What kind of leaded fuel to use with dry nos

California Kid

California Kid

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Tom ,
I have a stock gen 2 busa with a few mods . I am going to use dry nos I got sponsored by NX Nitrous Express . I am using a 60112P kit . Single line to air box 2.5 lb bottle , with a 30 or 40 shot . What kind of leaded race fuel should I use . C-12 , VP Red , VP-110 .

Bill
 
Bill,
You are softer than a block of butter left in the sun, but I love your drive.

Regarding fuel, we mostly run Sunoco race fuels up hear in NewEngland. For a nitrous motor running the mile, you want to run a leaded, non oxygenated fuel designed for very high rpm and very high compression ratio. Also, zero ethanol. There are a lot of fuels designed for car motors, but car motors don't typically run at 11,400 rpm for 30 seconds. The fuel also needs to be compatible with compression ratio's of over 15:1. Your motor doesn't have that high a CR, but on nitrous, it effectively does. The best Sunoco fuel for that application is Sunoco Maximal.

Maximal - Traditional Race Fuels

Its 116 Octane, and designed to burn very fast, in motors running over 10k rpms. This is what many of the pro-mod, and funny bike riders use at our track. Its also very stable, and can be left in the tank for weeks without F-ing up your injectors and such.

I have less experience in VP fuels, and quite honestly had horrible experiences with MR9 and MR11 for non-nitrous motors. That being said, an equivalent fuel to Sunoco Maximal would be VP C16 or VP NO2. I have no experience with the NO2, but the specs look good.

These fuels are overkill for a 30 shot, but they are the safest fuel to run for long durations.

Bill, regarding your setup, a couple of suggestions. See if you can get a dual line system that plumbs into the dual airbox inlets on both sides. Running 2 20 HP jets in front of the air cleaner will give a more homogeneous mixture. Remove the air filter, or cut the paper element out leaving the screen. Moisture can freeze on the filter and plug it up during spray. Consider getting a pressure regulator to keep the flow constant. Pressure drops a lot over 15 seconds. You might find yourself running stinking rich at the top end as the bottle drops in pressure. As the gas flows out of the bottle, it chills the bottle and drops the pressure quickly.

If you end up running the setup at Loring, give me a shout and I'll tune for you. Good luck.
Tom.
 
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Great info Draco.
How would a stock motor no nos but tuned with power commander and 4into1 run on some of that Maximal ?
Wondering if she would run any nicer ?
I like that you can leave it in for a while without worry.
 
Don't run race fuel on a stock motor. You will only go slower. Gen II motors stock run the fastest on cheap 87 octane pump gas or other "low" octane fuels. Even MR9 is only 86 octane. High Octane and anti-detonation additives in race fuel don't make you go faster, just safer. If your motor is stock, you can also get away with and benefit from ethanol or other means of oxygenation. Having O2 in the fuel means you can add more fuel and more BTUs to the mix. Never run oxygenated fuels when running nitrous.

BTW, there are a million threads on only running premium in your stock Gen II... Blah blah blah. I am not saying 87 is the safest. I'm saying its the fastest if properly tuned to 13.3, and its infinitely safer than running nitrous.
 
What about a street bike w/ spray (40 shot) with regular 87 which "may contain at least 10% of ethanol"?
 
So ideally what would be safe for just screwing around on the street? Would premium (93 here) be ok, seems like everywhere I go to fill up has the signs that say "may contain up to 10%".
 
your probably fine. Street stuff is just 3 seconds at a time.
Psyco Bill will be spraying for 25 seconds.
 
Bill,
great to hear from you last night. I will see you at Loring. I have been building a car all winter to race up there, so hopefully everything will be ready.
 
Tom ,
I can not run two lines to the air box , only one line were in the air box
should I install it . Some people say to install it by the sensor and others say by one of the inlet tubs . What do you think .

Bill
 
Tom ,
I all so need to buy a big tank of nos to refill my 2.5 lb bottles , do you have one for sale or do you know anybody that does .

Bill
 
Tom ,
I was on Psychobike.com a guy Gixx1300r builds a spray bar for my set up ck it out and let me know if you think this will help me . The tread is under Dry nos spray bar .

Bill
 
You will need 3 or 4 2.5# bottles to run LSR. If you wait to freeze a bottle down and fill it, you will only get two runs in at Loring. The going rate for a bottle on EBay used is around $50 - $70. ColdFusion sells the cheapest big bottles. I bought a huge 20# bottle from them for around $125. That's what a 2# bottle cost new from other places.

I will call you tonight about the airbox. You really should try to get two foggers into the box if possible. One doesn't guarantee an even mixure of gas to each cylinder.

Pointing the jet at the temp sensor is not desirable as a way of fuel enrichment. It kind of works up to about 20 HP, but after that you need to switch maps. ECU editor is definitely the way to go. It will switch maps for you on nitrous activation. Contact Greg (Smithabusa) and get a flash box for ECU editor. As a side bonus, you can throw away your power commander forever, and tune directly into your ECU.

Spray bars have some advantages and disadvantages. Gixx1300r on this site makes good ones. For a 30 or 40 shot they aren't necessary. At 100 shot they are absolutely necessary. In between those two ranges its debatable. For dragracing, progressively ramping the spray is very important, and I find that progressive fogging is easier on the motor than progressive spray bars, but for LSR your are just going to light the wick and hold on - so a bar is fine if you want to spend the extra money. Just don't use one fogger nozzle if you decide to fox. Use 2 in the 2 inlets and remove the filter. That's important.

Bill, please consider upgrading your fuel pump, valve springs, and valves. The Gen II motor has VERY light springs. I measured spring pressure on my Gen II after only 500 miles on the motor and I had less than 25 lbs. Yikes. Ferrara SS valves and 60 lb springs will guarantee you won't spit a shim or brinell the back side of the cam lobes. 50% of the time a spit shim will drop the valve and destroy the head, pistons, rods, cases... you get the idea. The fuel pump might be ok for a while with a 30 shot, but at 40 hp you will probably start to lose pressure after a couple of seconds. What works for the occasional street jockey WILL NOT WORK on the crap you subject your bike to.
 
Tom ,
I won't be able to change my fuel pump , or valves , valve springs til next year . Just trying to get by with the best set up with what I have .

Bill
 
Gixx1300R said:
You will need at least a 5lbs bottle or 2 2.5lbs bottles for LSR runs.
Click to expand...

I've had no problem running a single 2.5 lb bottle at Maxton or Loring but I run a regulator. Most LSR venues don't have enough traction to spray until your in 5th gear anyway, so the amount of time on the gas is only 15 seconds for a 1.5 mile track. If you regulate the pressure down to 700 psi, you can maintain that for 15+ seconds. Without a regulator, even a 5 lb bottle will drop quickly. I used to log bottle pressure on my innovate, and was amazed at how fast bottle pressure changes.

I agree with Gixx that a spray bar is great for LSR. I'm just suggesting that you should first focus on getting bottles, a regulator, a fuel pump, springs, valves, a way to switch maps, and a logger if you want to run safely.
 
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