My bike (Gen I) was mapped tonight....

busa_black

busa_black

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I am supposed to pick it up tomorrow with the NEW map. Here are the dyno results from yesterday with the downloaded Dynojet map. The bike has stock gearing, small box mod, PAIR valve mod, and Muzzy Full Titanium. I will post the new results tomorrow. I'm hoping for 7-10 more HP.. :please:
 
Goatkart said:
WTH, they gave you uncorrected results....


shady dyno operator....


strong looking busa though, gratz
Click to expand...

Is this what you mean?


Corrected vs. Uncorrected Engine Dyno Results

The above topic would require an entire book to thoroughly explain the differences in quoted horsepower readings. Dyno Testing and Tuning by Bettes and Hancock is recommended. The short version follows.

On an engine dynamometer, measuring the torque, TQ in ft-lbs, and engine rotational speed, RPM, allows us to calculate the “observed” horsepower using the equation:

HP= (TQ x RPM)/5250

That may be all we want to know. However if we want to compare our results with measurements made on a different day under different atmospheric conditions (assuming the dyno and engine are identical) then we have to “correct” our “observed” numbers to some “standard” conditions using accepted standard techniques. The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has provided several specifications to do this. One of the oldest and most commonly used SAE specifications is J607. J607 provides formulas to correct our observed readings to what we would have observed if out tests were conducted at a temperature of 60F, a pressure of 29.92 in.Hg and dry air.

As an example, suppose we observed 100 HP on our dyno when the ambient temperature was 75F, the pressure was 29.4 in.Hg and the relative humidity was 40%. Using the formulas in J607, we would find that the atmospheric correction factor is about 1.05 . The corrected HP is then the observed number times the correction factor or 100 x 1.05 = 105 HP. This is a reasonable estimate of what we might have observed if we had conducted our test at the standard conditions.

To compare dyno results we must know the test conditions and correct the readings to the same standard conditions. Also, because different dyno manufacturers have different ways of correcting for dyno internal losses and inertia, really comparable tests should be run on the same dyno.
 
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uncorrected numbers can't be compared equally, its entirely possible to use them to exagerate claimed gains... if one day was a little hot, and the other day a little cold, ambient pressure shifted, humidity, etc etc....


basically, they are uncomparable, because they arent normalised to any values....

SAE, STD, DIN, etc. are all standards, where the dyno graph is corrected to a specific temperature, humidity, and pressure...

basically, if you cant dyno under the same conditions, you can at least adjust the dyno numbers to close to those conditions to maintain repetability...

it doesnt mean your bike didnt make those numbers... it did... what it does mean is you dont really have a before and after... because uncorrected you dont know if one day was a good air day, or a bad air day....

its what compensates for when you dyno at 30 degrees, and dyno at 100 degrees, or different pressures, or different humidity... all of it has significant impacts in power output...

hope that makes sense?
 
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yeah I understand. corrected means it compensates for variables. do you think I should have it mapped again somewhere else? is it possible that this is someone else's map? He did say that he saves every custom map that he makes.
 
Don't get caught up in dyno numbers, they are simply a tool. There are many ways to make a dyno read whatever numbers the operator wants it to. Your bike should run more smoothly, and have added power throughout the rpm range. Ask him for a graph that shows your a/f ratio throughout the dyno run. Peak horsepower readings are good only for bragging rights, and there is always someone with more money than you.....
 
geesosa73 said:
yeah I understand. corrected means it compensates for variables. do you think I should have it mapped again somewhere else? is it possible that this is someone else's map? He did say that he saves every custom map that he makes.
Click to expand...

my comment only is in reference to the dyno chart... it has no bearings on your map etc...


it only relates to the ability to look at the dyno numbers, and make an apples to apples comparo from before and after..


assuming your map was done by someone compitent... it should be fine...


again, only in regards to the dyno run and its comparo, it has no impact on your map etc...
 
Thanks for the explaination and responses. I was concerned because I TRUST the shop that did the work. Having trust issues with your shop is a very uncomfortable feeling. Thanks again. :beerchug:
 
Put your PAIR Valve back on and you will pick up 2 HP. People keep taking these guys off and do not realize they are losing HP. The PAIR valve releases crankcase pressure.
 
geesosa73 said:
yeah I understand. corrected means it compensates for variables. do you think I should have it mapped again somewhere else? is it possible that this is someone else's map? He did say that he saves every custom map that he makes.
Click to expand...

no just with a click of a mouse the operator can put the both in corrected and show what is real.
I did an FZ1 it was like 38 degrees out it made 5 more poines in uncorrected than corrected
if it was 98 degrees the uncorrected would be 5 less than corrected
not apples to apples
 
Johnnycheese said:
no just with a click of a mouse the operator can put the both in corrected and show what is real.
I did an FZ1 it was like 38 degrees out it made 5 more poines in uncorrected than corrected
if it was 98 degrees the uncorrected would be 5 less than corrected
not apples to apples
Click to expand...

Okay so do I need to take it back and the bike run again using a corrected dyno instead of uncorrected. I'm confused. I just need to know if I need to take it back or have someone else do it.
Posted via Mobile Device
 
geesosa73 said:
Okay so do I need to take it back and the bike run again using a corrected dyno instead of uncorrected. I'm confused. I just need to know if I need to take it back or have someone else do it.
Posted via Mobile Device
Click to expand...

hahahha no no no no.... your taking what was said and worrying yourself to death about it....


everything that was done to your bike is fine.... drive it, love it...


we are just picking apart your dyno chart, that is all...

you dont really need to understand why we are picking the chart apart... its irrelevant to the work that was done more or less...



rest your head.. enjoy your ride :thumbsup:
 
LOL!! Thanx

Goatkart said:
hahahha no no no no.... your taking what was said and worrying yourself to death about it....


everything that was done to your bike is fine.... drive it, love it...


we are just picking apart your dyno chart, that is all...

you dont really need to understand why we are picking the chart apart... its irrelevant to the work that was done more or less...



rest your head.. enjoy your ride :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Posted via Mobile Device
 
geesosa73 said:
Okay so do I need to take it back and the bike run again using a corrected dyno instead of uncorrected. I'm confused. I just need to know if I need to take it back or have someone else do it.
Posted via Mobile Device
Click to expand...
no you do not have to take the bike back you just need to walk in and say you want both runs that are uncorrected corrected so you can see apples to apples.
 
Well here are the CORRECTED results. I rode yesterday in the frozen tundra of NJ, and it felt stronger to me. I don't take my bike to the drag strip (even though I would like to attend a track day @ NJMP) and I don't race for money. I just ride with my friends. I want 170hp because these liter bikes are in it to win it, but I'm not going into the motor. Any suggestions for a few more ponies??

ImageShack Links Do Not Work
 
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