Water filled tires~?~ 2 part question...

outlawbusa

1 wheel up aero testing
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Ok, maybe not water filled...but how does a little moisture inside the tire affect it (durability, etc)~?~

The thread a while back about putting different things in your tire (ex: nitrogen) got me thinking about this...

Water doesn't hurt the outside right~?~ But maybe if it soaked in water for a few months straight at a time~?~ Would it dry rot faster after removing from the moisture into a dry setting~?~

The reason I bring this up is...one of my compressors (my largest) blows out some moisture. Not a big deal, I keep all the air tools well oiled. I have an external dryer and water separator attached and drain the water plug in the bottom of the tank when needed. I also attach a 2nd external dryer when I use paint guns (the biggest issue with moisture).

At any rate, I am wondering what would cause a larger compressor to draw in so much moisture to begin with~?~

Funny thing is, it really only seems to produce a high amount of moisture out of my main hose...my garage has about 4 hoses ran...and I use this main hose about every couple days and it's blown out regularly, a little odd~?~

It actually draws in (and blows out) enough right now that you can see a nice little vapor~!~

Just thought I'd share my wonderful little water hose experience with you all
 
moves more air? even in AZ my big compressors always needed drained..(daily)

first hose or lowest hoses always got wet first.. would not be so bad but that water smells rasty....
 
High Moisture can cause the tire to dry rot prematurely. Moisture will penetrate the rubber and cause damage to the Arimide fibers
 
The (humidity) moisture is in the air, when the air is compressed the moisture in the air condenses. Larger compressors = more air/moisture.:thumbsup:
 
lol, rasty
:laugh: well the stuff smells "soured" like an old musty dish rag left wet in the washer for 3 weeks and then it has the oil in it.. combined? = "rasty" :rofl:


For automotive use? I really doubt it causes any real issues... every now and then we would get a steel wheel with rust etc but even in AZ, dry rot or other tire failures were pretty rare.. (unless run low or flat) Tires were just always worn out..
 
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:laugh: well the stuff smells "soured" like an old musty dish rag left wet in the washer for 3 weeks and then it has the oil in it.. combined? = "rasty" :rofl:
..

Yeah, it can be pretty nasty when it blows tool oil out with the water. You get this milky kinda stuff that you don't want to see when you pull the dip stick out of a motor~!~ :laugh:
 
YOU GOT NOTHEN TO WORRY about! no tire on a busa is going to last long enuff to even think about dry rotting,:whistle:
 
YOU GOT NOTHEN TO WORRY about! no tire on a busa is going to last long enuff to even think about dry rotting,:whistle:
:rofl: how true is that... 3 or 4 weeks on a tire? heck only have to air it up one time... I would hate to have Scar's tire bill...
 
It's very important to drain them every day. My uncle had an old one that wasn't drained regularly. Apparently, the inside of the tank had been rusting for a long time and it eventually exploded in his garage! :shocked:
 
Water in the lines is usually from the moisture in the air. It's not too bad here in Az, but I only use my compressor every couple of days.
 
I am just going through the insall process with my compressor ..so just to put it out there. Lines should never be run straight off the compressor...first leg from the compressor should be in some sort of metal pipe going straight up the wall so that water can condense in the cool pipe with a ball valve and short drain at the bottom of the first leg up to drain moisture...then a 90 degree turn with maybe 1-2 inch drop across the garage...90 degree turn going down to at least 3 foot off of floor with a ball valve and short leg to drain more moisture condensate off... then to oil/h20 seperators X2 then to hose. Compressor should be emptied everyday. Don't know if the above fella's had all of this setup or not...And be thankful Mr Aussie she didn't smell like limburger cheese:laugh:
2hip
 
I am just going through the insall process with my compressor ..so just to put it out there. Lines should never be run straight off the compressor...first leg from the compressor should be in some sort of metal pipe going straight up the wall so that water can condense in the cool pipe with a ball valve and short drain at the bottom of the first leg up to drain moisture...then a 90 degree turn with maybe 1-2 inch drop across the garage...90 degree turn going down to at least 3 foot off of floor with a ball valve and short leg to drain more moisture condensate off... then to oil/h20 seperators X2 then to hose. Compressor should be emptied everyday. Don't know if the above fella's had all of this setup or not...And be thankful Mr Aussie she didn't smell like limburger cheese:laugh:
2hip

Very good info, never even though about 1/2 of that~!~

My hose does run straight up the wall (and has my separators are mounted on a fairly high spot) but it's all hose. The cold pipe idea sounds worthwhile~!~
 
Im just mad that you have a compressor that big you can use to work with at HOME...so here's to you:moon:

:laugh:
 
The problem is not so much with water affecting the tires, but corroding the aluminum rims, possibly in the contact area where the tire bead meets the rim and seals in the air. Doubt it's a big problem or lot's of bikes would have problems. That and the fact that many people use windex or something similar as a lubricant to mount the tires.
 
Im just mad that you have a compressor that big you can use to work with at HOME...so here's to you:moon:

:laugh:

:laugh:

I found that the smaller compressors (5hp) would not run some of my power tools for the length of time at full strength that I needed them to run ...
 
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