Lightest and best brake rotors.
- Thread starter bigboy
- Start date
Wellllll I'm doing both. Will be off to carpenter racing in a few days for 1441 package. Now I'm eyeballing sicoma rotors for $3000 dollars FAAAACK. I have to have them
Hahahaha!
shade
Registered
If you're considering rotors at that cost and carpenter stuff....why not turbo instead of a fat pig of a motor
I considered it thoroughly. I don't like the added weight and I wanted a more linear power delivery. Plus any more power would be overkill for me. I don't drag race I do extended highway point to point. I just wanted enough to stay current with New liter bikes.
Straight Carbon? If so they only are effective at certain Temps correct?
@ROADTOAD1340 will help you with what direction to spend your money.....he's the connoisseur of such things....
I have EBC rotors on mine that are lighter than stock
I have EBC rotors on mine that are lighter than stock
Yeah i message him from time to time. Definitely modeling my build after his
He's a good one for that, he only goes for the best of the best....
michael parris heuberger
Registered
Hi. They may not work well on the street because they need a lot of heat. I bought Braking rotots all Ti bolts even Ti brake pistons 14 of them all in my Beranger brakes masters clutch & brakes I do use the stock rear master.
Yeah I was worried about that. So this is what they said about the sicoma ceramic disk...
"High coefficient of friction for instant bite - even when wet and cold (unlike Carbon discs which only operate at race temperatures)"
I'll keep doing my research and make sure tho
As you're trying to lose every ounce, I remembered that there is plastic that can be trimmed out out the seat cowl's mounting plate.
And, if you havn't relocated the regulator/rectifier to inside the tail/side of the subframe, that you lose the weight of the mounting bracket under the shock.
There is a new bracket for under the tail, but you don't need it.
The reg/rec can get mounted with bolts or ties to the side of the black plastic inner fender.
That could save you a couple of ounces, and help you to reach the next pound, lol.
As for the best and lightest rotors, of course that's a question for the old Toad.
And, if you havn't relocated the regulator/rectifier to inside the tail/side of the subframe, that you lose the weight of the mounting bracket under the shock.
There is a new bracket for under the tail, but you don't need it.
The reg/rec can get mounted with bolts or ties to the side of the black plastic inner fender.
That could save you a couple of ounces, and help you to reach the next pound, lol.
As for the best and lightest rotors, of course that's a question for the old Toad.
Isn't that holding the belly wing together. I hear the belly wing effects wind resistance at high speeds? And I like the look. Is there a way I can get rid of the bracket but keep the wing stable?
I don't remember right off, as its been a long time.
I know the bellywing needs a bracket, but I remember that there were a few ounces to be lost.
I need to get into my old laptop where all of my old pictures are.
There are bolts on either side of the lower wing and it slips into a tab in the side fairings....as far as I saw there were no fasteners from the rectifier bracket to the lower air wing...
So I'm not crazy!
...at least in regards to this, lol
Many years and bikes later, I find some mods a little hard to recall sometimes...
lol
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