to torque, or not to torque

H

hemi

Registered
curious how many of u use a torque wrench on the oil drain plug. Noticed a few threads in the other section about people stripping the plugs, and some say to always torque it, some say to never torque it and always go by feel. I have been changing the oil in my trucks/cars for years, and also the gsxr750 when i had it, and now the busa, never used a torque wrench once on the plug and never had a problem. Just normally tighten it down snug, then give it about another 1/8 turn tight. What's the safest way to avoid stripping it. I bought a nice craftsman microtorque/in lb torque wrench recently and used it on the plug the last few times, but depending on how accurate it is, oil all over the threads, etc etc, is it really an accurate toruqe when i torque the plug to 16ft lbs. A few said it may not be very accurate bc the plug gets oil all over the threads, would it be better to hand tighten it, and after a short ride to burn the oil off the threads, then torque it. 16ft/lbs isn't much, but i would imagine u would have to crank it pretty tight to actually strip it
 
Hemi, do you think that the average apprentice doing oil changes all day long bothers to look up the torque spec's for every bike/car he works on? - Of course not; he just goes by feel. You can do the same, if you wish.
I mean, we should all do everything by the book...but most of us don't, and we get away with it. I'm pretty sure that the guys who strip the plugs are just going nuts tightening them up!
 
15 oil changes, one crush washer and use my small inch/lb torgue wrench set at about 200and snug it down. I do the same with all fasteners. It gives me a quide line so i dont wrench down too hard, but i can feel when its right. Never stripped the drain plug.

I really dont think it that critical for fasteners such as the drain plug or even brake caliper mounts, rear and front axles or other fastener type bolts to be exactly spot on torque specs. Now if you were rebuilding a motor and torqueing down cylinder heads and such accuracy is key.
 
think i will continue the "feel" method with the plug then. Get nervous using torque wrenches sometimes, and fear it might strip it one time. Changed the diff fluid in my truck once, bolted the cover back on using a torque wrench set at 35ft lbs, as stated in the manual. One stinkin bolt had a washer under it and the torque wrench wouldn't click, cranked it just a bit more and snap!! Snapped the bolt clean in half
 
Between "FEEL" and a mechanical device, I trust the latter. There is a reason why the torque wrench was invented :whistle: But to each his own :thumbsup:
 
How often do you tighten a drain plug? Why not just use a torque wrench because the consequences of it being too lose or too tight are pretty significant. There are a lot of bolts I just tighten to feel, but if it's covered up or would be a disaster if it came loose or I stripped it, I'll torque it.

I would really hate to change an oil pan or test my T-rex's because I was too lazy to torque a bolt:2cents:
 
i used to never use a torque wrench...until i stripped my plug a while back. i didnt "go nuts" on tightening the plug, just got it "snug". i learned my lesson, and will ALWAYS use a torque wrench.
 
do u guys just torque the plug right after draining all the oil? Another member was asking in a different thread if u should wait until it's cold to torque it, or oil on the threads could change the torque reading (i doubt it). And u torque it to 16ft lbs, correct?
 
hemi said:
And u torque it to 16ft lbs, correct?
Click to expand...

as specified in the manual, YES!

While oil is draining, I grab a bite to eat, surf the ORG, snoop around on FB, etc. Around 30 minutes later, I go back out and finish the oil change.
 
The oil on the threads is actually a good thing. You don't want to have to fight the friction of the threads, you want to have "actual" torque from the bolt on the pan, or whatever it is your tightening. (sometimes its even bolt stretch) 90% of bolt torqueing is overcoming friction. That said, i'd use the snug and a little bit more method. Be smart about it.
 
This is simple. IF you are not 100% sure that you can torque or tighten it to specs,.......then use a torque wrench. If you are guessing,.......you will eventually have a problem. I've been turning wrenches for 20+ years,.....and I can tighten most fasteners within specs without the need for a torque wrench,.........but I did not learn it overnight. Practice makes perfect,.......but most people don't have YEARS to practice!! :rulez:
 
after a few hundred oil changes you can tell when it's snug. on my birds tho, tq wrench every time.
 
StromBusa said:
Big fan of the torque wrench,:rulez: my "feel" is not calibrated for aluminum.
Click to expand...

Using a torque wrench, like one of the 10 to 150lbs model on aluminum threads, combined with the inaccuracy of lower readings-is asking for trouble. Used on studs on car cylnder heads- its invaluable.
 
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so you're saying not to use one?? Everyone has different opinions, some say use it every time, some say never to use it on the drain plug. Would an in/lb torque wrench be fine, my craftsman microtorque only goes up to about 35ft/lbs, so i assume it's pretty precise for small fasteners
 
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