I'm getting ready to do my first oil change on the Busa (see other thread I started). Are you saying there IS an o-ring on the drain plug? I saw no mention of it in the service manual, but with my past experience with o-rings, I think I'd WANT to replace it with every oil change. It's not exactly expensive and it IS a possible source of leaks.
I'm getting ready to do my first oil change on the Busa (see other thread I started). Are you saying there IS an o-ring on the drain plug? I saw no mention of it in the service manual, but with my past experience with o-rings, I think I'd WANT to replace it with every oil change. It's not exactly expensive and it IS a possible source of leaks.
The only leak you will develope will come from stripping the threads. Lets hope that doesn't happen.
BTW, tightening; clean threads, on your back, insert in pan, finger tight until you can no more. Then, with a 19mm closed end, tighten until the ring and plug 'meet' (this is where you need a certain 'touch') turn down (up) until they bind. Final 'cinch' to end. This is a 'touch' that aluminum DEMANDS.
If you are scared, then use your torque wrench, wench!
Ypu should not be able to turn back with your fingers to untighten.
I NEVER use a torque wrench on my plug. It's all by feel. I know, that it is tightened and not coming off.
Standard suzuki or honda motorcycle oil twice a year or about every 2500-3000 miles. I change the filter whenever i change the oil ---why wouldn't you change the filter every time?
Not a Bad thread to bring back from the dead.
I changed from Dino to Silkolene Pro-4 10W40 Full sunthetic about two months ago. I'll never go back to Dino, this synthetic made the tranny feel like a switch watch, and the motor feels a bit stronger, at least according to my SOTP Dyno. I highly recommend Full Synthetic oils in your bike, it doesn't break down nearly as quick as mineral oils and can withstand a lot more heat and stress before breaking down.
Here is something I noticed on a few of the posts above, folks running 20W50... I was wondering why? The manual recommends 10W40 and the filler cap states only 10W40... What are you hoping to gain by using a heavier oil? A heavier oil is going to loose you some power, and get pretty sluggish on cold morning start ups. Just curious really...
I still need to take mine in for it's first service even though I am at 2300 miles. At ~1000 miles I put in Amsoil full synthetic 10w40 and already have another case waiting in my basement collecting dust for the spring.
I like the idea of going 5000 miles between changes so if I ever do put that on in a season (which hopefully will this coming season), I can without hurting my engine by running broken down oil too long.
I currently go 5000+ miles on my car with Amsoil and send the oil out to be tested regularly to www.blackstone-labs.com and have never had any negative reports come back. I will possibly send it out from the Busa as well just to see what I get for results.
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