Rear running lights switch

[Charlesbusa]

Now that I've integrated my brake lights to work with my turn signals, I want to make the brake lights even more obvious in daytime.  I commute on the bike and I will not put the stock lights back on, no way!!

My UFO undertail has clear lenses and the brake light LEDs are clear when they are off.  The blinking brake light isn't very obvious in daytime because of 2 things;
1)Daylight bleeds out the LEDs
2)The running lights make it even less obvious that the I am signaling to turn or braking.

I can't dim the sun and I'm too poor to get the super fandazzled LED lights, too much $$$.

But I can turn off the running lights so the brake lights are clear, then when I signal or brake, BAM here they are Bright RED!!  This will also increase my brake light visibility in daytime in addition to the turn signals.

But I need running lights at night, soo the big question.

Where should I splice into the rear running lights circuit and put a switch??  Remember, I'm poor so cheap is perferred, but I'd like to make it look as nice as possible.  

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[BusaWhipped]

How handy do you want the switch to be?  Something on the inner firings, or hidden?

It's the brown wire. At the rear of the bike, it's easy, just put the switch inline on the brown wire.

Its a little trickier at the front of the bike. The brown wire comes off the key switch, then splits to the front for the position lights (european, spare connector everywhere else) and to rear for the running lights. You'll need to make sure the you put the switch in on the correct side of the split.



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[ICEMANN]

Charles. If Im reading your post correctly I need some info.

Your front running lights are they the front turn signals converted to 1157 bulbs and the 2nd contact on the 1157 bulb is powered to be your running lights?

If this is the case where did you get the power from for your running lights?

If you used the small unused connector in the nose section upper right side (brown) wire to power your running lights this is where your problem will lay.

If you just put a switch on the brown wire you will be cutting on/off the tail light as well you dont neccessarily want that.

You could put a switch inline with the power source going to your running lights, but normally you would switch the negitive side not the positive side. Doesnt matter but if you switch the positive side of a circuit and your switch is mounted in an area that could have accidental touching to any bike metal you will have a direct short and immediate problems. If you switch the negitive side and that happens the light will just come on no worries.

I had the same issue with front running lights and front turn signals not flashing correctly.

It was easier to just get power or the front running lights from a different source (orange/white) wire. It's ignition controlled as well. But you can switch on/off your running lights in the front without affecting the rear circuit.

I dont know if you have a scorpio alarm and if you used the "factory" plug n play harness but if you did then the power for the alarm is using the brown wire in the back section so switching it on/off kills the power needed for the alarm. FYI!.

A little more work but easier fix all together. You will be turning off your running lights every time you want to brake/signal in the daytime. Too much thought process in a split second when somethings going on. MY APPROACH was to obtain smaller bulbs and sockets. (like the turn signal in the corners of your ufo undertail). Drill a small 1/2 inch or whatever needed hole in the front turn signal housing just above the turn signal bulb. Insert new bulb and twist a 1/4 turn to lock it into place. Run wire over to your switch and power. WALA running lights that are totally seperate and have no affect on your tail/brake or turn signal lights. You can make it what ever color you want. Get creative put two in. Alternate colors so it wig wags when you turn it on or runs a rainbow spiral around the turn signal bulb. Smaller bulb = more bulbs.

Hope that makes it even harder to decide what to do

JD

 

[Charlesbusa]

How handy do you want the switch to be?  Something on the inner firings, or hidden?

It's the brown wire.  At the rear of the bike, it's easy, just put the switch inline on the brown wire.

Its a little trickier at the front of the bike.  The brown wire comes off the key switch, then splits to the front for the position lights (european, spare connector everywhere else) and to rear for the running lights.  You'll need to make sure the you put the switch in on the correct side of the split.

Hopefully something I could reach while riding but not required.

If I'm riding in the afternoon and the sun goes down, I'd like to be able to turn on the running lights without stopping. Or vise versa in the morning, I'd like to be able to turn them off when the sun comes up. Just like my car.

 

[CorrodedAlien]

Could you wire the switch onto the high beam switch? I run high beams in the day and only on open roads at night.

Would that work?

 

[Charlesbusa]

Charles.  If Im reading your post correctly I need some info.

Your front running lights are they the front turn signals converted to 1157 bulbs and the 2nd contact on the 1157 bulb is powered to be your running lights?

If this is the case where did you get the power from for your running lights?

If you used the small unused connector in the nose section upper right side (brown) wire to power your running lights this is where your problem will lay.

If you just put a switch on the brown wire you will be cutting on/off the tail light as well you dont neccessarily want that.  

You could put a switch inline with the power source going to your running lights, but normally you would switch the negitive side not the positive side.  Doesnt matter but if you switch the positive side of a circuit and your switch is mounted in an area that could have accidental touching to any bike metal you will have a direct short and immediate problems.  If you switch the negitive side and that happens the light will just come on no worries.

I had the same issue with front running lights and front turn signals not flashing correctly.  

It was easier to just get power or the front running lights from a different source (orange/white) wire.  It's ignition controlled as well.  But you can switch on/off your running lights in the front without affecting the rear circuit.  

I dont know if you have a scorpio alarm and if you used the "factory" plug n play harness but if you did then the power for the alarm is using the brown wire in the back section so switching it on/off kills the power needed for the alarm.  FYI!.

A little more work but easier fix all together.  You will be turning off your running lights every time you want to brake/signal in the daytime.  Too much thought process in a split second when somethings going on.  MY APPROACH was to obtain smaller bulbs and sockets.  (like the turn signal in the corners of your ufo undertail).  Drill a small 1/2 inch or whatever needed hole in the front turn signal housing just above the turn signal bulb.  Insert new bulb and twist a 1/4 turn to lock it into place.  Run wire over to your switch and power.  WALA running lights that are totally seperate and have no affect on your tail/brake or turn signal lights.  You can make it what ever color you want.  Get creative put two in.  Alternate colors so it wig wags when you turn it on or runs a rainbow spiral around the turn signal bulb.  Smaller bulb = more bulbs.

Hope that makes it even harder to decide what to do

JD

I don't have front running lights.  The only reason I specified rear running lights was because I don't want to affect my lowbeam headlight.  I'm not sure if the headlight runs on the same circuit.

If I remember correctly, I won't be able to put a switch on the negative side unless I put the switch in the trunk.  The grounds for the brake and the running lights combine before the quick disconnect at the rear of the bike.  And I'd prefer to put the switch where I could reach it while riding so I wouldn't have to pull over to turn on/off my running lights.

I don't have an alarm.

I planned to turn the running lights off in Daytime, all the time.  Then when night falls, I'd turn them on.  Just like a car.

Adding two more additional lights to be used as running lights is a

idea.  But I'm sure it will be more $$$  expensive also.  I was hoping to buy a switch, get my hands dirty and keep it cheap.  But I might try your approach later when $$$ isn't so hard to come by.  

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[Charlesbusa]

Could you wire the switch onto the high beam switch?  I run high beams in the day and only on open roads at night.

Would that work?

I'd prefer not to do that because I use my highbeams all the time in daylight and some of the time at night. In the city no. In the middle of nowhere yes.

I have an older busa without hazard lights, if I could get one of those clusters that would be cool. But I doubt it'll be cheap.

 

[BusaWhipped]

If I remember correctly, I won't be able to put a switch on the negative side unless I put the switch in the trunk.  The grounds for the brake and the running lights combine before the quick disconnect at the rear of the bike.  And I'd prefer to put the switch where I could reach it while riding so I wouldn't have to pull over to turn on/off my running lights.

I planned to turn the running lights off in Daytime, all the time.  Then when night falls, I'd turn them on.  Just like a car.

The brake lights and running lights share the same ground, so a negative side switch won't work.

The harness containing the brown running light wire runs down the left side of the Busa. It's been a while since I've had the plastics off, so I don't remember exactly where it runs. But you should be safe splicing into the brown wire once the harness is back by the rear inner fairing. It should be going to the rear lights and not the front by then.

If you want to get a little slick with it, you could use a photo sensor and a relay to turn them on when it gets dark and off when it gets light. The curcuit isn't that difficult to build and you don't have to remember to turn the switch on and off.

 

[Charlesbusa]

If I remember correctly, I won't be able to put a switch on the negative side unless I put the switch in the trunk.  The grounds for the brake and the running lights combine before the quick disconnect at the rear of the bike.  And I'd prefer to put the switch where I could reach it while riding so I wouldn't have to pull over to turn on/off my running lights.

I planned to turn the running lights off in Daytime, all the time.  Then when night falls, I'd turn them on.  Just like a car.

The brake lights and running lights share the same ground, so a negative side switch won't work.

The harness containing the brown running light wire runs down the left side of the Busa.  It's been a while since I've had the plastics off, so I don't remember exactly where it runs.  But you should be safe splicing into the brown wire once the harness is back by the rear inner fairing.  It should be going to the rear lights and not the front by then.

If you want to get a little slick with it, you could use a photo sensor and a relay to turn them on when it gets dark and off when it gets light.  The curcuit isn't that difficult to build and you don't have to remember to turn the switch on and off.

A photo snesor would be slick, maybe a future idea when money isn't so tight.

With the integrator kit, a switch on the ground side won't work because it will affect the brake lights also.

What kind of switch, cheap, say from radio shack would I need to buy??

Icemann mentioned shorting problems when putting the switch using the power wires.  What can I do to minimize any possible problems with that??

Thanks guys for the help  

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[BusaWhipped]

Something along these lines will work.  http://www.radioshack.com/product....=search

Make sure you check for enough clearance between the bottom of the switch and any metal.   Also, wrap at least 3/4 of the connectors with electric tape if they are not insulated.

 

[Charlesbusa]

Something along these lines will work.  http://www.radioshack.com/product....=search

Make sure you check for enough clearance between the bottom of the switch and any metal.   Also, wrap at least 3/4 of the connectors with electric tape if they are not insulated.

$2.99, sweet, that's the kind of money I'm talking about

 

[Charlesbusa]

Another question, where does the rear running light circuit start?
At the battery, the fuse box, is there a main bus on a busa??

I'll have to use the power side of the rear running lights.

 

[Sloto200]

I'm not sure that switch would be right for the job unless you spliced the two rear running light power wires together and connected them to the switch. Unless you know if and where the power to the 2 rear running lights come together you might need a single poll double throw switch. I dont have a diagram for the busa nor do i know how the wiring runs on it. You might just have to splice into the running lights power source in the back of the bike and run wires to the front or where ever you decide to mount the switch. Another thing about that switch is if you use a spst switch will it be able to handle the constant flow of power through it or will it fry? Dont know what that particular switch is rated but if you had 2 contacts to distribute the power across, you might be better off.

 

[Charlesbusa]

I'm not sure that switch would be right for the job unless you spliced the two rear running light power wires together and connected them to the switch.  Unless you know if and where the power to the 2 rear running lights come together you might need a single poll double throw switch.  I dont have a diagram for the busa nor do i know how the wiring runs on it.  You might just have to splice into the running lights power source in the back of the bike and run wires to the front or where ever you decide to mount the switch.  Another thing about that switch is if you use a spst switch will it be able to handle the constant flow of power through it or will it fry?  Dont know what that particular switch is rated but if you had 2 contacts to distribute the power across, you might be better off.

Its a 25amp switch, but is that the rating that you're asking about?

I really appreciate the input, I like to research as much as possible before tearing into the busa.

 

[BusaWhipped]

Another question, where does the rear running light circuit start?
At the battery, the fuse box, is there a main bus on a busa??

I'll have to use the power side of the rear running lights.

It starts at the ignition switch.

 

[ICEMANN]

AIght I think I have your problem visualized now.

What you do is mount a switch somewhere up front where you want it. If it's in plastic parts dont worry about shorts. Radio shack sells "spiral wire loom"

you can put your wire (speaker wire is fine cause it's two wires in one) inside the loom from front to rear to protect it.

Take it all the way to the trunk. TEST THIS FIRST BUT..

if you locate the brown wire just before it goes to the tail lights in the trunk you can "CUT IT THERE". By cutting the brown wire at the trunk just before the tail light connections the rear tail lights should go out. Touch the two halves together and they should come back on. ALL WITHOUT AFFECTING THE REST OF THE BIKE OR THE BRAKE LIGHTS.

THE SWITCH:

speaker wire has two wires. Connect one wire to one side of the switch. Connect the other wire to the other side of the switch. Put silicone over the connections so as not to short or come out.

Other end of speaker wires:

Put one on one (1) brown wire you just cut. Put the other on the other 1/2 of that brown wire you just cut. You will be switching power side but oh well no harm. When switch is flipped one way tail lights work. When flipped the other they go out. Has no affect on brake lights or turn signals. Your switching it at the light so it will have no affect on nothing else on the bike.

problem solved.

1/2 hour of time.

$4.59 worth or parts. (wire, loom, switch, crimp connectors or solder, black tape and or silicone).

Hope that helps.

Just test brown wire by cutting it in half or "REMOVING IT" from the white connector to see if that kills your tail lights. should.

JD

 

[Charlesbusa]

AIght I think I have your problem visualized now.  

What you do is mount a switch somewhere up front where you want it.  If it's in plastic parts dont worry about shorts.  Radio shack sells "spiral wire loom"

you can put your wire (speaker wire is fine cause it's two wires in one) inside the loom from front to rear to protect it.

Take it all the way to the trunk.  TEST THIS FIRST BUT..

if you locate the brown wire just before it goes to the tail lights in the trunk you can "CUT IT THERE".  By cutting the brown wire at the trunk just before the tail light connections the rear tail lights should go out.  Touch the two halves together and they should come back on.  ALL WITHOUT AFFECTING THE REST OF THE BIKE OR THE BRAKE LIGHTS.

THE SWITCH:

speaker wire has two wires.  Connect one wire to one side of the switch.  Connect the other wire to the other side of the switch.  Put silicone over the connections so as not to short or come out.

Other end of speaker wires:

Put one on one (1) brown wire you just cut.  Put the other on the other 1/2 of that brown wire you just cut.  You will be switching power side but oh well no harm.  When switch is flipped one way tail lights work.  When flipped the other they go out.  Has no affect on brake lights or turn signals.  Your switching it at the light so it will have no affect on nothing else on the bike.

problem solved.  

1/2 hour of time.

$4.59 worth or parts.  (wire, loom, switch, crimp connectors or solder, black tape and or silicone).

Hope that helps.

Just test brown wire by cutting it in half or "REMOVING IT" from the white connector to see if that kills your tail lights.  should.

JD

Thanks JD.

Another question, what is loom??

 

[Charlesbusa]

Another question, where does the rear running light circuit start?
At the battery, the fuse box, is there a main bus on a busa??

I'll have to use the power side of the rear running lights.

It starts at the ignition switch.

I looked in the service manual and there isn't a wiring diagram.  I hate to tear into the wires up front without already knowing which wire.  And I would rather not run wire the length of the bike, adds weight  

 and puts more resistance into the circuit.

Thanks again guys

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[BusaWhipped]

Here's most of the wiring diagram. The wire you are looking for starts at the ignition switch, far right. When you follow it, it splits and travels both front and back. Front goes to the wmpty connector, back goes to the running lights. Nothing else ties into the circuit.

 

[BusaWhipped]

The image doesn't look as good here as it is. Right click it and Save Picture As. You can read the wire color labels opening it in PS.