Pulling engine-any shortcuts?





#1
Looking at the factory manual on engine removal and wondering if there are any shortcuts. I need to weld my frame and would rather have it done with the frame stripped. I'm worried that the high frequency tig would mess up some of my electronics. Anyone pulled their engines and learned tricks/shortcuts that aren't mention in the factory manual?
Thanks---Tom
 

GPW

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#2
I am pulling a 2005 blown motor today for a customer replacing with a new non-blown motor. I will show you how I prop the bike on the lift seems to make things much easier. Remove the chain, exhaust and radiator, electrical connections and then the motor mounts.
 

Commuta_Busa

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#3
The quickest way I know is to raise the front end high enough so the cyliner head is straight up then it helps with the weight distribution of the engine. It makes it a one man job to remove/instal the engine.
 
#4
The factory manual has you removing the airbox, radiator/oil cooler, throttle bodies, and coils. Is this necessary or can I leave them on and just unplug the connectors?
Thanks,
Tom
Thanks for the input on raising the front end. Looking forward to some pics
 

Commuta_Busa

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#5
For space I would remove the Rad, oil cooler, of course the exhaust, and the airbox. You don't need to remove the coild sticks or throttle bodies. Just make sure everything is disonnected.
 
#6
I figured it would be safer removing the oil cooler/radiator. Thanks for the info on the coils and throttle body though. I will probably start this weekend on getting the engine out. I already have most of the wiring harness disconnected/tank pulled. Not pulling the throttle bodies should keep me from having to sinc them after installation. I've already made the sockets for the engine mount nuts(.50 cents each at the flea market and about 5 minutes of grinding on each---best $2.00 I've ever spent). I should buy every socket I see at the flea market and sell them here!!!:thumbsup: Mine aren't very pretty but I've loosened all the mount nuts, so I know they work.
Thanks for everyones help--any more suggestions would be appreciated and hopeful save me from some painful lessons that others have learned before me!!!
Thanks Again,
Tom
 
#7
Everything came out fine except for one kickstand bolt was cold seized. Should I attempt to heli-coil it or just tap to the next larger size. It seems there is a lot of meat left to make it bigger but it does hold up the bike's weight and I'm sure that Suzuki used the least amount possible to keep the weight down. Anyone else ran into this??
Taking the frame to get welded tomorrow, then I can start putting it all back together. I might just have him fill the hole and then I will tap it out to the original size.
Tom

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P1040505.JPG
 

djsin

Lily's Daddy
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#10
Just curious had did it break?
I'm betting he had a crappy aluminum sub frame and it broke and then caused that to happen...either way if im wrong or not, I wouldn't touch it, get a new frame:poke: being that it is black though its a limited edition a 2007 or newer
 
#11
I won't take pictures and give away all of my secrets...

But

you can make an engine cradle which attaches to the front of your motor...this will allow you to drop the motor without removing ANY of the fluids. Basically you attach the cradle, remove the motor mounts, shift the motor out of the mounts, route your front and rear wiring to the motor...then either lift the roller off intact...or remove your front forks and then you can lift the chassis and use the rear wheel like a wheel barrel.

You can make the cradle out of wood if you like (my first one was)

Put the bike on a rear lift...the attachment points on the motor are lower front and you want two legs to go back and just rest under the rear block. From the side it looks like an L with small uprights on the rear for the rear block to rest on.

The only thing that will need cut/removed is the chain.
 

macon454

181.552 mph Texas mile on a B-King 3/28/09, AKA "C
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#12
I won't take pictures and give away all of my secrets...

But

you can make an engine cradle which attaches to the front of your motor...this will allow you to drop the motor without removing ANY of the fluids. Basically you attach the cradle, remove the motor mounts, shift the motor out of the mounts, route your front and rear wiring to the motor...then either lift the roller off intact...or remove your front forks and then you can lift the chassis and use the rear wheel like a wheel barrel.

You can make the cradle out of wood if you like (my first one was)

Put the bike on a rear lift...the attachment points on the motor are lower front and you want two legs to go back and just rest under the rear block. From the side it looks like an L with small uprights on the rear for the rear block to rest on.

The only thing that will need cut/removed is the chain.


Why not show a picture if works good, so maybe it will help him out.
 
#13
Code:
Just curious had did it break?
The bike is a 2005, the previous owner saw his freinds doing wheelies and figured he would try. The busa jumped up and body slammed him at 20mph. He said he broke 3 ribs and a punctured lung-major hospital time. Kept it for a year thinking about repairing it but decided not to get back on the horse and go on to something else.
Code:
I'm betting he had a crappy aluminum sub frame and it broke and then caused that to happen...either way if im wrong or not, I wouldn't touch it, get a new frame being that it is black though its a limited edition a 2007 or newer
All body panels are trashed and rear subframe(steel) is all torqued out of shape(if it was alumininum it probably wouldn't have snapped the ear off of the rear frame).

Code:
stand hole looks like cast iron.. helicoil or threadsert only..
I believe the whole frame is aluminum(cold seized the threads and ripped them out with the bolt on removal)-I don't think they have a way yet to weld aluminum to cast iron. Most of the frame pieces are cast aluminum.

Code:
Why not show a picture if works good, so maybe it will help him out
Excellent idea-I have to do this again later this summer with my sons bike. I already have mine apart-removed all body panels/tank/radiator/airbox/wiring connectors. Then removed the rear end/swingarm, removed the front end, leaving the main frame/engine hanging from some tie down straps. Lowered it to the floor and then removed the frame off the top of the engine. The wheel barrow style seems a little easier though. My way, I was able to do it completely by myself with no help.
 

macon454

181.552 mph Texas mile on a B-King 3/28/09, AKA "C
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#14
I thought it would be a good idea on the picture also, why not help someone out if you can.
 
#18
cause it aint real..... :whistle:

I would still use a helicoil or threadsert on that cast boss that is stripped out..
Where is a good source for metric helicoil/threadserts? I've wrenched on bikes for over 30 years and never had to use one-thought it would be too hard and always found a workaround. I guess its time to bite the bullet and learn how to do them. Should most large m/c dealers carry assorted sizes or will I have to buy a big kit?
Tom
 

macon454

181.552 mph Texas mile on a B-King 3/28/09, AKA "C
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#19
Where is a good source for metric helicoil/threadserts? I've wrenched on bikes for over 30 years and never had to use one-thought it would be too hard and always found a workaround. I guess its time to bite the bullet and learn how to do them. Should most large m/c dealers carry assorted sizes or will I have to buy a big kit?
Tom
If you have a local Fastenal Store. They should have them.
 

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