Ok...APE's Crank Services...

FYI,
The .385 Megacycle, V&H, Carpenter cams DON'T touch the valve guides like the Big Webs
GIXX1300R also sells a neat piece to help your timing chain and tensioner work better with the stroker motor!

Nick,
Can you elaborate on why most people don't run the manual tensioner?
 
My bike is ridden daily and does see duty on the Dragstrip. So far it has 6000 miles on the motor and has not missed a beat. I get fuel milage that is pretty damn good considering how big the motor is (about 180-190 to a tank as long as I'm cruising). When I built my motor I set of the crank and connecting rod bearing loose to keep from spinning a bearing. Compression is 13:1 and I running very big cams. Use the stock Generation 3 cam chain tensioner with my spacer. Manual tensioners suck and will cause the cam chain to break. I have to run a Car fuel pump since the stock fuel pump could not give enough volume to supply the motor.
 
NO,
I have 2, 2000 Busas and BOTH have the STOCK RECALL hydraulic tensioners in them.
1 is "stock".
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1 is built.
wow.gif

Even the guys with the 400 hp turbos run the stock one.
GET A NEW OEM TIMING CHAIN, while you are there.
It's only $60 and has NO stretch.
 
I'm freakin confused now...I hear at one place to replace the recalled one cuz it will jump off the wheel. The next person says to get the manual one.

Now my question is...does things move around in there that much where a manual tensioner would cause the chain to break? From my understanding things wasn't suppose to move that much inside there.
 
Well..................I'm in NO way an expert on all of this.
I just know when things get too deep for me, I get with someone that I trust and go with it.
I trust and respect the opinions of several members at
SuzukiHayabusa.org
and they run the OEM recall on some seriously HIGH HP bikes.
I've heard that it's difficult to know, "how tight is too tight" when adjusting the manual tensioners, and that can cause a problem when stuff gets to moving at 10,400 rpms.
wow.gif
 
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