New Lowering Tree Scratched Panel!

YtseJam

Registered
After reading many threads as to lowering the front with spacers or a new tree, I went with the latter. After installing it and adjusting the forks just right, I noticed that the throttle adjusting screw was coming in contact with the lower dash panel when I made a tight turn and left a scratch. Has anybody had this problem and if so, how did you fix it without buying another tree? Naturally...I'm assuming the worst and having to buy yet another tree. Which ones have you guys used that you know don't make contact. BTW, I also installed a spacer to lift the tree a little, it helped but didn't solve it. I'll take a pic here shortly....
 
:rulez:

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Tried that..I rotated the controls, but they still made contact in some way. Can't slide the bars up either because of the set screws...
 
If you look under the nut, you may be able to see some spacers that I used to raise the tree. You may also see I'm out of threads, so that's as high as I can go.
 
Notice my above post? I did...can't go up anymore. There's not enough thread to screw the nut on if I put yet another spacer on it.
 
I did not use that tree, I had no problems with mine with clearance I lowered it 1 inch.What year is it? Mine was an 06 didn't run into this problem I bought a tree from Roaring Toyz. Sorry forgot about the big bolt. this was not an issue with mine maybe someone with that same tree will chime in with asis....
 
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I did not use that tree, I had no problems with mine with clearance I lowered it 1 inch.What year is it? Mine was an 06 didn't run into this problem I bought a tree from Roaring Toyz. Sorry forgot about the big bolt. this was not an issue with mine maybe someone with that same tree will chime in with asis....

No problem....mines an 06 as well. I know it's not a Roaring Toyz, wish it was now!
 
This is how mine ended up after the 1 inch slide down the forks. I could have gone down a lot more but was worried about my nose hitting the fender. Pic is hard to see on yours are the handle bars flushed with the tree? or slightly elevated like in my pic? forgot to ask what tree is that? and have you contacted the manufacturer of it for product support.
 

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Looks like something like Heli-bars is going to be your only choice. most people just buy a new top clamp type. no matter what height you go with your bars are going to be that close to the panels. Price of heli-bars you might be able to buy a new clamp.
 
Kind of hard to see...my forks aren't flush with the trees like yours. And of course the dealer says he's never had a problem.

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Looks like something like Heli-bars is going to be your only choice. most people just buy a new top clamp type. no matter what height you go with your bars are going to be that close to the panels. Price of heli-bars you might be able to buy a new clamp.


At the risk of sounding ignorant, what are heli-bars? I'm thinking maybe the bar mounts on the tree are too close to being flush.
 
I have a different clamp, but the principle is the same. The distance between the clamp and the body work is always the same, it's fixed. I have at least a 1/2" gap where your cables are rubbing. Try loosening the clamp that holds your handlebar and rotating them up a little. It's a tight squeeze getting clearance on the bottom AND the top, but it should be posssible...at least it is with my PM unit. The main issue with lowering trees is that the handlebar moves a little forward so it will clear the fork. Depending on the design of the clamp, some move forward farther than others. If you can't get them to rotate, which might be the case, there might be a pin in there, you will need to loosen the clamps holding the brakes to the bar, this may give you some adjustment as well. Basically you need to figure out how to rotate the whole assembly. Then you need to check full lock to lock to make sure nothing else is hitting.

Helibars and the like are handlebars that mount in the same clamp, but after that point, they either bend or have a jog in them so as to move them up or bring them back depending on operator preference.
 
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a fix would be to add a nother spanner nut under youre tree that would raise it up a 3/16 of an inch, but it looks like they should of trid one before doing a production run
 
I have a different clamp, but the principle is the same. The distance between the clamp and the body work is always the same, it's fixed. I have at least a 1/2" gap where your cables are rubbing. Try loosening the clamp that holds your handlebar and rotating them up a little. It's a tight squeeze getting clearance on the bottom AND the top, but it should be posssible...at least it is with my PM unit. The main issue with lowering trees is that the handlebar moves a little forward so it will clear the fork. Depending on the design of the clamp, some move forward farther than others. If you can't get them to rotate, which might be the case, there might be a pin in there, you will need to loosen the clamps holding the brakes to the bar, this may give you some adjustment as well. Basically you need to figure out how to rotate the whole assembly. Then you need to check full lock to lock to make sure nothing else is hitting.

Helibars and the like are handlebars that mount in the same clamp, but after that point, they either bend or have a jog in them so as to move them up or bring them back depending on operator preference.

Thanks for the info....It's been a while since I installed the tree, but don't the bars have a set screw hole in them so they can't be turned?
 
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