Please Help!!! Clutch Problems

D1busa

D1busa

Registered
I have an 02 hayabusa and when it's cold it runs but after 20 minutes the clutch starts to slip to the point where the bike won't move. I have replaced the master cylinder with an oem master, I replaced the line with a steel braided line, I checked the slave sleeve and cleaned it. I dropped the oil pan and checked the sump and the screen and that's clear. The clutches are 1.5 years old and seeing I live in Chicago and only put maybe 800 miles since I replaced it. I'm thinking maybe the oil pump but besides that I'm completely stuck.
 
Man i am trying to remember, i swear there was a thread some time ago on this. hang in there i am sure others will pipe in. It sounds like to me though when the oil is getting to temp things are going bad for you. I will continue looking as well.
 
When did it start showing this problem, that is after which change did it start slipping? Did you make all the changes you listed to solve the problem?
Jim
 
It's started when the rear caliber locked up. We figured when that happened, it burned the clutch. So that is when I installed the new clutch. Just switched out the oil pump but still have the same problem
 
You mention you put 800 miles on the bike since installing the new clutch. It sounds like the bike was rideable until recently. The oil pump has nothing to do with the clutch slipping. You might want to disassemble the clutch and refer to the parts diagram or the service manual to make sure all the parts are install correctly. It sounds like something is preventing the clutch springs from applying the total pressure on the clutch pack.
 
Master and slave likely won't cause a problem with slippage, they are more likely to not open the clutch when needed. I can't imagine a master or slave building pressure to hold the clutch open when the bike gets warm. I can't imagine any reason to look at the oil pump. I would pull the clutch fibers/steels out and check for obvious wear or heat. Measure all the components and see what your total stack height is. The other thing would be oil, but the Busa clutch is pretty forgiving. You could put in a wet clutch motorcycle oil just to be sure. Check to see that your pressure plate springs are not broken and be sure to properly tighten/torque them on reassembly.

I would not associate the rear caliper locking up with the clutch being bad.
 
If your oil is not motorcycle specific the fiber plates can absorb the friction modifiers contained in car oil and cause slippage. Put in Amsoil when you get it sorted out. I don't drag race or do burn outs but I have 60,000+ miles on the OEM clutch on my 06 with Amsoil.
 
Not to start the next oil war, but I've used Mobil-1 car oil for years with no issue. You can feel the difference in clutch modulation which is why I use it. I doubt this is the root cause of the issue but changing it to motorcycle oil eliminates the potential. There are some bikes that absolutely can't deal with the slippery car oil.
 
Are the plates glazed? What condition were the original plates (Steels in particular) in when you swapped em out?
 
You need to disassemble the clutch and measure the stack to see if its in spec.
What did you replace, just the fibers?
Are they oem?
Did you soak them in oil before installing them?
 
The clutch that I put in is an oem clutch, not sure of the condition of the plates when I removed them. I soaked both steels and fibers for the new clutch. (Cone ring in first facing motor, then flat ring, then funky fiber, then Steel. 4th and 5th steel are the thicker steels) What's the correct measurement of the stack suppose to be? Thanks again guys for your help
 
Sounds like you installed correctly, but you should still do a visual inspection to make sure that they are not burned up or blue. I have installed new clutches and had the steels turn blue with a 100 miles of street riding. Sometimes you just get subpar parts. It happens even from the best companies.
 
Just an update, when the bike warms up and the clutch starts slipping I can bleed the line and the bike works again. But 10 min latter the clutch starts slipping again.
 
whjen you bleed are you getting a lot of air? If so you may need to use a power bleeder on it.
 
I'm still dealing with the same issue. I recently noticed that when my clutch starts slipping, I can bleed the clutch line and it works again. After a certain amount of time of riding it starts slipping again. I can only see that there is air getting in my line, but I don't know where to start. I know each banjo bolt has two washers for sure. any other ideas?
 
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