stock exhaust mod?

[samw5]

any way to slightly mod the stock busa exhaust? i'm not looking for anything crazy, just a bit deeper tone maybe and maybe removing those ugly restrictor in the rear so it appears to the the full diameter of the exit pipe...

Not sure if anyone has done this and has tutorial... not even sure what's inside the baffles when you open them.

 

[cougar694u]

You can search in the modification section, as well as the performance/engine section, for exhaust mods. A lot of people put holes in the baffle inside the can.

Personally, I like that route when in stock trim, but slip-ons are the next step.

**EDIT**
Here's one that's simple to do:




I like this one, but involves more work. He left the stock outlet to meet rule restrictions for something he was running in, but I'd remove it.

 

[samw5]

does the ECU need remapping on exhaust swap?

 

[Warputer]

Only if it's a full system ......not for slip-ons or modifying the stock cans.

 

[samw5]

how about modding stock cans and the small air box mod... would this require remap?

 

[cougar694u]

You'll be fine. You will get more out of it by getting it remapped, but it's not required.

 

[samw5]

k cool... ya i figured i'll probably eventually get a full 4-1 and power commander but since i just got the bike i wanna at least get used to it and get it to sound a tiny bit louder.

 

[samw5]

btw found this thread for the can mod:

and here for the airbox:

 

[dadofthree]

Now you're catching on.

 

[mountainmotor]

This is hard to describe but don't drill the mufflers and change the design , enhance it .

Go in from the back side and cut a 2 inch hole with a hole saw . The only reason to do this is to fish out the section of 1 3/8 tubing that needs cut off inside the second chamber . You can see where it angles off towards the muffler cannister . Using a long arbor and 1 inch cut off wheel cut it right where the bend starts , fish it out then using a piece of sheet metal thats 2 1/4 diameter to cover that 2 inch hole , run a drill bit through it and through a 2 1/2 pice of straight steel .

Tack weld a nut onto the straight piece and start a long threaded screw into it and through the newest 2 1/4 cover plate then fish the plate/nut through hole and tighten .

That will bring the sound around a good bit and if more is needed , drill a 1 inch hole through that new plate just made .

Need more than that use a small cut off wheel and cut off the exit tip flush from the inside then cut the remainder of the exit tube out . Using the correct diameter and length muffler tubing weld a stop ring around it then drill three small holes through the ring and screw it back onto the muffler inside the polished tip . All this w/o ever having to remove the three factory screws on end of muffler .

More work but sounds better but better yet -----

You could put more engine in front of the stock exhaust . I did and there's simply no hiding the aftermarket cams unless I give it a good bit of fuel through the Power Commander at idle and the stock mufflers sound bitching . Can feel the exhaust pulse 10ft behind the mufflers at idle and looks pretty cool in colder months  

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

What I did was drill the front end baffle plate with five 1/2" holes each (long drill bit) and then after removing the rear end beauty caps, drilled nine 1/2" holes in the rear baffle plate, three each between the screw posts. Masked and painted the ends with 1500 degree paint and reinstalled the screws. Doesn't look bad at all either.

The only possible performance difference I (think) I felt was a reduced back pressure feeling on hard decel at high revs. If I did in fact feel some difference, I like it. Not the usual lurch forward when down shifting like the very restrictive stockers seemed to do. Acceleration was not effected. Looooove the sound, really. Would like to hear it from another's perspective and not just from the seat but I really do like it. No pops or swooshie sound, just a nice deep throaty rumble.

I think if you can find a set of take offs in good condition or using your own, you can have a great sounding set of pipes for a fraction of the cost of any 'store bought' slip ons. I'd love to hear some others in a side by side comparo to see what differences in sound there actually is.

 

[samw5]

(CBXRider @ May 12 2007,18:12) What I did was drill the front end baffle plate with five 1/2" holes each (long drill bit) and then after removing the rear end beauty caps, drilled nine 1/2" holes in the rear baffle plate, three each between the screw posts.  Masked and painted the ends with 1500 degree paint and reinstalled the screws.  Doesn't look bad at all either.

The only possible performance difference I (think) I felt was a reduced back pressure feeling on hard decel at high revs.  If I did in fact feel some difference, I like it.  Not the usual lurch forward when down shifting like the very restrictive stockers seemed to do.  Acceleration was not effected.  Looooove the sound, really.  Would like to hear it from another's perspective and not just from the seat but I really do like it.  No pops or swooshie sound, just a nice deep throaty rumble.

I think if you can find a set of take offs in good condition or using your own, you can have a great sounding set of pipes for a fraction of the cost of any 'store bought' slip ons.  I'd love to hear some others in a side by side comparo to see what differences in sound there actually is.

when you mention drilling the front baffle, how do you access it? is it drillable once the cans have been removed or do you have to remove all the material inside first?

I don't plan on doing anything drastic with the pipes (maybe as a side project if i have more time)... i just need a bit more growlin..
performance isn't my priority or else i would go full system.

also i'm hearing from people that the small air box mod would require ECU remap... not sure how critical this is but i probably won't upgrade to full exhaust till end of next season, just got the bike yesterday so i'm just starting on the mods (it's all stock).

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

"when you mention drilling the front baffle, how do you access it? is it drillable once the cans have been removed or do you have to remove all the material inside first?"

Yes, the only hitch is, its about 8" inside the can so you'll have to have a drill bit long enough. A regular bit will work on the rear baffle. BTW, no 'material' inside, just metal baffling. Sounds really good, nice growl at startup, idle and when twisting the wrist.

 

[samw5]

sweet... thanks for the tips!!