yellow box for speedometer calibration

[mikeyusf]

Has anyone bought the yellow bodx to correct the speedometer error? I just went -1 in the front, and now my speedo is WAY off, by at least 10 percent. Has anyone installed these things?

to those who have a yellow box, how do you calibrate it? GPS? Dyno? Were you happy with the results? Let me know

Mike

 

[blas32]

If you are down one in the front your speedo is probably 14% off.  I am -1 in the front and +2 in the back and I am 19% off. I was off 7% with stock gearing.  I used a GPS and took a reading at 60 and 80 mph to find the error.  Plus your odometer is putting miles on that shouldn't be.  I love the yellow box and it is very easy to use.  Has little switches that represent neg. or pos. and 16%,8%,4%,2%,1%,.5%,.25%.  Just switch the ones you need and it stores under the seat.  Best $100 I spent!

 

[bacharles]

I'll be purchasing one for myself real soon.






Brian

 

[STUNNAH]

I don't have one and probably want purchase one...I don't care what the speedo reads...

 

[blas32]

I was more concerned about my odometer reading high than the speedo. I don't want any extra miles on my bike that should not be there.

 

[mikeyusf]

hey blas where did you get your yellow box from?

Mike

 

[blas32]

www.blackrobotics.com

 

[Doc_Busa]

I have one, it is great! A must-have if you change the gearing....

 

[fatjap]

I DID THE INSTALL ACOUPLE OF MONTHS AGO.
I ORIGINALLY BOUGHT IT TO CONVERT KPH TO MPH
BUT SINCE I RECEIVED MY BIKE 2 WEEKS AGO I HAVE BEEN PLAYING WITH THE CALIBRATION. THIS WEEKEND I'M RIDING WITH HOWLIN MAD AND WILL FINE TUNE IT.

I LOVE IT HAD NO PROBLEMS AND IT TOOK ABOUT 45 MINUTES TO INSTALL BUT THATS BECAUSE I SODERED THE
WIRES AND HEAT SHRUNK.

FATJAP

 

[amsctalx]

I LOVE IT HAD NO PROBLEMS AND IT TOOK ABOUT 45 MINUTES TO INSTALL BUT THATS BECAUSE I SODERED THE
WIRES AND HEAT SHRUNK.

FATJAP

Way to go...

People, don't Scotch-Lock or "Western Union" (twist-and-tape) any electrical connection on any vehicle. This is begging for trouble, as:

1) Scotch-Locks frequently break wire strands, and stress the strands that they do not break. The Scotch-Lock "bridge" (actual electrical connection) is a frequent connection failure point, and tracking down a nasty intermittant electrical problem because of a Scotch-Lock is a pain in the ass.

2) Twist-and-tie wiring connections will eventually fail on any motor vehicle application. Vibration, flex and thermal cycling will cause the strands to chafe and loosen, again creating an intermittant high-resistance point (before it fails completely).

Soldering and covering (heat-shrink tubing, wiring sealant) is the only way to go!

Mike