Tire Pressure

[Lumpy]

Hey guys just thought i would see what everone is running in their tires. If yo could maybe give some reccomendations for everyday riding (both good twisties and some in town stuff) and then maybe if you race what you run at the track (road and drag) also would like some opinions on what aspect of handling tire pressure changes and how increases/decreases affect the handling characteristics of the busa. thanks in advance
lumpy

[Lumpy]

bump bump cmon guys??

[Mr. Busa]

40 front and 35-38 rear. If you take it to the drag strip lower it to 25 and play with it from there.

[The Oracle]

I run 42 in the front and 40 in the rear on stock rubber.

[Lumpy]

Thanks guys that should give me someplace to start. appreciate the response. i guess nobody else checks their tire pressure??

[Charlesbusa]

I run 42psi in front and rear. Trying to keep tire wear to a minimum. I don't drag or do tricks, but i do hit the canyon twisties.

[MET]

38F/ 38R New England

37F/37B Florida

[briXXer]

the book says 42 front and rear , solo and double

[birdaprey]

the book says 42 front and rear , solo and double

............do you do every thing your told.............

find out what's best for your altitude...

[SierraFlyer]

I am running 35 front and rear on the street. The track gets 32 front and rear. I got these numbers from Reg Pridmore at his cornering school. He insists that you should never go lower than 30 PSI if you are going to push the tire into turns hard. It may roll the bead off. Higher pressures are good for tire life but have less contact patch. I prefer more patch!

[Lumpy]

thanks again for all the input guys

[gararnett]

Michelin guy says any bike on the track(road racing), start at 28 back and don't go above 32. 32 front. The tire pressure reccomendations are usually for a fully loaded bike, with passenger, and are an absolute maximum pressure. I wouldn't run above 35 rear on the street, 32 front. Mine usually run between 28-32 front or rear.

Reminds me, I need to check them pressures!

Oh, ALWAYS US A VALVE CAP!! It is a second line of defense to losing pressure from the valve core. At high speeds (even below 100) centrifical force CAN AND DOES at times cause the valve core to move inward, resulting in a loss of air. The vale cap keeps this loss to a minimum. Use metal caps WITH A GASKET! Don't use the valve caps that read pressure or give a red/green based on pressure. These things are pressing in the valve core to get the reading - so its like riding without a valve core at all, and only a valve cap!!!

[SierraFlyer]

Good point on tire loading. For a good laugh just read the pressure settings in the manual. It is something like 42 PSI for EVERYTHING from 1 person light to two up with gear. VEERRRY scientific! The same goes for the suspension settings - one size fits all!

It would appear that Suzuki's legal dept wrote those specs.

The danger is going too soft and roling a tire off the bead. 30 PSI is great for large contact patch but still has a little margin for safety.

[gararnett]

I have never heard of any bike having a problem with "rolling a bead" at any pressure above 20. The real problem with lower pressures is heat buildup. This really is only a problem on the street below 25psi. Excessive heat from high speeds over many miles (usually over 100 on the street, not track) or many heat cycles will breakdown a tire and cause failure.

Hey I had a dual sport that on the street I ran 17-20psi and never had a problem. That pressure was too low for street and too high for dirt, but it worked for all but the twistiest. Then again the bike was much lighter. Still I would have no fear of "rolling a bead" on my busa with a pressure at 25psi. I would be more worried about de-lamination of the carcass and belts due to excessive heat, resulting in a big blow-out.
28 psi is not going to cause a problem solo.