problems starting after it gets hot
- Thread starter bbac504
- Start date
sounds like vapor lock
could be a weak fuel pump or a leaky injector.. a leaky injector might show up as a "black" smoke when you get the bike to fire a half hour later.. (you would also be able to see fuel or a drip down the throttle bores with the engine off/ key on)
vapor lock on a FI motor is pretty hard to do as the pressures are too high (
Technically vapor lock is fuel boiling in the fuel line, new fuel simply flashes to vapor and creates more pressure than the pump can overcome, this is easy at 6 lbs of pressure but at 100? not really
Heat soaked "no starts" can be a BIG variety of things..
when it restarts does it come right to life? is there any smoke? does is sputter? has it ever just shut off?
vapor lock on a FI motor is pretty hard to do as the pressures are too high (
Technically vapor lock is fuel boiling in the fuel line, new fuel simply flashes to vapor and creates more pressure than the pump can overcome, this is easy at 6 lbs of pressure but at 100? not really
Heat soaked "no starts" can be a BIG variety of things..
when it restarts does it come right to life? is there any smoke? does is sputter? has it ever just shut off?
tb's = throttle bodies, I guess I was off the mark on the vapor lock comment, that's why I always ask the local gurus about my problems. Anyway if you do a search for throttle boddie sync it should pull up for you, or someone will jump in with the link.
when you turn on the key, you should be able to hear the pump cycle.. if it is running dry it will never "pull down".. Try cycling the key 2 or 3 times and see if the sound of the pump is different.. (try to start up)
if no go: Then try the "lifting the tank" as suggested... see if the pump sounds like it hits a load.. you should be able to hear the pump load up (slow down or the speed change)
GSXTacy is correct, that could be a source of a "vapor" lock of sorts... not sure of Zuk's reason for moving the pump (auto manufactures did it for pump cooling and longevity) If the pump is running "hot" it could induce this lock.. (my bad, I do not work on "dry" pumps other than in racing apps)
if no go: Then try the "lifting the tank" as suggested... see if the pump sounds like it hits a load.. you should be able to hear the pump load up (slow down or the speed change)
GSXTacy is correct, that could be a source of a "vapor" lock of sorts... not sure of Zuk's reason for moving the pump (auto manufactures did it for pump cooling and longevity) If the pump is running "hot" it could induce this lock.. (my bad, I do not work on "dry" pumps other than in racing apps)
I think the fuel boils in the pump because it is so close to the case with almost no insulation. Thats why it takes about 1/2 an hour to happen. Then the system cools down and all is good to go. Your best best is to get some quick release tank pins so you can just lift it up.
NCpanther01
Registered
Please do a search on this subject! You may need another fan mod or it may be another problem all together...my 2 cents!
if it was something like this, I would expect that the age of the pump would have some bearing on the issue... weak pump etc..
cycling the ignition key off/on a number of times might just provide a short term cure.
I would not change any parts until you can sort of chase down the issue a bit better.. I fought with my techs all the time over just swapping parts until some basics had been covered.. spark/fuel/compression
Lifting the tank sounds like a bandaid fix to a weak pump (well weak for the application) but at least would narrow the problem down to the pump..
unless he is over heating, it shouldnt effect the pump. unless like Mr. Bogus said and it's getting weak which might make it more suseptable to heat sensitivity.
A long shot but maybe the pump needs cleaned. If it's gunked up it might have to work harder to pump and over heats.
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