Speaking of tires





#1
I have seen many posts about the 'busa going through some tires... But DANG!

I only have 1500 miles and I am almost to the markers.

I don't do burnouts (on purpose)...

Sheesh. I guess I will try out some new hotlick rubber... Like Metzler's Sportech, Michelin Pilot, D208, yada, yada, yada.
 

Revlis

Re-Recycled, Busa-Less...
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#2
Hey Vripley.

The ratio I have gotten a few times is three rears per front. I wouldn't recommend replacing just the rear with a different manufacturer tire. Could cause some handling wierdness.
 

WWJD

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#4
Yeah, man! What's up with that?? Mine's at 1600 or 1700 or so and I am almost down to the "replace me" lines. No burnies here, only recall loose a lil traction once, many fast take offs, some high speeds.... I guess just the weight and ride wear out the factory's. I'm going EOM until BOTH need replaced also.
 

monsterspeedfreak

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#5
I have 1000 klms on my new Pilot, and it basically shows no wear at all.
I have the Pilot rear and a Dunlop 207 front that was to good to replace.......There was absolutely no difference in the cornering ability or anything else in the bike to not justify the changing of the rear, and I ride corners hard.
I consulted a few different shops about this very subject before doing it and they all said you won't notice a difference.
They were right.
Jus my .02
 

Revlis

Re-Recycled, Busa-Less...
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#8
Monster, Good To hear.  But, I know there are a lot of tires out there that have very different construction and profiles.  It may be the Pilots are closer to Dunlops in shape but I dunno.  Could be the Busa is just not as sensitive, I have allways heard it was a bad idea to mix tire brands because it can lead to wierdness.

AS for the quick wear?  I am pretty sure that it has to do with the power and weight of the Busa.  Even though we are not actively doing burnouts and such, just accelerating hard is putting huge stresses on the rear.  I have noticed that the leading edge of each of my treadblocks on the rear is rounded, the trailing edge is lightly feathered.  The only thing that could be doing that is just pure Whoop-ass smile inducing acceleration.  Just like you guys I thought I was taking it easy, tire doesn't agree.

I used to run Metzlers exclusivley on my last bike, and I have heard you get good milage out them. I am probably going to put some on when the Bstones die.
 

L4G4RT0

Registered
#9
So I see people use different tyres in the Busa. Mine makes about 2500 miles / 4000 km before claiming for a new rear tyre ('cause i usually don't drive in roads clear of traffic). I use a tyre called BT10J since i was told there is no BT56 available in Portugal (???), but i would like to try another brand. I was told there were tyres with harder rubber in the middle section and soft in the side, so cornering was not affected. Of course it has other issues, but if you're going to travel in a Highway for a long distance, that's the tyre... Is it true? The BT10J in here costs about $165
sad.gif

I was also told that the Busa can't use different tyres than the BT56 / BT10J, since there is no other 250kg (full) / 175HP bike in the market. The tyre was designed specially for it...
So many questions... Any comments?

(Sorry for not having an avatar yet, i'll have one soon...)
 

Revlis

Re-Recycled, Busa-Less...
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#10
L4G4RT0
 It's true that the OEM Bridgstones were developed for the Busa but you will notice if you poke around the board here that there are a lot of folks running all sorts of tires.  Just about all the major manufactureres build one that will work.  
  You might be well served looking into some Metzlers, Pirellis, or Michelins.  I believe these are all European natives and you might be able to get a better deal on them.  At least they originated in Europe, don't know if they are still made there...

And Welcome to the Board.
 

Narcissus

Hayabusa Immortal
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#11
I thought I complained about low mileage tires.
laugh.gif
I am just over 8000 miles on my D207 and have just patched a nail to hold me over another 1000. It has a flat spot from so many highway and winter miles, but I try to burn it to the edges every chance I get.

You guys might want to check your alignments. If you are not doing burnouts, or lots and lots of high speed corners, the rear should last a bit longer.

To check the alignment, get a long, straight piece of wood or metal, something long enough to reach the front of the bike from the rear. You can get two and clamp them to make it easier. Place the bar, wood, etc., on the rear tire, snug to each edge and mark where it goes on the front. Do the same for both sides. Adjust the rear wheel accordingly. You can not trust those markers.

Check the alignment every 1000 miles or so or whenever you check the chain adjustment as the adjustors can sometimes work loose over time.
 
#12
I thought I complained about low mileage tires.
laugh.gif
I am just over 8000 miles on my D207 and have just patched a nail to hold me over another 1000. It has a flat spot from so many highway and winter miles, but I try to burn it to the edges every chance I get.

You guys might want to check your alignments. If you are not doing burnouts, or lots and lots of high speed corners, the rear should last a bit longer.

To check the alignment, get a long, straight piece of wood or metal, something long enough to reach the front of the bike from the rear. You can get two and clamp them to make it easier. Place the bar, wood, etc., on the rear tire, snug to each edge and mark where it goes on the front. Do the same for both sides. Adjust the rear wheel accordingly. You can not trust those markers.

Check the alignment every 1000 miles or so or whenever you check the chain adjustment as the adjustors can sometimes work loose over time.
"patched"

rock.gif
?!!!!

AAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!

You are crazier than me!!!!!!!!
 

MET

The Watcher
Registered
#13
Hey Vripley.

The ratio I have gotten a few times is three rears per front.  I wouldn't recommend replacing just the rear with a different manufacturer tire.  Could cause some handling wierdness.
Depends on the tires. it is Ok to mix. Then start over with a fresh set. I very seldom mix but every once and a while since i have a new set usually sitting, I do not want to split the set up, I will use different back tire to get back in rotation
 
#14
I got 4300 miles from stock BT56's.  I tried Metzler Sportec M-1's and only got 2900 miles out of the rear.  I currently have Bridgestone Bt012ss on front, and BT010 on rear.  I have gotten 3000 miles so far from BT010 and it hasn't squared off yet.  It also seems to stick pretty well in curves.  The stock bt56's slid alot on me once I had about 2/3 wear on them.  I am also seeing a 3 to 1 rear to front ratio and I don't do burn-outs or wheelies.  I definitely agree that it's just the horsepower to the rear wheel that's wearing it out.  If you're getting more than 4 or 5 thousand miles out of a rear tire, then you aren't doing any highspeed runs or fast takeoffs.
 

rubbersidedown

BUSA-RIDIN'-BASTID
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#15
....mis-matched tires....DunSlop out back / Bridgestoned up front. No probs , lots of clicks on mine.

....patching a tire...does work..if done right....

....harder compounds....definately go for it, if yer just Mr.Commuter . Touring tires will stand up way longer,can be better in the rain , etc . If yer not out there knee-draggin',buy the tire that suits yer needs . It's kinda back-azzwards , but , tires with the ability to last longer ,usually leave yer wallet feeling a little thicker . If ya wanna play,you of course gotta pay . Fast heat-up sticky tires cost mucho denaro .And can be killed in a weekend. I usually go for the middle ground . I dont get track days , I ride everyday that I can . I ride the twisties about medium , an' just live with the fact that she sometimes feels a little sqishy . o ya , you can also save yerself a buck or 2 by buying something a little thinner . I've got a big fat thing out back.....looks cool...thats all thou . Handles like crap.Costs extra $ . You can ride thru corners faster on skinnier tires . Keep yer tires properly inflated too .
 

Narcissus

Hayabusa Immortal
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#16
....patching a tire...does work..if done right....
Yep.
wink.gif


Patch/plugged to be precise. Make sure the patch part has the soft compound on it. The inside also needs to be sanded (carefully Dremel'ed) where the patch comes in contact. The inside is a high silicone content ridged rubber which prevents adhesion if not properly prepared. It is best to have a professional do this if you have never done so. If you have someone repair the tire, be sure to actually see them do it so you learn exactly how to do it. Also, remember, repairs knock a speed rating off the tire, so don't do over 150 with a repaired tire.

thumbs-up.gif
 

ThunderPants

Donating Member
Registered
#17
My stock rear is worn out after 3100 miles, front is fine, anyone know a good place to get a stock rear cheap? I will probably only replace the rear now.
 

WWJD

Donating Member
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#19
Now a tire question of how to wear them down QUICKER!
smile.gif

If normal inflation is 42 and track inflation is 32 for high speeds, wider grip patch, faster heating for sticky, and unfortunately faster wear, wouldn't it be bright to also run lower PSI on the street where you REALLY NEED wider grip patch for sand and God knows what, better grip from heat up, and a slightly smoother ride? Say, a compromise to 37 psi ?? Anyone ever do this? Pros and cons here? Just a thot
 
#20
7k on my original set of tires, and I'm thinking i still have a couple thousand more. I don't do burnouts (tires are too expensive lolol). One thing I do do is maintain the the air pressure and spin the wheels when its sitting up over winter. The only problem is that in the twisties they slide a couple of times but i'm working on mastering that lil problem...
 

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