Something I have been meaning to bring up.

Back to the pre flight check.....I'm a MSF Dirt Bike instructor and we use a thing called T-CLOCK to check all the bikes before and after a ride. Here is a brake down on how this works.


T Tires
C Cables
L Lights and electronics
O Oil and Fuel
C Chain
K Kick Stand

This little acranime will help alot when you go riding. It should be done before and after every ride. Once you get use to it it takes only a couple of min. As I tell my classes if you check your bike when you get done riding you have until your next ride to fix the problems you might find. If you wait until right before you go ride again when you find a problem you have to skip that ride to fix your machine. So lets check this amazing machines out everytime you throw your leg over it. She will repay you 10 fold.

-Pimpbike
 
Back to the pre flight check.....I'm a MSF Dirt Bike instructor and we use a thing called T-CLOCK to check all the bikes before and after a ride. Here is a brake down on how this works.


T    Tires
C    Cables
L    Lights and electronics    
O   Oil and Fuel
C   Chain
K   Kick Stand

This little acranime will help alot when you go riding. It should be done before and after every ride. Once you get use to it it takes only a couple of min. As I tell my classes if you check your bike when you get done riding you have until your next ride to fix the problems you might find. If you wait until right before you go ride again when you find a problem you have to skip that ride to fix your machine. So lets check this amazing machines out everytime you throw your leg over it. She will repay you 10 fold.

-Pimpbike
Hey Pimp, did you notice my bike wandering while I had point on the way over there the other day? It was like it would drift side to side occasionally. I've never had it do that before. I know it was windy but I didn't notice yer busa wandering like mine was. It didn't all click until I read Rev's thread here...
 
tire pressure is one of the most important things on a street bike. To much and you end up with not enough tread on the road and too little and the tire can blow and fly off the rim sending you into road slippin and a slidin.

-Pimpbike

With a bike that big it takes alot of movement for someone to see it. It didn't look like anything to be worried about.
 
Thanx for your post rev, never really thought about it and before my ride today I checked and I was low 8psi in the front and 10 in the back.....pumped em, and like new, was wondering why it was feeling a little funny.

-Eric
 
I am curious what type of tire you are riding? When I was riding the BT-56 it was mushy on the front end unless I kept it at  42 PSI which is also the max pressure. But with Sportec M-1 I run 34-35 PSI riding one-up and it feels great at any lean angle and sticks well. I think the brand, and even the model tire can have a big difference in what pressure works best. Please put a tire model with your pressure remarks and lets see if there is some sort of pattern to the tires vs. pressure?
Metzler recommends the stock pressure. 42 psi. front & rear.
I'm running Sportec M-1s too... Running the stock pressure eliminated my traffic induced front weave. I'm also getting both better mileage (gas & tire) and much more even wear.
 
I read that modern sportbikes and tires are designed with a standard PSI in mind - thus tires are manufactured so they can work on many different bikes.  The standard is something like 34 front 36 rear or close.  the busa is 42 for both because it weighs more or something.  Although I agree different tires may feel different at the same PSI, I recommend keeping it at the "Suzuki setting" for the bike: 42 front and rear.  Suzuki picked that keeping in mind many different tires will go on here, and to support it's weight and contact patch size.  The track is a whole other story.  To summerize:  many differnt tires can go on bikes, but the =BIKES= recommended pressure is designed for a reason... wear, contact patch, heatin up, street riding, all factored in.  And the tires are now all manufactured aiming at that standard PSI so they will work on many bikes.  How productive would it be if Dunlop had to make a 208  good at a nominal 30 PSI for a R6 and 208 nominal 42 for a 12R??   Bad for business.  Starndards are good.  -- opinons mixed with research
 
Pimp,

Good list, I try and check my bike before each ride.

Being a private pilot, I live by a preflight check list, you can die by not using the check list. I have known way too many pilots that simply ran out of gas because they "did not have the time" to use the check list. Running out of fuel at 10,000 ft is a bit different than on a frwy.

Everyone should make up a small list, maybe on 3 x 5 cards, laminate them and keep them close to the bike, as the bike warms up use your check list.

As we say, just my .02 worth.

Ride safe  
 
Stock Bridgestones, are whats on there right now. The problems with the tire pressure dropping and it's effect on handling is that it happens gradually, so it is really hard to tell that there is a change until you get out there really working it...then it becomes obvious, but only if you think about it. My Bro was allways messing with his tire pressure in hopes that his street rubber would suddenly get all better at a lower PSI. I'll stick with stock thanks. At least until I get to the track, where things like milage aren't a priority.
 
Stock Bridgestones, are whats on there right now.  The problems with the tire pressure dropping and it's effect on handling is that it happens gradually, so it is really hard to tell that there is a change until you get out there really working it...then it becomes obvious, but only if you think about it.  My Bro was allways messing with his tire pressure in hopes that his street rubber would suddenly get all better at a lower PSI.  I'll stick with stock thanks.  At least until I get to the track, where things like milage aren't a priority.
Yeah, it snuck up on me gradually. I really didn't notice it being really bad until that last ride. Dangerous! Won't sneak up on me again though unless the pressure goes down DURING a ride. :cool:
 
I like to use the Accu-Gauge because it's accurate to 1 psi plus it's got that cool little extension that lets you get between the rotor and wheel...but if you ever forget to release the pressure before storing it...it'll be off forever
 
I found a $20 digital tire pressure gauge at Sears that seems pretty accurate. Cool thing is it's small and fits up into the front tire without hassle. Best thing is it remembers the reading for a minute or so so you do have to try to get a reading while it's actually on the valve stem. Saves some bending and twisting to get a good reading.
 
I found a $20 digital tire pressure gauge at Sears that seems pretty accurate.  Cool thing is it's small and fits up into the front tire without hassle.  Best thing is it remembers the reading for a minute or so so you do have to try to get a reading while it's actually on the valve stem. Saves some bending and twisting to get a good reading.
Bought the same guage at Sears last night, Rev. I like it for the front wheel. Seems like a pretty good guage.  :cool: Oh, and I got a socket for the axle nut but not at Sears. Had to go to Home Depot to get one. I also bought a 1/2" drive ratchet, 1/2" drive handle, 6" long 1/2" drive socket extension, two torque wrenches and a filter strap wrench. I'm good to go now until I get ready to swap the front sprocket. All I should need then that I don't have now is a socket to fit it. 27mm I think... Woulda got it yesterday but couldn't remember the size for sure.

You mentioned a torque wrench... My Sears had their torque wrenches on sale. Have you been in lately? Might want to check and get it while it's on sale. I think all Sears stores are supposed to be having a similar sale. Worth a look...
 
Hmm, Craftsman on sale Huh? I'll go check it out.

I think I finally found the right tool box as well. Of course what I want is a Craftsman Professional, but the money is kinda silly. So I think I am going to get this Blue set I saw at Lowe's. It has bearings and while not up to craftsman quality seems to be built pretty well...
 
Hmm, Craftsman on sale Huh? I'll go check it out.  

I think I finally found the right tool box as well.  Of course what I want is a Craftsman Professional, but the money is kinda silly.  So I think I am going to get this Blue set I saw at Lowe's.  It has bearings and while not up to craftsman quality seems to be built pretty well...
Yeah, I'm lookin' at boxes, too. Love the Craftsman Pro and some of the Snap-on boxes but the bigger ones that I'd like to have to hold my body tools and my hand tools would cost more than I owe on my busa. Dayuuuum! Just can't do it. I am looking at one of Craftsman's middle of the road quality boxes. Still decent but not so pricey. Haven't looked at Lowes. Maybe I should run by there Friday and see what they have. Home Depot where I live had nothing but pure shiot boxes.
 
Oh, and Sometimes Sam's Club has some interesting Boxes.

I have a great big Harbor Freight Tools store here in Town, I should head over and see if there is anything there worth a damn.
 
I understand all of your concerns about running 42 PSI and following the manual. The thing that got me thinking otherwise was that the Busa tire pressure is 42 PSI. Max tire Pressure is 42 PSI. One-up tire pressure is 42 PSI and two-up is 42 PSI. Notice the patttern? I thought it was strange that they spec one tire pressure for all conditions or weights. As you load it up with a passenger and luggage the pressure in the tires rise. But you are already at max PSI without the load? Doesn't make sense to me. So perhaps the Suzuki legal department wrote that spec to be safe from liability? Everyone just leave it at 42PSI and they won't have to worry about someone puttting in 33 PSI to ride alone and later riding two up with luggage and having a blow out - having forgotten to increase the pressure?

What da ya think about this conspiracy theory?
 
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