Ok…oil gurus

[TXBusa05LE]

Changed the oil yesterday. Went with FormulaShell 20w50. It’s not energy conserving or synthetic. I used the 20w50 due to the high temps here in TX. It’s rated SL like most of the oils I found, but it was one of the only ones that said it replaced SG.

I took it for a quick spin around the block and didn’t notice any problems shifting. I’m going on a longer ride today so we’ll see what happens.

So, what did I screw up? Let the beating begin…and for what it’s worth…it was $1.82 a qt.

http://www.shell-lubricants.com/products/pdf/FormulaShellMotorOils.pdf

 

[clrwtrbusa]

I stick with the made for bikes oils, due to the fact that our clutches are covered in the same oil. You may notice the clutch slipping later on due to the deposits from this oil on the plates. My choice for oil is Castrol Actevo 4m in the turbo bike and Motul in the 1000. Same high temps here in Fl and they both perform very well.

 

[Burger King]

100 people will give you 100 different opinions. If you want to really blow your mind on the topic of oil visit Bob.
Check out the Forums. There's a section on motorcycle oil.

 

[Professor]

100 people will give you 100 different opinions. If you want to really blow your mind on the topic of oil visit Bob.
Check out the Forums. There's a section on motorcycle oil.

+1 On Bob. And +1 on using a motorcycle specific oil. How many miles do you ride in a year? How many oil changes? Most change it once or twice a year max. Is saving $20-$25 by not using something like Mobil 1 MX4T worth the risk to you. It is not worth it to me.

 

[drumminman]

You can't go wrong with most of the synthetics. Lots of folks report good results with Mobil 15W50 which is made for cars. But it has a good additive package similar to many of the bike specific oils.

Personally I like the ester based synthetics. I just switched to Maxima 4 extra 15W50 from Amsoil 10W40 (made primarily with PAO base stocks) and the difference is noticeable. The engine seems smoother everywhere from idle to running up through the gears. Shifting seems a little smoother as well.

There's no doubt that synthetics handle temperature extremes much better than dino oil.

My 2 cents

 

[JINKSTER]

Point 1. Most wear/damage occurs right at cold start-up...and the heavier the oil the longer it takes to move too everywhere it should be...at cold start-up....and fwiw?...I tried Mobil1 Full Synth Straight 0W for about 1,000 miles with no apparent ill affects...in sunny south florida.

Point 2. Besides it's ultra high lubricity?...Unlike Dino Oils?...Full Synth leaves zero sludge...sludge is created by the residual ash burn-off of organic based dino oils...including "Blends"...Full synth has no organics in it....hence?...zero ash/sludge.

Point 3. Provided proper weight and lubricity ratings are observed?...The only oils that wiil do harm to your engine are those with the words "ENERGY CONSERVING" (typically found in the lower 180 degree section of the round API symbol found on the labels of almost every oil out there...except some of the latest crop of Mobil1 labeling...as if the words "Energy Conserving" are found in that API emblem?...then that oil contains a strong "Friction Fighter" package (which in part is really the lack of zdp/zinc) and will eventually..in short order...especially on a bike as powerful as the busa..cause your clutch to begin slipping and it spirals downward quickly from there...as it glazes itself and burns...game over...time to order up new steels and fibers.

That's all I know and L8R, Bill.

 

[bigoltool]

This is a pretty good read as well.
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/index.html

I switched to Mobil Mx4t and noticed an instant improvement in shifting! Sold!