PC2 Install


It'll probably be covered in the instructions, but I want to have all the prep work done when the PC2 arrives...
1) Will I need to reset the TPS after installing the PC2?
2) Must the stock box be set to the factory 0 settings or does that not matter?
3) Is there any hardware I'll want/need to mount the box (heh-heh)?
4) Are there map sources other than Dynojet?
You do not need to adjust the TPS, before or after the pc2 install.

If you had changed you ECU with a Yosh box, then yes you must reset it to zero.

No hardware needed, will mount under the seat just fine.

Yes you can obtain maps from a certified PC2 tuning center:

Jeffs right there could be a problem when trying to go back to 0....Yosh says that they are coming out with a new box that goes on each bike much like the PC but does not trick the ECM but remaps it much like the current box but is like the PC in that it is very adjustable which is where the current yosh box is weak......I think there is going to be some very good products coming out in the next year or so now that most bikes are coming with fuel injection...
Jeff I set my TPS with lap top connected...it will not always be on 0 even though the dash says it is....Bob and I had a lot of discusions about this....if your map is off at the start the entire map will be off ...its easy to check though ...your lap top wil tell you if at idle if you are at 0%
So I want the stock box set back to factory defaults. Is there a way to reset it without the Yosh box or am I stuck making another trip to the dealer?
Just to confirm, with the PC2 installed AND connected to the laptop, I can see what the mapping is and where the TPS is set? This will allow me to double check what the dealer has done if this is true;-)
You must use a yosh box to re-set the ECU back to stock, no other way out (unless you get a new ECU $$$).

The pc2 will not alow you to see *ANY* thing that the yosh box has done. The PC2 does not program the ECU, it reads the signals from the ECU, then sends modified (fools the system) out to the injectors. When you load a map from a laptop, it goes into the PC2 not the ECU.

Now the bad news..... the yosh box is just a bunch of resistors (read analog here), you really have no way of knowing if zero on the yosh box is really (the resistance value )zero on the ECU from the factory. Yes it will be close, but if people are really worried about TPS not at 0% when they start map loading, then just think about this!
I hadn't thought about looking in the box for the flapper settings. I will if no one has the answer.
I just got my laptop loaded with Windows 98 so I can run the SW and make a few changes. I'm still betting I won't be able to fix the 3500 glitch much. I'll bet they are tossing in fuel to fill in a dip that is there when accelerating through. So, if you are cruising or transitioning there it will be rich. We'll see...
So, I got the ECU set back to 0 (as far as I know) and the PC2 installed. I am running the 004 map from DynoJet. It is much better, though the glitch at 3500 rpm is still there (improved however). In the map at small openings they richen (a bunch) at 3000-3500 then lean at 4000. I'll play a bit and see if I can help it any (every bike is different ;), but my guess is that it'll end up being "the tradeoff". Its nothing I can't live with though. The map indicates that the stock ECU is rich at 2000 and 4000 across the range and lean at 3000 and 5500 (ish) across the range. Its odd that they don't play with ignition advance at all. I wouldn't expect them to do anything with throttle position, but they do at one spot (3000 at 5% opening) -- odd. Again, wish I still had access to a dyno;-( Anyone know at what RPM the airbox flapper opens?
Mr. Bond, your going to feel just like I did....."get Me to the nearest Dyno-Jet250!".

But whats so cool is the more you understand what you can really do with the pw2, your going to realise how much control you could have with what changes you want to make!(talk about tweaking!)
I agree with about ingnition timing, I don't think Dyno-Jet has really stepped into that yet?
I would think if you pulled your lid off, and watched the flapper while you were cracking the thottle, or running the rpm's up, you could see that away what rpm the flapper started to open?

Have you tried tweaking with the pw2 yet; not changing the maps? I wonder if you tried to richen it up on the bottom more if that would help? Hmmm....?