Tools - Torque wrenches

ajblbv

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Sooo, ill be in enough parts of the bike this winter that i should probably start considering torque specs finally :whistle:

Looked at sears and harbor freight wasnt really impressed with quality and pricing of wrenches, though I know i am in for an expensive tool....

I would like a small one and big one, maybe a set? Digital would be nice....

What do yall use? Any other couldnt live without them tools...?
 
I use Craftsman and it has been replaced twice in two years, just because. Works great!
 
Spend the $ on a nice one, they can always be re-calibrated etc... Snap-On makes an awesome one that will do ft/lbs and in/lbs

picture2009%5C3082552231206.jpg
 
ive got the harbour frieght "clicker". cost me $15 and still has lifetime replacement just like craftsman....only harbour frieght is closer to my housre and alot less money. buy it and take it back once a year and get a new one,lol. that way u know its calibrated. :D
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Spend the $ on a nice one, they can always be re-calibrated etc... Snap-On makes an awesome one that will do ft/lbs and in/lbs

picture2009%5C3082552231206.jpg

+1, I got a buddy who used to run a snap on truck, and gave me some good deals.:please: Also, Mac make some nice stuff.:thumbsup:
 
The main thing about a torque wrench is to set the tension back to zero when you are finished using it.
 
I use CDI 1/2 the money of Snap-On and its made by Snap-On :cheerleader::cheerleader::cheerleader:



Things to consider from a Snap on guy
"I'm a ME for Snap-on and heavily involved in the developing and testing of torque micrometers, dial and beam wrenches and audible beam wrenches...not to mention our company is a world leader in torque calibrators that measure compression, tension, torque and angle.

Our company has done idividual testing on Craftsman torque wrenches with the roller bearing cam and found them to be an outstanding torque wrench and found that most of them will hold +/- 4% CW and +/- 6% CCW tolerances after 5000 cycles at full range in both directions.. To say the least we were impressed, because 80% of torque wrench mfg. that we see and test usually have a tough time passing the cycle, endurance, and overload testing. Also I'm fortunate to see what the end user does to a torque wrench when not used in the correct manner and the main culprits are the Army the Marines and Boeing. I will do a break down of applications and care of Snap-on Torque wrenches, some of these can apply to Craftsman, since they are very accessible to the general public.

Snap-on
QC, QD , QJ series torque are bi-directional click style. and are accurate from 20% of full scale to full scale, accuracy tolerance of +/- 4% CW & +/- 6% CCW. Always wind down the wrench to lowest reading on the scale after usage, even though we use a valve quality spring, if a torque wrench is left at 60% to 100% of full scale the spring will lose its free-length causing the torque wrench to lose its calibration. Also if you must, and have to break off a stubborn fastener, wind the torque wrench to 100% of scale, so that hopefully you wont do any damage to the cam and the pivot block..but using a breaker bar is highly suggested. BTW these rules apply for the Craftsman torque wrenches you buy from Sears.

The Snap-on TQ series torque wrenches are uni-directional and have a tolerance of +/- 4% CW from 20% of full scale to full scale and should only be used in the clockwise (CW) direction only, because even though its considered a "clicker", its design integrity is beam with a trigger and will suffer beam damage or lose its calibration if used to break off fasteners...they are very much like dial torque wrenches, only significant difference is a dial torque wrench has a mechanical movement...

Beam style wrenches are very in acurrate and position sensitive and the only thing they are good for is checking drag.

Dial wrenches are great for accuracy, Snap-on has models that are +/- 1% tolerance in both directions. But are also position and gravity sensitive and should be used in a controlled environment."
 
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The new digital "Strain gauge" units are very accurate and seem to hold up really well with the right care.. (sucks when the batteries are dead and you need the thing :*( )

A torque wrench is a sensitive measuring device and it should be handled like one..

Micrometers are not "C" clamps, torque wrenches are not ratchets, pry bars or breaker bars..

I think you do get what you pay for (mostly) and Sears seems to do really well for the $$ spent..

Figure out what you are using it for and buy one that fits the use. You are never going to use a 300# range on a bike. (I was always taught not to use the last 20% of the range if at all possible, not sure if this applies to the new digital strain gauge units or not)

I have a number of different ones and really like the clickers for repetitive jobs (just faster)

Problem with "clickers" is that they are terrible for doing differentials (torque to turn pinion) or checking breakaway torque on motor assemblies.. So I have a couple dial type torqueometers
 
ok Sonny got to it... :laugh:

Now if you can tell me why my dead blow hammers (all Snap-on) are exploding the epoxy or urethane coatings off... :laugh: I own 3 hammers that look like steel pipe on the end of a steel rod..
 
ok Sonny got to it... :laugh:

Now if you can tell me why my dead blow hammers (all Snap-on) are exploding the epoxy or urethane coatings off... :laugh: I own 3 hammers that look like steel pipe on the end of a steel rod..

Me too, same thing happened to mine the other week.
 
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