anything about number of pins .
You are going to have to degree those cams . Sorry but it's a must .
From your other post about that block you bought ..... your not going to have compression for jack if using the stock pistons down in the hole some .080 negative deck . I wish I had known or you had posted before ordering . If that block is the std deck block just don't use the .060 spacer .
will do, thanks, the pistons are 13:1 or so tall deck mtc and to run turbo/nitrous they recommended the .060 spacer, not sure what the compression works out to be, but it should be a lot higher than the 8:1, since the stock is somewhere in the range of 11:1 i think, it should work out to be the same as stock or highr, just with more material at the top of the piston. i will check over at sh.org thanks
One last thing ,the used cams you have might have slightly turned inside the " cam sprocket adapter " from use of heavy springs and lotsa hi-rpm . I forgot to add the possibility .
If they are tack welded and the welds not broke then obviously thats not the problem .
Gotta go .
If they are tack welded and the welds not broke then obviously thats not the problem .
Gotta go .
captainraymond
Registered
My good lord, that sounds so complicated. I'll just go back to the football game.
Good luck!
Good luck!Similar threads
