Rear Sprocket question



Jgarcia6988

Registered
Hello All

So i purchase a DME Swingarm and advised I should change the sprocket while they are installing it.

What are your thoughts? are there better ones? I'm not a crazy rider just want a nice cool looking bike..

Is it weird if i want a red sprocket?

thank you
 

Mythos

Registered
Heck no! I had a bright orange AFAM sprocket on my 14 for the last 4 years and I think it looked amazing with my anodized blue rim. The black/orange busa I am keeping low key with all aftermarket parts black. I like the shape of the busa and I don't want to interfere with the lines but if you go for bling GO CRAZY!! Just beware---if you start going with a colorful scheme, you might find later that you want to go another direction and then you have to buy some parts over again to get the effect your after. You can't go wrong with black. It matches everything and there is no problem with one part varying in color from another. The real way to do it if you get colored parts is get all of them anodized by the same company so they match perfectly.

Go for lightweight on your aftermarket parts. As far as sprockets, I think you will find Vortex aluminum to be the lightest rear sprocket. I am told Renthal might be even lighter. They are all pretty close in weight but go with aluminum rear and steel front. Vortex steel front is lighter than SuperSprox steel. Renthal steel front looks awfully dang light if the pic they show for the 530 pitch is actually the way they make it. Anyway, you go steel front and aluminum rear, you will go through two rears for every one front and then you will possibly want to change both sprockets and the chain all at once. Works that way for me.

I'm about to change sprockets and chain now. Planning Renthal steel front and Renthal Aluminum rear. If I get my BST rims, I'll go with a Talon aluminum rear sprocket but they don't make a Talon for the stock busa wheel. I think the consensus right now is to go with a ZVX3 for the chain. I weighed my new Z3D and it is a half ounce or so heavier than the old ZZZ I took off the ZX-14.
 

Jgarcia6988

Registered
Heck no! I had a bright orange AFAM sprocket on my 14 for the last 4 years and I think it looked amazing with my anodized blue rim. The black/orange busa I am keeping low key with all aftermarket parts black. I like the shape of the busa and I don't want to interfere with the lines but if you go for bling GO CRAZY!! Just beware---if you start going with a colorful scheme, you might find later that you want to go another direction and then you have to buy some parts over again to get the effect your after. You can't go wrong with black. It matches everything and there is no problem with one part varying in color from another. The real way to do it if you get colored parts is get all of them anodized by the same company so they match perfectly.

Go for lightweight on your aftermarket parts. As far as sprockets, I think you will find Vortex aluminum to be the lightest rear sprocket. I am told Renthal might be even lighter. They are all pretty close in weight but go with aluminum rear and steel front. Vortex steel front is lighter than SuperSprox steel. Renthal steel front looks awfully dang light if the pic they show for the 530 pitch is actually the way they make it. Anyway, you go steel front and aluminum rear, you will go through two rears for every one front and then you will possibly want to change both sprockets and the chain all at once. Works that way for me.

I'm about to change sprockets and chain now. Planning Renthal steel front and Renthal Aluminum rear. If I get my BST rims, I'll go with a Talon aluminum rear sprocket but they don't make a Talon for the stock busa wheel. I think the consensus right now is to go with a ZVX3 for the chain. I weighed my new Z3D and it is a half ounce or so heavier than the old ZZZ I took off the ZX-14.
 

Jgarcia6988

Registered
Heck no! I had a bright orange AFAM sprocket on my 14 for the last 4 years and I think it looked amazing with my anodized blue rim. The black/orange busa I am keeping low key with all aftermarket parts black. I like the shape of the busa and I don't want to interfere with the lines but if you go for bling GO CRAZY!! Just beware---if you start going with a colorful scheme, you might find later that you want to go another direction and then you have to buy some parts over again to get the effect your after. You can't go wrong with black. It matches everything and there is no problem with one part varying in color from another. The real way to do it if you get colored parts is get all of them anodized by the same company so they match perfectly.

Go for lightweight on your aftermarket parts. As far as sprockets, I think you will find Vortex aluminum to be the lightest rear sprocket. I am told Renthal might be even lighter. They are all pretty close in weight but go with aluminum rear and steel front. Vortex steel front is lighter than SuperSprox steel. Renthal steel front looks awfully dang light if the pic they show for the 530 pitch is actually the way they make it. Anyway, you go steel front and aluminum rear, you will go through two rears for every one front and then you will possibly want to change both sprockets and the chain all at once. Works that way for me.

I'm about to change sprockets and chain now. Planning Renthal steel front and Renthal Aluminum rear. If I get my BST rims, I'll go with a Talon aluminum rear sprocket but they don't make a Talon for the stock busa wheel. I think the consensus right now is to go with a ZVX3 for the chain. I weighed my new Z3D and it is a half ounce or so heavier than the old ZZZ I took off the ZX-14.
I’m on vortex website and asking for the pitch . Not sure much about that but . I’m getting a swingarm installed . So not sure the person is giving me the chain that comes with it . Just end to get a brake line

00823BE2-29C3-457A-B051-8B41E82BA6D1.png
 

Mythos

Registered
I’m on vortex website and asking for the pitch . Not sure much about that but . I’m getting a swingarm installed . So not sure the person is giving me the chain that comes with it . Just end to get a brake line

View attachment 1612768
If you are getting an extended swing arm on there, better make sure you get enough links. I would buy longer than required, place it over the sprockets and cut it down to size if I was the one installing it. Too expensive to accidentally buy too short of a chain because you misjudged the wheelbase or go with a larger sprocket. For extended swing arm,it will be more links than stock. Offhand, I do not know the number of stock drive chain links nor do I know the number of teeth front and rear. My supplier just lists them as being for the 2008-20 busa and Bking. You are wise to confirm the number of teeth and pitch though.

Busa is 530
Yes, I have always been told to stay with the stock chain and sprocket pitch for the busa and the ZX-14. You can shed over a pound of rotating mass by going to a 525 but it is not considered safe with all the torque the big bores make. I try to be extra safe with chains and sprockets because if something goes wrong, it will probably go without warning and you or the bike or both will get messed up bad even at low speed. Had a friend who's gal pal had a chain come unriveted right after installation and it whipped her leg and dented the gas tank. That was probably the best case scenario. The chain usually does not fly out, it locks the rear wheel and high sides or winds around the front sprocket and chews out the motor.
 

Berlin Germany

Registered
Yeah, the Busa is a 18/43 tooth count and 530 pitch chain with 114 links. (...)
differentiation please

gen 2 - yes - 18/43/114

gen 1 has 17/40/112

both pich - 530

D.I.D. (ZVM-X) not available at your country?
this we all recommend here in germany (+ an automatic chain oiler - that easily doubles or triples the chains life)
chain life - with autom. oiler - my experience is around 50-70k km / 31 - 43k mi
 

GAmedic

Registered
Why not Vortex? I have several that seem ok. They do wear out in my application but I figure that is just one of the costs.
Poor quality over the last few years. Almost like their aluminum is less quality. Seen several in the last few months that sheared teeth off in a short life span on bikes not ridden hard.
 

GAmedic

Registered
differentiation please

gen 2 - yes - 18/43/114

gen 1 has 17/40/112

both pich - 530

D.I.D. (ZVM-X) not available at your country?
this we all recommend here in germany (+ an automatic chain oiler - that easily doubles or triples the chains life)
chain life - with autom. oiler - my experience is around 50-70k km / 31 - 43k mi
D.I.D. is available. I spoke with a buddy of mine for over an hour discussing different setups and went with his choices. Dont regret it one bit.
 

Jgarcia6988

Registered
differentiation please

gen 2 - yes - 18/43/114

gen 1 has 17/40/112

both pich - 530

D.I.D. (ZVM-X) not available at your country?
this we all recommend here in germany (+ an automatic chain oiler - that easily doubles or triples the chains life)
chain life - with autom. oiler - my experience is around 50-70k km / 31 - 43k mi
i see one on amazon. I'm installing a swinarm So i need to find out how long i need it to be
 


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