Ok...APE's Crank Services...




Daddy Fatsac

Registered
I'm currently in the process of having my crank stroked, lighten and balanced, and counterblancer removed. I'm curious to know has anyone else done this?

Stroked $750
L&B $199
Alumin plate $40
CB gear removed $40

Oh and this adds 112cc to the motor without big bores. I'm listening to results...cuz I'm going to be PISSED if I wasted my money. The more I think about it...the more I think I should have asked someone first about it. But its there already and its too late. *sobs*
 

Revlis

Re-Recycled, Busa-Less...
Donating Member
Registered
I dunno, maybe I am dumb, but you are talking about getting a whole new crank right? I just do not know how you can modify a crank to produce a longer stroke...I have heard of stroker cranks but not a stock one being turned into a stroker.

Is it just me?
rock.gif
 

Revlis

Re-Recycled, Busa-Less...
Donating Member
Registered
Yes it can be sent in...check out this link.

http://www.hayabusazone.com/crank.html
APE offers two stroker crankshafts for the Suzuki Hayabusa.

The first is the popular 5 mm version that APE performs on the customer
supplied OEM Hayabusa crankshaft. The rod journals are relocated and resized
to achieve the additional stroke. The new journals are harder and stronger
than stock. Finally the crank is computer balanced to extremely close
tolerances. Options include removing the counterbalancer gear and lightening.
This crank shaft add approximately 112cc of displacement to the busa engine.
This crankshaft must be used with a 2.5 mm "stroker plate" also available
from APE.

The price of the 5 mm stroker on a customer supplied crankshaft is $750.00[/QUOTE]

So, they cut and then re-assemble crank?  Dude you going to let someone cut on your crank?
rock.gif
Ouch!   Seriously though, Thats wild.  The stroker plate answered my next question.
I had never heard of doing this to a stock crank...Well not all that surprising really I am not much of a wrench.  Should be sweet, let us know how it turns out and how she runs.  

Now why didn't you go for the Full replacement crank and rods?  Come on what's $3500 amongst friends?
biggrin.gif
 Pricey buggar...
 

Daddy Fatsac

Registered
Why?  If you didn't know...I'm already at $6.5k in repairs already.  Yes...that is alot of money.  I don't have additional $2k to drop on the crank alone.  I can thank the pair valve for all my troubles.  But she is going to be one bad non-turbo biznitch when shes done.  Sitting at 1410cc when done without big bores sounds damn good to me.

Oh I'm also getting the lighting and balancing done as well. Thats addition $200. This is all being done to a new crank...the old crank got damaged badly.

But comes to find out that APE is able to repair cranks as long as the MAIN journal isn't damaged. I figure that is something good to know so you won't run out and buy another $650 dollar crank when you don't need to.
 

rubbersidedown

BUSA-RIDIN'-BASTID
Donating Member
Registered
I'm havin' trouble figuring this out . Ok...move big end bearing further away from cranks main bearings . ok . longer stroke . hence the extra cubes . is there actually room at TDC for this process ? Wow . So now compression , goes thru the roof . Whats it go up to bro ? The head gaskets gonna be able to deal with this ? I mean cool if it is . Is yer ignition still gonna light the fires at the same time? If it does,wont that be happening before the piston reaches the normal place it used to fire . Its gonna be up the wall higher now right? Are we not gonna have a little pre-ignition goin' on .
Time for a disclaimer . People get pissy about things like this sometimes....I AM TRYING TO LEARN .
nuff said ?
So now....the boys(crank strokers..hee hee) figure you can send her right up to 14,000 without a prob . So, are you are gonna go in an' retard or remove the stock rev limiter ? The rest of the mill gonna be ok with this process , yer talkin' a few grand here.?
You've increased the stroke , it WAS my understanding that this USUALLY led to more TORQUE , not much more horsepower . ? With the added cubes will it be ness to dump in more go-fast(air,fuel air/fuel mix) ?

I've actually got about 10 more questions but i wont inundate[sp] you with them 2nite....
yer probably already thinkin'......what a .......
 

race24x

Registered
How did your pair valve cause all of your problems I am just wondering If I should be looking at mine for some sort of problem
 

Daddy Fatsac

Registered
Rubbersidedown...I can't even begin to answer those questions. Cuz I haven't the slightest clue. Will I raise it to 14000 rpms...most likely not. Like you said alot of other stuff goes with the mix. My mechanic will let me know about everything if we hit any road blocks putting it back together. But if you really wish to know e-mail John at APE. Hes been very helpful and seems to be the one that knows about Busas there. Will the head gasket be able to handle it? A spring gasket comes with the new Wiseco standard 13:1 piston kit. I think it should handle it. If not...more problems...

Race 24x yes my Pair Valve did all this. So if your having the slightest of backfires remove it!!
 

Lumpy

Registered
I was just wondering what exactly it was the backfires did to your bike?? mine is not but i have heard of several that do. also what would the pair valve have to do with the backfires/damage?? just asking to try and get a better understanding if the valve and how it works with the engine
thanks
 

rubbersidedown

BUSA-RIDIN'-BASTID
Donating Member
Registered
 A spring gasket comes with the new Wiseco standard 13:1 piston kit.  I think it should handle it.  If not...more problems...

 So if your having the slightest of backfires remove it!!
it's this kinda stuff that I'm worried about for YOU there ma' man . If that piston's comin' up 5 mm higher , you just added more compression . Shouldn't be a prob fer yer new pistons , might be for yer head gasket . maybe . I dunno .

You got some lumpy cams goin in there too ?

Somebody has to be makin' 'em by now . Them Kawi dudes built that zx12 to leave them valves hangin' open for like 300 degrees . We should be doin that 2 .

Wish ya all the best with yer Big Bore Bike .

Which will never be a .....big bore .

cool.gif
 

Revlis

Re-Recycled, Busa-Less...
Donating Member
Registered
Why?  If you didn't know...I'm already at $6.5k in repairs already.  Yes...that is alot of money.  I don't have additional $2k to drop on the crank alone.  I can thank the pair valve for all my troubles.  But she is going to be one bad non-turbo biznitch when shes done.  Sitting at 1410cc when done without big bores sounds damn good to me.

Oh I'm also getting the lighting and balancing done as well.  Thats addition $200.  This is all being done to a new crank...the old crank got damaged badly.  

But comes to find out that APE is able to repair cranks as long as the MAIN journal isn't damaged.  I figure that is something good to know so you won't run out and buy another $650 dollar crank when you don't need to.
Yeah I was going for sarcasm in regards to the $3500 Crank and rod set...Seemed a little steep, even for custom work.
Good luck on the project, I had forgotten what had happened to your ride. That was rough.
 

Revlis

Re-Recycled, Busa-Less...
Donating Member
Registered
I'm havin' trouble figuring this out .  Ok...move big end bearing further away from cranks main bearings .  ok . longer stroke . hence the extra cubes . is there actually room at TDC for this process ? Wow .   So now compression , goes thru the roof .  Whats it go up to bro ?  The head gaskets gonna be able to deal with this ?   I mean cool if it is .  Is yer ignition still gonna light the fires at the same time? If it does,wont that be happening before the piston reaches the normal place it used to fire .  Its gonna be up the wall higher now right?   Are we not gonna have a little pre-ignition goin' on .  
       Time for a disclaimer .   People get pissy about things like this sometimes....I AM TRYING TO LEARN .
   nuff said ?  
So now....the boys(crank strokers..hee hee) figure you can send her right up to 14,000 without a prob .   So, are you are gonna go in an' retard or remove the stock rev limiter ?  The rest of the mill gonna be ok with this process ,  yer talkin' a few grand here.?
 You've increased the stroke , it WAS my understanding that this USUALLY led to more TORQUE , not much more horsepower .  ?   With the added cubes will it be ness to dump in more go-fast(air,fuel air/fuel mix) ?  

  I've actually got about 10 more questions but i wont inundate[sp] you with them 2nite....
  yer probably already thinkin'......what a .......
The first is the popular 5 mm version that APE performs on the customer
supplied OEM Hayabusa crankshaft. The rod journals are relocated and resized
to achieve the additional stroke. The new journals are harder and stronger
than stock. Finally the crank is computer balanced to extremely close
tolerances. Options include removing the counterbalancer gear and lightening.
This crank shaft add approximately 112cc of displacement to the busa engine.
This crankshaft <span style='color:orangered'>must be used with a 2.5 mm "stroker plate"</span>also available
from APE.[/QUOTE]

Cool, you need a "Stroker Plate"...Heh

SO stroke increases 5mm, plate raises head 2.5mm.  Stock Busa Compression is 11:1, will this raise the compression in the same manner as a shaved deck?  So we would be looking at like 12:1
rock.gif
?  Cool deal, looking forward to seeing the Dyno chart.  

Later
 

Daddy Fatsac

Registered
Rubbersidedown...You know thats a good question about that head gasket. I'll be asking my mechanic about that in a few minutes. I really don't know all that I will need done. But if that raises compression on top of the 13:1 pistons...man.

Relvis...I will no longer have stock pistons which are 11:1. My new ones are 13:1. The horsepower is there...I'm looking for MORE torque. This is for any Gxr 1000 dude thinking hes going to blow me out the water.
 

Daddy Fatsac

Registered
I was just wondering what exactly it was the backfires did to your bike??  mine is not but i have heard of several that do.  also what would the pair valve have to do with the backfires/damage?? just asking to try and get a better understanding if the valve and how it works with the engine
thanks

You can find my post on here about what happened.

Back to Rubbersidedown...from what I've been reading that Steel Spring Head gasket should be enough. But if you know of a stronger gasket please let me know.
 

hayaboosta

Registered
Check the part number on the head gasket included with the Wiseco kit.  It should have a HP after the numbers.  That will be the new preferred gasket.  As mentioned on this site before, inspect the gasket prior to install to determine the "floating" inner gasket is properly located.

A word of caution on the lightening of the crank.  When you remove the counter balance gear and additional weight from the crank you lose some "flywheel effect" of crankshaft inertia.  When you remove too much weight, it becomes apparent when leaving from a street light and the bike will dip sharply in RPM once the clutch is fully engaged, or under trailing throttle (engine braking) entering a corner, it will feel like a two stroke.

I have seen a few lightened crankshafts replaced with new OEM units to return the bike to normal.  I would make sure the purpose, and intended use of your bike is expressed to APE and that the info is relayed to the one performing the work (APE does not do their cranks).  Best of luck!
 

Daddy Fatsac

Registered
Check the part number on the head gasket included with the Wiseco kit.  It should have a HP after the numbers.  That will be the new preferred gasket.  As mentioned on this site before, inspect the gasket prior to install to determine the "floating" inner gasket is properly located.

A word of caution on the lightening of the crank.  When you remove the counter balance gear and additional weight from the crank you lose some "flywheel effect" of crankshaft inertia.  When you remove too much weight, it becomes apparent when leaving from a street light and the bike will dip sharply in RPM once the clutch is fully engaged, or under trailing throttle (engine braking) entering a corner, it will feel like a two stroke.

I have seen a few lightened crankshafts replaced with new OEM units to return the bike to normal.  I would make sure the purpose, and intended use of your bike is expressed to APE and that the info is relayed to the one performing the work (APE does not do their cranks).  Best of luck!
What exactly is the HP going to tell me? And two are you telling me to leave the counterbalance gear on there? Or just not do the lightening and balancing portion of the crank services. They just received the crank 3 days ago. I don't think they have done the lightening and balancing of the crank yet.
 

Revlis

Re-Recycled, Busa-Less...
Donating Member
Registered
Rubbersidedown...You know thats a good question about that head gasket.  I'll be asking my mechanic about that in a few minutes.  I really don't know all that  I will need done.  But if that raises compression on top of the 13:1 pistons...man.  

Relvis...I will no longer have stock pistons which are 11:1.  My new ones are 13:1.  The horsepower is there...I'm looking for MORE torque.  This is for any Gxr 1000 dude thinking hes going to blow me out the water.
Dude, you should be able to pull a freakin Streamliner trailer behind that thing when done...

How are your wheelie skills? If they aren't all that good now I betcha your going to be getting really good. Thing should pull like a mother...
 



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