lockup clutch question/problem

[DStroyer]

I installed my lockup over the winter, and Ive been trying to get this thing right over the last 2 weeks. Here is my problem. This thing hits HHAARRRRDDD. Anything over a 4500 rpm launch, and it hits hard enough to wreck parts. Some may know, this is in an atv frame. ive busted 2 axles in the last 2 weeks, and now it took out a portion of my bottom cases. I havent had a chance to tear into it, to find out exactly whats broken, it just happened this morning. The motor is terribly strong, and sounds fantastic. I just cant launch this thing with the lockup in it. At this point, I would rather live with the slipping clutches than worry about breaking things on every trip down the track. (by the way, we race in the sand).

So, my question is, am I missing something with this thing? Its an MRE, and is spaced exactly at 1/8" off the pressure plate. I have the screw with nut, and 3 washers on each. Im still using the stock center hub in the clutch. Is this supposed to be replaced with a solid one? Please shed some light on this, the concept sounds so simple, but the damage is ridiculous!!!

Thanks in advance,
Gary

[Mr Bogus]

aww the joys of racing.... step up one part, the next weakest link breaks..

Not sure about setup but to "soften" the hit on our 6 disk units we close the gap on the pack, and put more weight on our primary fingers (they keep the motor from spooling as high on the hit)

If you are breaking axles, I would be looking at a better axle myself... the harder you can come off the line, the better your times will be..(well as long as you can still control the thing)

[cdhoroho]

you need the one piece center and which springs are you running
the stock center will ratched together and cause it to grab way to fast
replace that piece first then see where you are
if still a little hard on the release then lighten the springs a tad

[DStroyer]

I will order the center tomorrow. Any chance the output shaft will need reinforcment? Will that be the next weak point?? The axle is never going to break again, Im sure of that. LOL

Any more advice out there, on other areas that could be part of the problem, I do appreciate the fast replies!!!

gary

[DStroyer]

cdhoroho,
Could you explain the ratched together thing? Im not really clear on what that piece does in the first place, nor what Im looking for it to do with a single piece.

Mr.bogus,
Are you saying I should make the distance between the pressure plate and the fingers on the lockup, less than 1/8 inch like they recommended? I thought it needed that distance for plate separation.
Thanks,
Gary

[cdhoroho]

the center is designed to pull tighter on the clutch with more power
and they tighten up fairly fast when releasing the clutch
trust me change it and youll see a difference

you can have the stock one welded and that will do the same (mine is welded)

id follow recomended settings on the lockup but change the center
the arms are more for when moving
your springs do the initial work
the arms are for 60' and further down the track

[Mr Bogus]

If they say to put it at .125 inch then that is where it belongs...

[DStroyer]

mr.Bogus,
What do you mean by "closing the gap on the pack"? I thought you were referring to the gap between the pressure plate and the lockup fingers. Can you explain. Thanks,
Also, Ive searched for some info on welding the center. I couldnt find wether its welded while its pushed inwards, or pulled outwards.

Thanks,
Gary

[Mr Bogus]

The following is just my opinion..

(99.9% of racing is your opinion vs theirs)

Do stick with the baseline that the clutch maker gave you (note it is a baseline) until you get the rest of the drive train sorted out.. (they normally know what works best to start out)

Changing 3 or 4 things at one time can be a real hassle when issues arise.. After you get the other issues figured out, then you can start "tuning" the clutch and see what differences occur. (KEEP GOOD RECORDS of changes and track conditions)

pack clearances are "splitting hairs" in the grand scheme of lockup clutches and probably should not have been mentioned here.. (way ahead of myself) You will need to get the springs, weights and arms figured out already, no point in making your life more difficult...

[Professor]

Gary,

The output shaft is a week link for slick/bar drag or hige hp bikes as well as car conversions. Most end up going to a 30mm aftermarket unit. It must be a problem as Suzuki made it bigger in 08. There are some bearing support kits built but I don't remeber seeing one myself. I know Kossman makes one. Schnitz carries one, it may be the Kossman.

Rick

[OZBooster]

+1 for replacing the std 2 piece center , you effectively have 2lockup clutches in operation both working differently.
If your going to weld it yourself make a jig to hold it centred and square.
HD springs didn't work ? i know several guys running busa powered cars and hillclimb vehicles (supercharged) that have no probs with the "turbo" clutch springs

[DStroyer]

I tried the heavy springs first. 3 initially, then all six. I still kept burning the clutches up. Although, within another topic, I learned I shouldnt have been using the clutch to shift while racing, and that very likely was the reason the clutches were going. I bought this lockup, and thought, since I spent the money, lets try it. To be honest, I think im going to back this thing down to the basics again, just to bring some fun back to my sport. Not much fun at the moment!! By basics, I mean 6 lbs of boost, 3 heavy springs, and without the lockup.. I could really use some plain ole riding to breath life back into my hobby if you know what I mean.

The wife should be happy with this decision also!!

Thanks again for the replies folks. Once again, I truely believe this is the only informative website left on the net!!!!!!!!!