I should introduce my self first, my name is Geoff Fear, i live in ct, and i bought my first busa today, i think i got a good deal on it, it's a 2002 leftover, blue and black for 9200 out the door, taxes freight and all. i have been riding for a few years and i have about 75k miles on a bike in the last 5 years, i have had one bad accident last year that laid me up for months, but i bought another tl1000r the beginning of this season(my third tl) and after i rode my friends busa this weekend, i ran out and bought me one. now for my questions, is it true these things run best on 89 octane fuel? and whats the best break in method? i have been lurking on the board for a week or so now, and it seems great, i look forward to posting and helping,g
MY NEW BUSA!
- Thread starter fear
- Start date
Welcome to the board fear.
I've found that mine runs best on Chevron 92 or 94 but alot of the guys on the board are runnin 89 and are very happy with it.
Find out what yer bike runs best on in yer neck of the woods and stick with it.
I've found that mine runs best on Chevron 92 or 94 but alot of the guys on the board are runnin 89 and are very happy with it.
Find out what yer bike runs best on in yer neck of the woods and stick with it.
Welcome to the board.
Some will say you should follow the break-in procedure in the manual. Here's another theory on the subject.
Break-in Secrets
I tend to lean toward the break-in suggestions posted at the above link. Seems all of the new Stangs, Camaros and the Trans Am I owned responded well to similar treatment. I left the dealership sideways in most all of my factory hot rods. The ones I broke in hard seemed to run cleaner, smoother and stronger and used less oil in the process.
Some of the first few miles on the 1998 Trans Am were on the way to the Atlanta Dragway to run some quarter mile time trials. She screamed like a biotch the entire time I had 'er and pulled better numbers on the Dyno than any other stock LS1 powered TA or Camaro that the dyno guy had seen. He said my TA was pulling numbers on par with most Vette LS1s.
I rolled hard on the busa throttle several times on the way home from the dealer. Had I not been so nervous about dropping 'er (my first crotch rocket, new tires, road damp in areas) I would have ran 'er even harder than I did. While I haven't redlined 'er or actually went full throttle yet, I do give her a wringin' out at almost full throttle up to around 8000 rpm each time I ride 'er.
I only have 102 miles on 'er so far so she's basically still breakin' in. Next ride I'll get 'er on up closer to redline under load. I might even twist the throttle til it stops... on a long straight section of road, of course.
Hmmm... I don't guess I really helped you much, other than offering up the options so you can decide for yourself which theory you will follow.
Some will say you should follow the break-in procedure in the manual. Here's another theory on the subject.
Break-in Secrets
I tend to lean toward the break-in suggestions posted at the above link. Seems all of the new Stangs, Camaros and the Trans Am I owned responded well to similar treatment. I left the dealership sideways in most all of my factory hot rods. The ones I broke in hard seemed to run cleaner, smoother and stronger and used less oil in the process.
Some of the first few miles on the 1998 Trans Am were on the way to the Atlanta Dragway to run some quarter mile time trials. She screamed like a biotch the entire time I had 'er and pulled better numbers on the Dyno than any other stock LS1 powered TA or Camaro that the dyno guy had seen. He said my TA was pulling numbers on par with most Vette LS1s.
I rolled hard on the busa throttle several times on the way home from the dealer. Had I not been so nervous about dropping 'er (my first crotch rocket, new tires, road damp in areas) I would have ran 'er even harder than I did. While I haven't redlined 'er or actually went full throttle yet, I do give her a wringin' out at almost full throttle up to around 8000 rpm each time I ride 'er.
I only have 102 miles on 'er so far so she's basically still breakin' in. Next ride I'll get 'er on up closer to redline under load. I might even twist the throttle til it stops... on a long straight section of road, of course.
Hmmm... I don't guess I really helped you much, other than offering up the options so you can decide for yourself which theory you will follow.
Oh yeah... If you decide to follow the "break it in like you hate it" theory, PLEASE allow 'er to warm up to full operating temperature before you roll hard on 'er. I'm a firm believer in warming the parts and the oil thoroughly before flogging an engine. Apparently the guy at the link I posted also agrees, for whatever it's worth.
Welcome Fear,
The owners Manual recommends 89 as a minimum. There are lots of folks on the board that offer very compelling reasons to do so. However I have tried a few tanks of both, and I really have not found any difference so I run 93-94 Premium Unleaded. I know that most of your Premium and Super Premium unleaded fuels have higher concentrations of detergents and anti-knock compounds added so I feel it offers a little tiny bit of insurance. But Try them all then make a decision.
Break in...I still believe that professional Factory Suzuki Engineers probably know more about the motor and what is best for it than some dude and his website. But at the same time, I have heard positive comments about the "Hammer it in" break in method. My only advice is to change your oil at about the 50-100 mile mark either way, then again at your initial service. Keep that motor clean.
Just my .02.
The owners Manual recommends 89 as a minimum. There are lots of folks on the board that offer very compelling reasons to do so. However I have tried a few tanks of both, and I really have not found any difference so I run 93-94 Premium Unleaded. I know that most of your Premium and Super Premium unleaded fuels have higher concentrations of detergents and anti-knock compounds added so I feel it offers a little tiny bit of insurance. But Try them all then make a decision.
Break in...I still believe that professional Factory Suzuki Engineers probably know more about the motor and what is best for it than some dude and his website. But at the same time, I have heard positive comments about the "Hammer it in" break in method. My only advice is to change your oil at about the 50-100 mile mark either way, then again at your initial service. Keep that motor clean.
Just my .02.
Hey Rev... Do you think that Suzuki's Attorneys would allow them to put anything in the Owners Manual about flogging the bike hard at any time regardless of how it might affect break-in? Do race teams break-in new motors by babying them for 500 miles or so?
I respect your decisions and opinion but I still say that a bike, car, boat whatever... should be driven the same during break-in as you plan to drive it after you consider it broke in. I've had good experiences with vehicles and bikes broken in that way and just haven't seen technical data that backs up babying a motor to begin with. The drive it off the lot like you hate it theory just makes better sense to me than any other theory I've read. Your mileage may vary...
I respect your decisions and opinion but I still say that a bike, car, boat whatever... should be driven the same during break-in as you plan to drive it after you consider it broke in. I've had good experiences with vehicles and bikes broken in that way and just haven't seen technical data that backs up babying a motor to begin with. The drive it off the lot like you hate it theory just makes better sense to me than any other theory I've read. Your mileage may vary...
You May have a point regarding the lawyers, but I am just skeptical about anything I read online. I dunno, mostly if I had read about the Grip it 'N' Rip it break in method somewhere else as well, or if there was some "real" data out there supporting this method I would be more sold on it. Your point about race teams is somewhat valid though when we are talking about motors that only have to last a weekend I dunno if it applies. I am not an expert, but I did sleep at a Holiday In Express last night! Seriously though, if I saw or read something by an engine expert recommending this procedure then I would be sold.Hey Rev... Do you think that Suzuki's Attorneys would allow them to put anything in the Owners Manual about flogging the bike hard at any time regardless of how it might affect break-in? Do race teams break-in new motors by babying them for 500 miles or so?
I respect your decisions and opinion but I still say that a bike, car, boat whatever... should be driven the same during break-in as you plan to drive it after you consider it broke in. I've had good experiences with vehicles and bikes broken in that way and just haven't seen technical data that backs up babying a motor to begin with. The drive it off the lot like you hate it theory just makes better sense to me than any other theory I've read. Your mileage may vary...
Personally I ran it up to redline a few times early on, avoided riding at a steady RPM for any amount of time and otherwise followed the recommended procedure. So No I didn't really follow the recommended break in to the letter, though I used it as a bit of a guidline.
So basically we both have our opinions...Yours is just wrong.
Just playing...
LongbowIP
Registered
I know that I cannot compare my new Busa to the BMW I just sold but, In the manual it stated basically the same type of breakin. The dealer told be to ride it like I stole it. Thats what I did and she was one of the smoothist BMW's out there.
My question is that the statement of not keeping the RPM's at a constant setting. How long is to long? 1 or 2 miles? How much of a change in RPM's must it be? Will changing gears suffice if trying to keep a constant speed?
Sorry for the Hijack, Thought that we both could benefit from the information.
Oh by the way welcome to the board.
Tony
My question is that the statement of not keeping the RPM's at a constant setting. How long is to long? 1 or 2 miles? How much of a change in RPM's must it be? Will changing gears suffice if trying to keep a constant speed?
Sorry for the Hijack, Thought that we both could benefit from the information.
Oh by the way welcome to the board.
Tony
Similar threads
