Problems with performance, thoughts anyone?

CTA_Busa_LE

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I was reading another post where a member was having similar problems but not exactly the same as mine. I didn't want to thread jack as it can get confusing trying to diagnose too many different bikes in one thread.

I've got an 06 LE that I put a 4-1 Muzzy on this winter. I am running a PCIII, downloaded the map from the website for the Muzzy system when I installed the exhaust. I just turned 6000 miles on it today. I only run shell or amoco 93 octane in the bike. Running stock air filter right now as well. I don't have a TRE or any other engine mods at this time. I will also add I ran the PCIII with my yoshi carbon fiber slip ons and had zero problems with the bike.

The problem. Bike runs great under hard acceleration, no problems at all. When I take it easy at town speeds it I normally run around 40mph in 2nd gear, puts RPM right at 4k. On a constant speed like that in the 4-5K RPM range the bike is not smooth, engine wants to buck a little. When I clutch it and rev it, motor sounds and feels like its loading up.

Exhaust is dry black soot, washes off easily with water. Also it seems since the exhaust change my fuel mileage has also tanked. I rode less than 50 mile today. Fuel tank was full when I started, gauge is showing 1/2 now.

I've also burned a couple tanks of gas in it this spring so gas should be fresh.

I was thinking about starting off with new air filter and changing plugs. Any other thoughts? Should I try a different approach first, if so what?

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Sounds like you have a problem with the map. You're obviously runnin really rich. The black exhaust you mentioned is fuel, also the fact that your fuel mileage has dropped off dramatically shows you're dumpin too much fuel. Definitely check the map you have loaded as there's probably something going on there.
 
GPW :thumbsup: sounds like the map has issues. Before running the new map change or at least clean the plugs. 6K would be real early on a set anyway.
 
Why aren't you running 87 ?

I only run shell or amoco 93 in my vehicles as well. My wife's car requires premium due to super charger, my truck actually gets better MPG with it vs 87 and when I figure cost per mile it is cheaper per mile than running 87. On top of that I have never had any problems with fuel system in any of my vehicles running premium fuels including fuel filters. They also get better performance and do not knock or ping.

My squad car on the other hand gets 87 octane as that is what the county allows. It is bad about knocks and pings due to the fuel and it's extremely common for one of the cars in the fleet to have to go in because an injector is clogged or the fuel filter is clogged. The times I have been able to run higher octane fuel in the car, it runs like a champ.

I run the same in the bike due to having zero problems with my vehicles over the years and the fact of the problems I have with the one vehicle in the drive that runs 87. The manual says 87 or higher and doesn't say anything about not running a higher rated fuel. Also with the busa being fuel injected, I'm a firm believer that the higher rated fuel will keep the injectors cleaner. If there is a reason I shouldn't run 93 other than cost I'm willing to listen but if it all comes down 87 is cheaper and the manual says you can run it I would rather spend the extra 60 to 80 cents a tank and have piece of mind that the chances of having to pull the injectors is at a minimum.
 
Well on a side note, the map has alot to do with it. Every bike ( engine ) is differnt and needs to be tuned acording to changes made on air/fuel and exhaust changes. As far as the fuel, I hear what you guys are saying about the octane but thats not what its all about. The super unleaded or Higher octane fuels are alot cleaner and more refined.
Just an added note......
 
When you switch the maps make sure you also either clean or replace your plugs too. Just for giggles try a tank of 87 with the new map and plugs. See what kind of mileage you get and how the bike runs during your normal ridding conditions. Then swap to your 93 and do the same process. You'll be a better judge at determining what gas you like in your bike.

If you're still not happy with the way the bike performs with the new map then maybe it's time to consider a dyno tune for your bike. If you're willing to pay extra for gas I would think paying a little extra for a proper tune would be a legitimate argument.
 
I was going to say it sounds like its running a bit rich, try the new map from gpw...and you may also try to lean or richen that area of the rpm rang via the 3 bottons on the pc3
don't go to lean though, you know what happens when we do that! my bike lost about 3-4 miles per gallon with my boz b2 exhaust, but picked up 8 HP and dropped 16 #s so I'm happy..
 
There are a lot of myths out there about Octane.

It is only a way to measure resistance to detonation. It is not a measure of power and is not by itself a measurement of the quality of gasoline.
The detergents in the fuel are what will keep the injectors clean. In most cases the same company is using the same detergent package in all their grades of fuel. Higher octane fuels are usually slower burning and may contain additives that slightly reduce the amount of BTUs per pound the fuel gives off when burned. This can reduce power and efficiency.

When drag racing my bike (Gen 1) with the stock compression, it would make more mph with 87 octane than 91 octane fuel from the same station. After I built the engine and went to a true 13.2:1 compression I dynoed it. It was tuned to Sunoco GT Plus which is a 104 octane unleaded racing gasoline that pretty much duplicate pump gas with the same specific gravity and oxygenation. We drained the tank and filled it with 91 octane pump gas. It made slightly more HP on pump gas even though it wasn’t tuned for the pump gas.

You are not going to hurt it by running 93 octane but you might see a bit better performance from 87.

Regardless you don’t want to have any detonation but 89 will give you plenty of insurance against that on a Gen 1 bike and I don’t see any reason to run more than 87.

While more racing oriented, these two threads have a bit more info as well as my dyno run mentioned above.
Link1 Link2


Take Greg up on the map offer. I think you will see a difference. More so if you get it on a dyno with a good operator.
 
There are a lot of myths out there about Octane.

It is only a way to measure resistance to detonation. It is not a measure of power and is not by itself a measurement of the quality of gasoline.
The detergents in the fuel are what will keep the injectors clean. In most cases the same company is using the same detergent package in all their grades of fuel. Higher octane fuels are usually slower burning and may contain additives that slightly reduce the amount of BTUs per pound the fuel gives off when burned. This can reduce power and efficiency.

When drag racing my bike (Gen 1) with the stock compression, it would make more mph with 87 octane than 91 octane fuel from the same station. After I built the engine and went to a true 13.2:1 compression I dynoed it. It was tuned to Sunoco GT Plus which is a 104 octane unleaded racing gasoline that pretty much duplicate pump gas with the same specific gravity and oxygenation. We drained the tank and filled it with 91 octane pump gas. It made slightly more HP on pump gas even though it wasn’t tuned for the pump gas.

You are not going to hurt it by running 93 octane but you might see a bit better performance from 87.

Regardless you don’t want to have any detonation but 89 will give you plenty of insurance against that on a Gen 1 bike and I don’t see any reason to run more than 87.

While more racing oriented, these two threads have a bit more info as well as my dyno run mentioned above.
Link1 Link2


Take Greg up on the map offer. I think you will see a difference. More so if you get it on a dyno with a good operator.

+1. You beat me to it! The octane rating is just a difference of how much the fuel can be compressed before it spontaneously combusts. Higher the octane, the more it can be compressed, lower octane, the less it can be compressed. This is why some engines have minimum octane ratings. If the compression ratio is high enough and you use a low octane fuel, you'll get detonation.
 
I was told by a auto mechanic that if your vehicle is rated to run on 87 octane, that higher octane could cause injector issues over a period of time. Don't know if this is true for the Busa. Try 87 octane and see how she runs. That new map sounds good to.
 
For the busa, there is no injector issues with running whatever octane you want. unleaded, leaded, oxygenated, etc. Perhaps over a very long period of time with it sitting for a very long period of time you can never completely rule out the chance that you might have an issue.

I was told by a auto mechanic that if your vehicle is rated to run on 87 octane, that higher octane could cause injector issues over a period of time. Don't know if this is true for the Busa.
 
i would think you would have to run a different temperature of plug if your gonna run the higher octane stuff...maybe im wrong.....
 
For the busa, there is no injector issues with running whatever octane you want. unleaded, leaded, oxygenated, etc. Perhaps over a very long period of time with it sitting for a very long period of time you can never completely rule out the chance that you might have an issue.

I don't know what mechanic you were talking to, but I wouldn't want him workin on my fuel system. . . Octane won't hurt the injectors at all. As stated above it's simply a measure of resistance to detonation.

i would think you would have to run a different temperature of plug if your gonna run the higher octane stuff...maybe im wrong.....

No, you don't have to change the plug temp when changing octane.
 
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