Preparing busa for dyno-tune?

E

edcop

Banned
I am going to get my 2008 dyno-tuned and was wondering if there is anything I should do before I take it in to prepare it before it gets dyno-tuned?

I have the pair valve blocked off, should that be a problem and should I let the guy know that is doing the dyno-tune?

Any tip and such would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
 
A lot of people change their oil, sync the throttle bodies, change spark plugs, and such. Basically a lot of maintenance stuff to make sure the bike is in tip top shape.

I am going to get a tune in Juneish. I plan on doing most of that just to make sure the bike gets the best tune.

No the blocked pair valve is not a problem. They will probably ask all you have done to the bike so just tell him that and whatever else you have
 
RussellJ said:
A lot of people change their oil, sync the throttle bodies, change spark plugs, and such. Basically a lot of maintenance stuff to make sure the bike is in tip top shape.

I am going to get a tune in Juneish. I plan on doing most of that just to make sure the bike gets the best tune.

No the blocked pair valve is not a problem. They will probably ask all you have done to the bike so just tell him that and whatever else you have
Click to expand...

+1, and just make sure the tuner has a good reputation. You don't want to take it to someone with no experience tuning Busa's or with whatever fuel controller you choose.
 
make sure you have a clean air filter, make sure the oil is clean and at level - They took my bike to redline several times, it made me cringe each time.
 
If you are going to change the oil then leave the fairings off. It is not really a necessity but it will halp the fans on the dyno keep the engine cooled down and if there is any doubt about the condition of your clutch it should be checked.
 
I would check the air psi in your tire and lube/adjust your chain. Depending how many miles are on the bike, you may check your air filter to make sure it's clean. If it's aftermarket make sure the gasket is in place and installed properly.

Have the A/F checked while you are there and make sure they strap the rear down so you don't get tire slip. Other than that, good gas.......not much else depending who/where you are taking it to be dynoed... :beerchug:
 
Got-Busa? said:
I would check the air psi in your tire and lube/adjust your chain. Depending how many miles are on the bike, you may check your air filter to make sure it's clean. If it's aftermarket make sure the gasket is in place and installed properly.

Have the A/F checked while you are there and make sure they strap the rear down so you don't get tire slip. Other than that, good gas.......not much else depending who/where you are taking it to be dynoed... :beerchug:
Click to expand...

Got-Busa, I have to call you out on this one. You CAN NOT dyno tune anything with a combustion motor without checking the A/F ratio. That is how it is done. You add or subtract fuel in order to make the A/F ratio optimal which is around 13:1 to 12.9:1. If your tuner does not have wide band O2 sensor stuck in the exhuast bike then you need to pack your stuff up and leave.
 
JGGUNS said:
Got-Busa, I have to call you out on this one. You CAN NOT dyno tune anything with a combustion motor without checking the A/F ratio. That is how it is done. You add or subtract fuel in order to make the A/F ratio optimal which is around 13:1 to 12.9:1. If your tuner does not have wide band O2 sensor stuck in the exhuast bike then you need to pack your stuff up and leave.
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Call me out? ???

:rofl:

I've seen enough people dyno bikes without even installing the sniffer that it's worth a mention. Most people don't have a clue what they are doing and don't know better. Until he posts the name/shop of the tuner I always mention it. Even on baseline NON-TUNING runs, it's pointless to run it without... ;)
 
Ed - you should have the bike exactly as you plan to run it - they will tune it to the way it is - so if you plan to change type of air filter (ie stock to K&N) or make any other mods that could affect combustion (TRE, etc) do it before the tune - also decide what you want tuner to aim for - I wanted best A/F ratio for smooth performance on street not the last ounce of HP that could be wrung from the engine for racing - just my 2 cents -
 
1. Check your valve lash FIRST and adjust as needed. (why does everyone seem to skip this step?!!)

2. NOW synch the throttle bodies. (synching throttle bodies without first adjusting valves is like putting on a bandaid when you should've gotten stitches!)

3. Oil change

4. Clean, adjust, and lube chain.

5. Check to make sure your rear brake is not dragging. Might be a good time to flush the line.

6. OK, now get your dyne tune. :thumbsup:
 
Go with full tank of gas. You don't want to have the dyno process stopped because someone has to go out and get gas when your in the middle of the tune.

Make sure your tire has some meat on it. The drum will wear down the thread depth. I once had to commute three hours to a dyno tune. Good thing I trailered it there or I would never have made the return trip on the same tire after the tune.

 
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And realize that you will be signing a waiver before things get started. If the engine grenades on the dyno, the repair is on your dime. Not meant to scare you, its just the facts.
 
Take a camera and some ear plugs to enjoy the show. Here is a vid after I bolted on the RCC turbo.

 
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The video at that time was with a 6# spring. I now have 13 lbs good for 311hp. I do have a Tial 50mm BOV but they are quiet when they pop. I will get vid when I get home.
 
What motor work was done to hold that much boost? Im looking into a stage 1 and I dont wanna mess my motor up..
 
Pit Bull 13 said:
What motor work was done to hold that much boost? Im looking into a stage 1 and I dont wanna mess my motor up..
Click to expand...

Gen 1 stock can handle 8# boost. Gen 2 stock can handle 5# boost when talking about a bolt on kit with no motor work.
Loud BOV.... go with HKS.

If your bike motor is normally healthy it will do fine on the dyno. Remember its better to have a motor problem on the dyno instead of when your flying down the highway at 110 mph.
 
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