solenoid life/maintenance

johnnycrash

johnnycrash

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I just installed a purge kit this weekend for kicks.  As soon as I got it all back together and hit the purge button for the first time it stuck open.  I smacked it (the solenoid) and it jarred loose and now it works fine ...

... but it's got me wondering why that happened.  Did I somehow get contaminants in the line? (I was careful not to but that doesn't mean it didn't happen)  Was it possibly a bad noid from the factory?  If it happens with the other solenoid I'm screwed - almost scared to spray again till I figure this out.

So how often do you guys replace solenoids?  Are most of you running nitrous filters?  A new noid is only $60 but the results of a stuck one would be thousands.
 
Should be under warranty, I'd get a new one. It's rare that typical solenoids burn up unless you leave the core out. The valves usually wear out before the coils go bad. Make the company replace it.

It should be fail safe, in other words a spring should slam it close and the coil open it.

No chance it was a loose connection right.

Explain the damage that would occur if the purge valve stuck open or failed to open.

Obviously I know nothing about NOS.
 
Thanks for the reply DO3 - you'd think some of the NOS experts would chime in - but lately it's like everyone's setup is top fu(king secret or something.

I've gotten all I am going to get out of this site I think - thanks again.
 
Check the nut on top of the solinoid,if it's too loose they will stick. If there is a screen on the intake side of the solinoid,get rid of it. They are nothing but trouble.
I change mine once a year on average.
 
Just FYI - I found out why I keep going through solenoids. When I added my purge I needed a T and a couple of fittings to make it work. The kit I got used cheap Chinese 1/8 NPT fittings that were brass (or at least they looked brass). When I took my solenoids apart they were full of brass particles. Either the material of the fittings themselves or the coating that was used was coming off in tiny particles. Those were getting on the seat of the solenoids and causing them to hang open. I bought a solenoid rebuild kit from Dynotune and went to all NOS brand aluminum fittings and problem is solved. I also added a Dynotune filter just in case I get a dirty fill.

While I was there I replaced the poly tubing going to my ram air inlets with a braided line to a fogger nozzle in the bottom center of the airbox. I think I had overtightened the ferrel fittings on the polyline to where the hose was pinched off - what was supposed to be a 50 shot was down to like a 20 shot. Took her for a ride last night and it's back to good times
SHOCKED.gif
She hits good now.

In short - Chinese made anything is junk.
 
Johny do you have a part number for that solenoid rebuild kit from Dynotune, i went to their website can't find it.
 
chevelle said:
Check the nut on top of the solinoid,if it's too loose they will stick. If there is a screen on the intake side of the solinoid,get rid of it. They are nothing but trouble.
I change mine once a year on average.
Click to expand...

Chevelle,
Am i understanding you right bro? Remove the n2o "SAFETY SCREENS"? The screen's that are made into the the n2o fitting, then screw into the noidz? ??? If thats what your talking about, WHY? What kind of problems have you had? Could you PLEASE :please: elaborate? Thx
 
johnnycrash said:
I just installed a purge kit this weekend for kicks. *As soon as I got it all back together and hit the purge button for the first time it stuck open. *I smacked it (the solenoid) and it jarred loose and now it works fine ...

... but it's got me wondering why that happened. *Did I somehow get contaminants in the line? (I was careful not to but that doesn't mean it didn't happen) *Was it possibly a bad noid from the factory? *If it happens with the other solenoid I'm screwed - almost scared to spray again till I figure this out.

So how often do you guys replace solenoids? *Are most of you running nitrous filters? *A new noid is only $60 but the results of a stuck one would be thousands.
Click to expand...

Ya this kind of chit Scares the Hell out of me! :butbut: Glad you got it worked out, and Thx for sharing, I know WHAT not to use now......would have never thought of that about on my own! "Things that make you go....BOOM"!!! :banghead:
 
Last edited:
Gixx1300R said:
You need to install a nitrous filter bewteen the bottle and solenoids.
Click to expand...

By "filter", your meaning the nitrous screens right? Or is there some other kind of filter out there that i obliviously dont know about :banghead: I AWAYZ just used the N2O fitting that has the screens built into them, But after what "chevelle" posted, im a little worried now??? Thx for the help :beerchug:
 
you probably had some gunk in the line.. really not much to go wrong in these units and if the coil frys, it stays shut.. work "clean" and it should be just fine.. it is a good idea to purge any line you have off before reassembly.. (quick off/on at the valve to blow out any debris)
 
ToXSicK RoCKeT said:
By "filter", your meaning the nitrous screens right? Or is there some other kind of filter out there that i obliviously dont know about :banghead: I AWAYZ just used the N2O fitting that has the screens built into them, But after what "chevelle" posted, im a little worried now??? Thx for the help :beerchug:
Click to expand...

DynoTune Product, 504-High Flow Billet Nitrous Filter - DynoTune, Nitrous systems, Purge kits, Nitrous Bottle heaters and more!

This is what I'm running - $29 and it doesn't take up much room. I have heard stories about getting a bad fill at the supplier and getting gunk in the tank which eventually sticks a noid. My orginal problem was just caused by chinese junk fittings though.
 
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