not a busa but a 07 gsxr 600 with problems need advice

SkootRRgirl

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I have friend who owns a 2007 gsxr 600 and is girl, needless to say she goes to this one shop who she says the guy never did her wrong before, but she took her bike into his shop to get brakes and came back to pick up the bike and it would not start (working when it went in, not working coming back out). Anyway she has HID's and LED's on her bike, she uses a battery tender to charge the battery when she has used the LED's for extended periods of time. Now she can charge the battery but it completely dies after 30 minutes of riding. Initially the guy at the shop told her before even diagnosing it that it was the stator. Now I suggested that she get new battery as hers is 2 years old maybe more and start the process of elimination. If battery stays charged she's good if not next check the voltage regulator and rectifyer (? are these two things the same), if that doesnt solve the problem then check the stator. As she is on a limited budget we really need to know what the problem could be the cheapest way. CAN ANYONE PLEASE HELP WITH SUGGESTIONS????? Thank you.
 
WOW is there anyone on here that would know how to fix this issue or because its not a busa maybe I should not have posted it on here. Really could use someone's help. Thank you
 
First, disconnect the LEDs. I think the HIDs draw about the same or less power than regular lights. Put a DC voltmeter across the battery. Run the bike. Hopefully, the battery should show at least 12.6V or it is discharging at idle. Run it up to about 3000 rpm or higher and the voltage should go up to about 13.5 volts. If it does this, everything should be ok. If it doesnt, then it is the stator, the voltage regulator, or there battery itself.

Now hook up the LEDs and repeat the tests.

Also repeat the tests after everything is good and heat soaked from running.

Finally, it could just be the battery. First disconnect and clean all the terminals for corrosion with a wire brush. This can keep a battery from charging properly. The battery can also have internal leakage that allows it to discarge without anything else drawing power.

Lots more to check, but those are the basics.
 
I don't think it has anything to do with it not being a busa. I found your suggestions to be spot on. Replace battery first, or take it to an automotive shop and have have them do a load check on it before buying a new one. I just replaced the battery in my truck, the voltage showed ok, but it had no amps to turn even the dash lights on. we will be waiting for a report on if the battery was the problem. :whistle:
 
Definitely test the battery before you buy anything. As.suggested it could have volts but no amps, and could not be taking a charge. I had a battery do the very same thing. My bet is on the battery being bad.

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Keep the thoughts coming guys if the consensus shows its the battery then maybe she will take my advice. Thanks bunches
 
First, disconnect the LEDs. I think the HIDs draw about the same or less power than regular lights. Put a DC voltmeter across the battery. Run the bike. Hopefully, the battery should show at least 12.6V or it is discharging at idle. Run it up to about 3000 rpm or higher and the voltage should go up to about 13.5 volts. If it does this, everything should be ok. If it doesnt, then it is the stator, the voltage regulator, or there battery itself.

Now hook up the LEDs and repeat the tests.

Also repeat the tests after everything is good and heat soaked from running.

Finally, it could just be the battery. First disconnect and clean all the terminals for corrosion with a wire brush. This can keep a battery from charging properly. The battery can also have internal leakage that allows it to discarge without anything else drawing power.

Lots more to check, but those are the basics.

The shop guy did do the DC voltmeter test. The battery at idle was at 10v or 11v I beleive it was. When he did rev to 3000,4000rpm the numbers went down instead of up. This is what she just told me the guy at the shop did so now what do you think it is????
 
She asks: "if it is infact the stator, will replacing the battery and/or getting a new voltage regulator be an added un needed expense"???
 
what I would do is get online and find the suzuki service manual for the bike and follow the instructions for testing the stator, if that checks out move onto the voltage regulator.
 
Do the test on the battery if itis good or not.


Then test it with the voltmeter yourself to see if it's charging while it's running...

If it isn't charging there is a way to test the rectfier to see if it's bad or not. If the rectifier is good you going to have to take a look at the stator and the wiring to it..


There is a way to test the stator without taking it off the bike I followed my repair manual to diagnose my bike and identify the problem..

Do you have the repair manual for that bike it's probably free ... will be a life saverif you have to track the problem down..
 
Do the test on the battery if itis good or not.
There is a way to test the stator without taking it off the bike I followed my repair manual to diagnose my bike and identify the problem..

Just test the resistance on the leads coming off the stator. If one is way off from than the others, one of the phases is fried.
 
thanks everyone I am going to check back in the morning, I have the manual now so we will try all of your suggestions and see what we come up with and once done I will post up what we find to be the problem. Again thanks all of you I knew I could count on you to help!:bowdown::thumbsup::cheerleader:
 
The shop guy did do the DC voltmeter test. The battery at idle was at 10v or 11v I beleive it was. When he did rev to 3000,4000rpm the numbers went down instead of up. This is what she just told me the guy at the shop did so now what do you think it is????
Sounds like the stator to me. You can test the stator before it goes into the voltage regulator. You will need an AC voltmeter and an ohmmeter (just about all 'voltmeters' do both AC and DC + resistance/ohms). The service manual will have details.

Ok, pulled my Busa manual. Probably the same as the GSXR since it's a Suzuki and this part of electrical engineering hasn't changed in about 100 years. Disconnect the stator. There will be three connections, call them A, B, and C. Test each pair (A/B, B/C, C/A) for three tests, should be 0.2 to 0.4 ohms. Chances are one of them is either shorted (zero ohms) or open circuited (very high ohms). Next, start the engine, run to 5000 rpm and check voltage between each pair of terminals. Voltage should be 65 volts or higher.

It sounds like your friend's mechanic has been straight with her. The stator (generator) is an expensive part, something like $250+. You can get them used off ebay for $50 to $100. If you want one with warranty, I have heard good things about "Rick's Stators" over the years
RICKS STATOR GENERATOR SUZUKI GSXR600 GSXR 600 01-03 | eBay
But if her mechanic is doing the work and she expects him to warranty the work, he has to agree to the choice of part.
 
Reread your post. 2007 GSX-R600.
Bike Bandit shows 1066036 (5168408-001) for $243.

Part fits 2006-2007. The one I posted earlier will not fit.

Here's the link for Rick's Motorsports Electics
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/partsearch.php
21-328 New OEM Style Suzuki Stator $ 160.00

But again, if the mechanic is doing the work, he(or she :)) has to choose if you expect a warranty. It could still be the rectifier as well.

Also, good chance the battery is toast if this has been going on a while. :(
 
Rectifier/Regulator is a very very common problem on that year bike. Sounds like a stator if the voltage goes down when revved
 
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