NOS LAYOUT

Man can you repeat that and come do my bike...
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Dude, that is sweet! I wouldn't want to be the squid on a 14 that thinks he is gonna roll on a stock busa! I am already laughing just thinking about it!
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I used two small purge hoses,drilled tiny holes on either side of tailight (eurotail)thru the plastic,secured with epoxy on inside.I like your idea for the stock look,im too far beyond stock to go that route.but you did an awesome job
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Last component installed. Bottle heater snuck in there just fine. Wanna thank GoldenChild, SmithaBusa and the org for the products and all the help and information on making my setup possible.

Had to change up the circuit again, this should do it. Turned out that first gear nitrous disablement relay needed a switched power source as it was picking up a ground within the nos circuit (when system was disabled) causing the first LED on the launch,gear&shift indicator to always stay illuminated. If the system was armed it functioned normally. All I needed to do is just break off the first gear disablement relay from the switched power source of the nitrous circuit and give it tail light power. All is good. Outstanding Tech support on solving this issue; could'nt asked for better. Thanks Greg!!

Dry run test next (no bottle) to ensure rpm window switches and autoshift settings "jive". RPM window switch for nitrous = 6K through 10200K. Autoshift set @ 10800K. Then its off to the tuner. Come on summer!!
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Auto-Pressure selenoid wrapped with the soft side of velcro and fitted inline of the union.

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Bottle warmer tied into nitrous circuit so that when the system is armed, the warmer is on. AutoPressure selenoid is set to keep pressure at 950psi.

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Closer of the back of the tail light with LED purge. I picked up a complete tail light assembly from fee bay a couple months back for my switchback led mod, so i used its parts to complete this install, gromet and lense. (Just incase I screwed up..lol)

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Dry Run = **SUCCESS** Thanks Daniel for the how to!! Think I'm feeling a Knoxville trip coming on tomarrow!!!! 70 degrees.

Decided to mount jet in right ram air tube, do not plan to go any bigger than a 36 jet so the SprayBar I thought would be overkill. (We'll save that kit for the PROS)

Lessons learned:
Feed selenoids direct battery power. (Thanks Commuta)
AN fittings do not require tephlon tape. Check connections for leaks w/ spray bottle full of soap and water. If it bubbles you got leaks. After purchasing a couple replacement swivel fittings, I fianlly passed the bubble test. Big thanks to Chevelle for that valuable insight amoungst others.

To Dos:
1) Get tuned
2) In the market for a 15lb refill bottle. I'm hearing that a scuba tank will also serve this purpose, true? Going to the performance shop with a 2lbr will get old quick.
2) Digital bottle gauge visible whilst riding. I'm hearing rumors of a HeadsUpDisplay that may be coming out that can display this info inside your helmet sheild along with other data?
3) Lower front and back (I'm thinking 1", (still researching))
4) 2" Stretch

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My cockpit.   A 1999 or 2000' 220mph cluster would do the trick i thinky...(some day..lol..)
Got this on my first fillup the other day.
Hey.....whats that??.. Thats' my customized radar detector...
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Gotta go...

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